Timing questions with Microtec on 13B Turbo
Timing questions with Microtec on 13B Turbo
I have a 13bT from a TII in my kit car. I am going for a dyno session next week and had a friend look at my map to check a few things and he said that the timing was set wrong on the static map, the cas was stabbed correctly to the white/yellow mark. I thought the 2 marks were 0 and 5 deg, he says they are 5 and 15 but the microtec was set up (at the previous dyno session when the engine blew) for 0 static. He changed it to 5 static when stabbed at the white mark, is this correct or can someone explain to me simple terms what it should be. I have the original pully.
yup, the driver side mark is 5ATDC and the yellow passenger side mark is 20ATDC.
your friend is dumb, plain and simple. adjusting the static timing just adjusts all of your maps forward or back by the amount you put in that spot, basically cheating your maps of a few degrees or adding that to all of them. best fix is to actually time them correctly in the first place or just don't boost at all until you can find a COMPETENT tuner.
timing lock on, the timing marks should line up with the red driver's side mark on the pulley regardless of what your static timing figure is set to, adjust the CAS so that it does while the timing lock is ON.
some people like to pull timing in different ways from the maps, doesn't mean they are incorrect, but always best to be safe than sorry.
your friend is dumb, plain and simple. adjusting the static timing just adjusts all of your maps forward or back by the amount you put in that spot, basically cheating your maps of a few degrees or adding that to all of them. best fix is to actually time them correctly in the first place or just don't boost at all until you can find a COMPETENT tuner.
timing lock on, the timing marks should line up with the red driver's side mark on the pulley regardless of what your static timing figure is set to, adjust the CAS so that it does while the timing lock is ON.
some people like to pull timing in different ways from the maps, doesn't mean they are incorrect, but always best to be safe than sorry.
yup, the driver side mark is 5ATDC and the yellow passenger side mark is 20ATDC.
your friend is dumb, plain and simple. adjusting the static timing just adjusts all of your maps forward or back by the amount you put in that spot, basically cheating your maps of a few degrees or adding that to all of them. best fix is to actually time them correctly in the first place or just don't boost at all until you can find a COMPETENT tuner.
timing lock on, the timing marks should line up with the red driver's side mark on the pulley regardless of what your static timing figure is set to, adjust the CAS so that it does while the timing lock is ON.
some people like to pull timing in different ways from the maps, doesn't mean they are incorrect, but always best to be safe than sorry.
your friend is dumb, plain and simple. adjusting the static timing just adjusts all of your maps forward or back by the amount you put in that spot, basically cheating your maps of a few degrees or adding that to all of them. best fix is to actually time them correctly in the first place or just don't boost at all until you can find a COMPETENT tuner.
timing lock on, the timing marks should line up with the red driver's side mark on the pulley regardless of what your static timing figure is set to, adjust the CAS so that it does while the timing lock is ON.
some people like to pull timing in different ways from the maps, doesn't mean they are incorrect, but always best to be safe than sorry.
Hi, Thanks for the info,
we stabbed the CAS with the timing pin on the red mark and then set the timing on the ecu at 5 as it was set at zero. Is this not right?
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