timing and possible wiring issues??
06-14-10, 12:40 PM
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Rotary Freak
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timing and possible wiring issues??
Hey guys,
I have couple issues with my swap going on right now.
Let me give you a little info about my car.
I had a perfect running and conditioned 88 tII that ended up in an accident that destroyed the body and left the entire drivetrain intact.
I found a donor rolling shell in florida with all kinds of nice goodies on the side.
The donor is an 88 se. I swapped everything, down to the interior.
The issue here became, I kept the large se driverside front harness and wanted to use my remade Tii emission harness due to not getting an NA emission harness with the shell.
So, HAILERS came and dropped a bomb on me, told me how much work it was, but it was possible.
So he was kind enough to help me rewire the harnesses together, 2 years ago in this thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/wiring-problem-718820/page2/
I have a final wiring diagram at work ill post later due to the links in that thead are dead now.
I got the car running and driving for about a year. It was daily driven, till about 9 months ago. When the car was sitting at idle perfectly normally for about 20 minutes, went to move it and it started running on one rotor.
Let the car sit for a few monthes, then figured I'd do a few things to it. I cleaned up my emission harness completely removed and depinned all emission wires and other unused connectors, wired in new injector clips cleaned everything the whole nine. Put the car back together car still runs on one rotor checked all my wiring all checked out well. Narrowed it down to my front rotor not getting any fuel. I had power and ground signal from the ecu. So, replaced my injectors and fuel fliters. Restabbed the CAS car starts and runs normal. Got my timing light and found at idle the CAS has to be turned all the way to lock for the timing to just almost line up. The car seems to runn fairly well there, but I know for a fact it was't there before I originally pulled the CAS. So I thought it was maybe a tooth off. So, I go to turn off the car to recheck the CAS, but the car would not turn off with the key.
I had to pull the EGI fuses to turn off the car.
So I was thinking, last night I came across this stickied thead reguarding a battery draw.
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=44789
Which just so happens I have had a draw on my car since the beginning of it and I am almost positive I wired my car similar to this guy. Ill be more positive, when I get the wiring digram for my car. Do you guys think that this could be a possibility why my car stayed running by itself???
Im just soo confused. I did soo much custom wiring and stuff on this car, now Im all caught up in it. I kno my timing is a seperat issue, but what do you think? Could it be my ECU map that makes the mark further out?? I run PFC with banzai adaptor on a base map by chuck westbrook.
Thanks,
James
I have couple issues with my swap going on right now.
Let me give you a little info about my car.
I had a perfect running and conditioned 88 tII that ended up in an accident that destroyed the body and left the entire drivetrain intact.
I found a donor rolling shell in florida with all kinds of nice goodies on the side.
The donor is an 88 se. I swapped everything, down to the interior.
The issue here became, I kept the large se driverside front harness and wanted to use my remade Tii emission harness due to not getting an NA emission harness with the shell.
So, HAILERS came and dropped a bomb on me, told me how much work it was, but it was possible.
So he was kind enough to help me rewire the harnesses together, 2 years ago in this thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/wiring-problem-718820/page2/
I have a final wiring diagram at work ill post later due to the links in that thead are dead now.
I got the car running and driving for about a year. It was daily driven, till about 9 months ago. When the car was sitting at idle perfectly normally for about 20 minutes, went to move it and it started running on one rotor.
Let the car sit for a few monthes, then figured I'd do a few things to it. I cleaned up my emission harness completely removed and depinned all emission wires and other unused connectors, wired in new injector clips cleaned everything the whole nine. Put the car back together car still runs on one rotor checked all my wiring all checked out well. Narrowed it down to my front rotor not getting any fuel. I had power and ground signal from the ecu. So, replaced my injectors and fuel fliters. Restabbed the CAS car starts and runs normal. Got my timing light and found at idle the CAS has to be turned all the way to lock for the timing to just almost line up. The car seems to runn fairly well there, but I know for a fact it was't there before I originally pulled the CAS. So I thought it was maybe a tooth off. So, I go to turn off the car to recheck the CAS, but the car would not turn off with the key.
I had to pull the EGI fuses to turn off the car.
So I was thinking, last night I came across this stickied thead reguarding a battery draw.
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=44789
Which just so happens I have had a draw on my car since the beginning of it and I am almost positive I wired my car similar to this guy. Ill be more positive, when I get the wiring digram for my car. Do you guys think that this could be a possibility why my car stayed running by itself???
Im just soo confused. I did soo much custom wiring and stuff on this car, now Im all caught up in it. I kno my timing is a seperat issue, but what do you think? Could it be my ECU map that makes the mark further out?? I run PFC with banzai adaptor on a base map by chuck westbrook.
Thanks,
James
06-14-10, 04:16 PM
#2
HAILERS
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Car won't turn off with key OFF? Several possibilities. One is the two small wires on the alt are crossed. Pull that small plug and see if the key to OFF now causes the car to die as it should.
The other is that some set of elect plugs are NOT connected to their right places and that is causing the BATT bus to backfeed the IG1 buss on the interior fuse box.....therefore turning the key off has no effect. Makes sense if that's the case.
The interior fuse box has .........a BATT bus that is hot all the time 24/7................an IG1 buss that is hot anytime the key is to ON.................an IG2 buss that is hot if the key is ON but NOT hot if the key is to START..............and finally a ACC bus that is hot with the key to ON only.
