I have posted many threads about different problems ive been having individually, and have gotten me off track. So here is the problems im experiencing..

-Car hard to start after SITTING (it starts fine cold if i get it started, shut it off immediately, then start it again).

-After starting it shoots TONS of blue smoke and reaks of gasoline. (burns my eyes when i stand behind it)

-Turbocharger is visably moist with oil on the hot side after starting, and
continues to smoke while warm.

-Backfires a ton while cold when attempting to give heavy throttle.

-Runs very rough untill it gets warm, even then it hesitates upon throttle change.

-Constantly emits smoke while running, even while warm. Continues reaking of fuel.

-Turbo starts to make an odd "throaty" sound about 2 minutes after starting. BEFORE, it boosts great and releases a nice spray from the BOV. AFTER, it is harder to boost and creates a wimpy spray from BOV.

THINGS IVE TESTED/DONE ALREADY:

-Compression test good
-TPS adjustment done
-Re-gasketed intake system/ checked for air leaks using starting fluid. no leaks, at least no major ones
-Spark is good, have new plugs
-New s5 turbo/manifold with new gaskets

If it werent for these problems id have a perfect car (lol). SOrry for long post, but i need some help guys! Its easier when its all compiled together...

THANKS

 

sounds like leaking injectors and an oil leak.

 

Where would oil leak from that would end up on top of the turbo hotside/downpipe? Is there a way i can test if my injectors are leaking?

 

Sounds like a bunch of (bad) things. Poor compression, bad oil seals on the turbo, might be in a "limp" mode (check for codes).

 

Compression checks out (3 STRONG even puffs from the leading hole). The turbo is s5 and was just rebuilt and never used untill now. My s4 turbo was having this problem, thus i got the s5 but the problem still exists.

 

Definately sounds like super clogged injectors. As for the blue smoke, it could be bad oil control rings. The other usual cause is bad turbo seals, but its sounds like they are new. The oil on the ouside of the turbo could be from some other random oil line. Check all of the lines in the area to see if any are leaking.

 

Whatever it is it only leaks when oil is running through it. Theres no signs or drips anywhere, and unfortunately the turbo burns off any oil on it. Im guessing its the return line. Is there a place that sells them cheap or will i have to get one used?

Clogged injectors could cause it to reak of fuel?

 

Just checked my voltages at the ecu, everything checks out... but the injectors read a little high. At idle my secondaries read about 13.7 volts, and primaries about 13.1. Would that cause me flooding problems? It says they're supposed to see 12

 

You should do an actual compression test, and post your numbers, in PSI. I'm saying this because even 3 even wooshes could still mean you might only have 70 PSI. It's hard to tell just by listening.

 

Three strong puffs???

That is not a compression check.

compression check uses a compression gauge, or rotary compression checker.

It does not just look at a "puff"

Hell my daughters toy stuff animal has three strong puffs...

 

You trying to help me with comments like that? Given i had a REAL compression test done about 2 months ago (94,94,94) and the car hasnt been driven much since, the 3 strong puffs comment was to convey that the seals were all still uniform.

Lets just leave it at the motor has good compression. What else can it be

 

well 94 is just above rebuilding...what is it today? 94 is not at all what would be considered stronge compression. 120 would be strong compression. Hell even 115 might be considered okay compression

And my point with the "puffs" is just that. A puff tells you about as much as a burp from your stomache does and really tells you nothing about your motor other than you have not lost a apex seal.

and is this the same car that the coolant buzzer or oil level buzzer is going off???

 

So as of two months ago my numbers were 94,94,94. I dont have the tools to check it as of today, but the car was MAYBE driven 2 miles since then. Its been chilling while im fixing it up

 

Assuming it still has good compression (i will check that again soon), what is the next most likely culprit? How about the injectors seeing 13.7 volts?

 

With the car running the injectors should be seeing at least 13.5 volts, but will run with as little as 9 volts.

So, I am not getting what you are asking...

 

Off topic, why does the haynes manual say 85psi limit for compression? or is that minimum limit i suppose?

 

The FSM says the injectors should see 12v with the key set to ON, and while at idle. I saw about 13.7 on my secndaries when the car was at idle, so i didnt know if that would cause complications? Maybe making my car run rich? I have limited knowledge about FI, so if you know of any great pages please post.

 

Yep, that is absolute minimum compression to run. I have seen motors runbning with less, but they are on their last legs and need rebuilding badly.

So you can see that compression not even 10 PSI above that would be barely any compression, well alone "strong" compression.

 

true

 

Okay, you don't understand at all how it works.

One wire feeding into the injector is 12+ volts. That means that it is hooked up to the ignition system and getting as much voltage as the car can give it. If it is getting less than 12.6 volts, the alternator has failed, so 12 volts would be normally considered the minimum voltage. Normally that wire should have between 12 and 15 volts on it with the car running.

Now the other wire is the wire from the ECU. This wire is a ground, and switches on and off to open or close the injector. When the ECU puts a ground on the wire, it completes the circuit and the injector fires (or turns on). When the ground is removed by the ECU, the spring inside the injector causes the injector to close and no longer squirt fuel. This means the injector is no longer providing gas.

The injectors fire (open- spraying fuel) in a controlled manner specific for the timing and running of the motor. In other words they are not always on. They switch on and off.

 

THanks icemark, the whole system is making alot more sense. So the injectors only fire when they see a ground from the ECU?

 

yep. Only when the ECU puts ground on the wire.

That is why one side of the injectors have a different color wire on each injector (the signal from the ECU) and the other side has the Black/Yellow or Black/white that is the 12+ volt wire.

And IMHO it sounds like you have a leaking oil seal in both the engine and Turbo, and the engine needs rebuilding.

 

So, should i NOT see voltage at the primary injector wires at the ecu while at idle? Because they would be grounded? Maybe theres something im still not getting..

 

No, you should always see voltage on the power side of the injector. You would see ground pulses on the neg side of the injector.

Again, if you have voltage on the injectors, the injectors are not the issue. The ECU controls how long they fire and when.

 

Tried searching, what is/where is the injector coil?