You can make good power with the stock ecu. My old 87 turbo2 made 318rwhp at 10psi. The car had ported motor and t04b, front mount, full 3 inch exhaust, and probably other little things. I had stock primaries and 720 secondaries and a walbro pump. I was running the stock ecu with a marvelspeed FCD and thats it. No afc no nohting like that. I made 318rwhp with the stock ecu. Power is there to be made with the stock ecu, most just dont wanna try in fear of blowing the motor.

 

I just want to get a standalone to get rid of the afm

 

you could run like 12 psi if your motor isnt ported, i dont even have my b/c plugged in and i hit like 15 psi on the stock turbo, i do have an fcon though, i might get my clutch fixed and put it on the dyno just to see what i was making.

 

i took over trinity's set up and ran a little more boost without a ported motor. end result......i'm getting a marvelspeed motor built up with a haltech or something of the sort to run that extra boost.

but if you run prolly no more than 10psi on the turbo, you should be fine for a long while

 

You people are missing the whole point of having a standalone ECU.

Boost, you can do anything you want, with enough piggybacks.

 

whoa that is the coolest sig ever

 

I understand the advantages of standalone, fully. BUT when you are on a tight budget after paying all the $ for the parts involved in a big turbo, and you already have a fuel controller, its easier to continue to drive the car without a standalone than to keep it parked till you can afford one. I will be paying around 1-2000$ for a bigger turbo , and even with wholesale prices the Haltech is still big bucks to a schmoe like me. Plus my wife and I are looking to buy a house in the next couple years, justifying a couple hundred here and there is a lot easier than 1000$ at once on a engine computer! Id be in the doghouse!
I will deal with running low boost for a season or so, then when $ is less tight I will get one(Ihope).

Anyway noone has really pointed out any mechanicaliy specific facts on why it is so hard to pull off succesfully, only posted examples of people. Not really doubting peoples opinions just wanna know what are the exact reasons?

 

the 87 TII i ahve in my garage was a racecar from japan and it had a To4 with 3 inch downpipe, hks manifold and wastegate, also remember a greddy rebic among other things...but after i bought it, the last owner took a lot of those things out...it had a stock ECU and was kicking *** all over town until it was sold to this punk who knew nothing about rx-7s at all...he ran it to the ground.

Fred

 

I understand wanting to save money, hell I am running an s-afc. But if you blow a motor because you didn't go standalone, it beats it out since you have to pay $2,000++ for a new motor. That weighs out to at least pay for a standalone AND tune it. Whatever you end up doing, good luck. Just be careful.

 

Microtech units are only $500, theres almost no reason to pass that up. Ive blown one engine, due to faulty wiring and AFM. They cost me AN ENGINE! After that I vowed not to use the old shitty wiring in the car, and you shouldnt either.

 

Bingo. There are more than a few of us where I live that have decided the only REAL way to make these cars run well is to yank out 99% of the **** Mazda put in. These cars are old, the wiring is old, the ECU technology is old, it's that simple.

I am also looking at the Microtech, seems like a good unit.

 

I'm interested, but I'm looking for manufacturer's/vendor's pages with REAL information on igniton resolution, fuel resolution, CPU clock speed, fuel delivery modes, ignition timing split, etc.

Anyone? Anyone? Beuller?

Brandon

 

keep the thoughts commin, I appreciatte it.

 

something cheap that will work is a used fcon, safc is better and a microtech would be best for your situation.

 

In California....(f'in smog law), I believe the bang for your buck is the Microtech system. If you need to switch back to stock, all you need to do is disconnect the unit.....back to stock.

I would thou like to remove all the chk valves and other smog parts. I am looking into others that can provide a good, inexpensive way to keep in the green zone at all times. Plus retain or add the warm-up cycle (add switch valve to make it seem stock when cold). All systems now adays are very easy to install, using the stock type sensors. The Tec2 on the otherhand is a nightmare.

 

Where can you get a microtech from? Vendor? website?
please tell us

 

http://www.japperformance.com/

 

A-Spec Tuning
21 w. fullerton
Addison, il 60101
(630)543-8890 Fax (630)543-8815
www.a-spectuning.com



Your Friendly Neignborhood Banzai!

 

You COULD get a distributor for a GSL-SE and run a megasquirt ECU. Will cost you about $150 to build one.

Brad

 

nyone know where ther are any wewbsites with specs, and pricing on the Microtech unit? The fact that its only 500$ makes me a bit skeptic.

 

I love it how more and more threads are turning into "buy a microtech"

 

Check the Aussie forum there is a ton of info. Lots of those guys run Microtech with great success.

www.horsepowerinabox.com

 

Dont get the wrong idea about me pal, Im die hard Haltech all the way. I just hear people talking about this good $500 ECU, so I suggested it.

 

ttt

 

how about we rephase that statement so it reads correctly

"Dale Clark was running a T04 and Cartech FMIC, with S-AFC and AIC, and was detonating hard enough to break the dowel pins seats in his S4 motor."


yet another good example of TUNING......