The last two times this problem has occurred was because the small plug that feeds the ignitoin switch courtesy light was connected to ??????? heck I forget. It was connected to a plug down there near the foot pedals that was a part of the batt bus and connecting it up to the wrong place resulted in the batt buss feeding the IG1 buss which controls the Main Relay and that relay remained latched feeding the ECU and ignition system.
It's really difficult to fix this problem online. The other two times we fixed this problem was akin to the Miracle of The Marne, the Resurrection and the fall of the Soviet Union.
The other is that some set of elect plugs are NOT connected to their right places and that is causing the BATT bus to backfeed the IG1 buss on the interior fuse box.....therefore turning the key off has no effect. Makes sense if that's the case.
The interior fuse box has .........a BATT bus that is hot all the time 24/7................an IG1 buss that is hot anytime the key is to ON.................an IG2 buss that is hot if the key is ON but NOT hot if the key is to START..............and finally a ACC bus that is hot with the key to ON only.
The last two times this problem has occurred was because the small plug that feeds the ignitoin switch courtesy light was connected to ??????? heck I forget. It was connected to a plug down there near the foot pedals that was a part of the batt bus and connecting it up to the wrong place resulted in the batt buss feeding the IG1 buss which controls the Main Relay and that relay remained latched feeding the ECU and ignition system.
It's really difficult to fix this problem online. The other two times we fixed this problem was akin to the Miracle of The Marne, the Resurrection and the fall of the Soviet Union.
06-16-10, 03:53 PM
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Rotary Freak
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so i retrived the missing photos from the nopistons link and took pictures of my fake *** wiring diagram here
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/topi...gopid__933888&
i guess i should start with reversing the two alt wires being i did disconnect them to do my harness im fairly confident they are correct but ur guess is as good as mine right now. am i going to destroy something if i just revers them? but what if there correct why would it just start happening? im soo confused i just want to drive my car again.. oo any insight on my timng marks?
thanks james
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/topi...gopid__933888&
i guess i should start with reversing the two alt wires being i did disconnect them to do my harness im fairly confident they are correct but ur guess is as good as mine right now. am i going to destroy something if i just revers them? but what if there correct why would it just start happening? im soo confused i just want to drive my car again.. oo any insight on my timng marks?
thanks james
06-17-10, 11:32 AM
#4
HAILERS
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No. Just remove the small plug and see if the key will kill the ignition. If that did not help, then put the small plug back on the alt. No need to reverse the wires at all unless removal of that small plug solved the problem.
Timing marks off could be someone installed a different series pulley on the eccentric shaft during a rebuild or could be someone installed the CAS drive gear on the eccentric shaft *** backwards (done did that muhself). Make sure the idle is below 1000 rpms when you check the timing or the result won't be worth looking at. At around 1100 rpm the ECU advances the timing all by itself therefore when checking the timing the rpms must be under1000 rpm and preferably closer to stk 750-800 rpm. But on the whole just being under 1000 rpms will give you a correct result whether your at 1000 rpms or 500 rpms, should be good. Over 1100rpm.......not worth looking at til the idle figure is fixed.
Timing marks off could be someone installed a different series pulley on the eccentric shaft during a rebuild or could be someone installed the CAS drive gear on the eccentric shaft *** backwards (done did that muhself). Make sure the idle is below 1000 rpms when you check the timing or the result won't be worth looking at. At around 1100 rpm the ECU advances the timing all by itself therefore when checking the timing the rpms must be under1000 rpm and preferably closer to stk 750-800 rpm. But on the whole just being under 1000 rpms will give you a correct result whether your at 1000 rpms or 500 rpms, should be good. Over 1100rpm.......not worth looking at til the idle figure is fixed.
07-12-10, 03:59 PM
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Rotary Freak
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Hailers your a genius, that fixed my no turn off problem I swapped the alt. Wires and bam no more problem shutting off the car
Now, I have a bigger problem. Im back at square one with my car now intermitently the car runs on one rotor.
I had the car running all morning fine. I go to start it this afternoon and its back to running like ****. I feel it has to be a wiring issue or failing sensor. Iv checked the basics and Iv redone my whole emissions harness and connectors, new injectors and filters, and new primary coil and plugs. Everytime I replace somthing the car runs fine for a little, but then starts duing the same ****. I dont know if its something I did or not. This has been driving me nuts over the last couple years and has led to me to not be abled to drive the vehical. Do you have any insight on this situation?
Thanks,
James
Now, I have a bigger problem. Im back at square one with my car now intermitently the car runs on one rotor.
I had the car running all morning fine. I go to start it this afternoon and its back to running like ****. I feel it has to be a wiring issue or failing sensor. Iv checked the basics and Iv redone my whole emissions harness and connectors, new injectors and filters, and new primary coil and plugs. Everytime I replace somthing the car runs fine for a little, but then starts duing the same ****. I dont know if its something I did or not. This has been driving me nuts over the last couple years and has led to me to not be abled to drive the vehical. Do you have any insight on this situation?
Thanks,
James
07-15-10, 01:18 PM
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Rotary Freak
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Hailers what could cause it to do this one second the car will run fine then after and extended idle or restart it'll just fall on it's face I doesn't really sho any other conditions i'v checked and gone over my connections and wiring all looks well. I'm unable to get any changes by shaking wires or connector and Im prety sure the only things left if the fuel and ignition system are the main relay and cas is it possibe for one failing to create symptomes like this??
Thanks
James
Thanks
James
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