A series four turbo ..............with the key On, engine OFF the brown red wire at the sensor should read approx 3.4 to 3.6 vdc. No real need to pull any vacuum on the sensor. Just key On and engine off and read the brown/red wire with the electrical connector connected to the sensor.

 

4/5 Update......

went over everything today , found a pin i didnt remove from the EM harness.... still having issues getting it timed correctly , got my rtek 1.7 installed , after a bunc hof fiddling around i got the car to start as long as i was on the throttle, did not sound correct, assuming the timing was off..... will try again sunday

 

Remove the crank bolt and pin key should be at 9 a clock position and that is your tdc which where u want ur timing to be

 

Wait, are we talking about the thermo wax on the throttle body that contacts the fast idle cam?

 

For Snowbum:
No, he was/is talking abou the eccentric shaft bypass valve which is a thremowax device inside the front of the eccentric shaft.

For J. Reed the words below:

Your last post makes it sound like a RX with no ouput from the AFM to the ECU. Make sure the afm plug is on and if so then go to the ECU and backprobe the input wire from the AFM to the ECU and compare it with the FSM ........plus have someone move the vane in the afm aft while watching the meter that's backprobing the ECU and see if the value rises and falls when the vane in the afm is moved. Just need the key to ON to do this. The voltage value should decrease as the vane in the afm is moved aft if memory serves.

 

I see now thanks

 

Will do tomorrow i just happen to have the printouts for the afm in the car lol ... ill have to give it a shot....

 

UPDATE :

decided that with my work/school schedule i needed to get help, so i brought my car to JPR in Blackwood Nj, Hoping for the best !

 

6/5 update

so apparently new gaskets leak , source of my major malfunction were caused my large vacuum leaks :/ .. well i guess its live and learn , hope to have the 7 registered and driving by friday