TII runs better with a vacuum leak
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 408
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From: WDC
When I did my injector upgrade I replaced all the grommets, and the Air bleed orings. IF u can spin the air bleeds around your orings may be old and dry, this caused a very minor vac leak in my car. may be the case in yours?
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Law Breaker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,333
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From: S.F. Bay Area, California 510
Originally Posted by RETed
Waitaminute...
Are you complaining about a high idle or a pulsing idle?
Did you hook up the stock cruise control back?
Did you check if the cruise control cable isn't too tight?
Did you shoot starting fluid on top of the engine?
The fuel injector lower grommets are notorious for leaking...
-Ted
Are you complaining about a high idle or a pulsing idle?
Did you hook up the stock cruise control back?
Did you check if the cruise control cable isn't too tight?
Did you shoot starting fluid on top of the engine?
The fuel injector lower grommets are notorious for leaking...
-Ted
I don't have cruise control anymore, nor A/C or P/S.
sprayed starting fluid on top, around the ic, between the TB and firewall, under the UIM, along the LIM, and around the turbo compressor.
I replaced the fuel injector grommets/o-rings/pintle caps with new ones from Mazdatrix.
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Law Breaker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,333
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From: S.F. Bay Area, California 510
Originally Posted by iceblue
I feel he still has more leaks somewhere to address.
Are you getting white smoke?
Are you getting white smoke?
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 53
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From: tulsa, ok
I had idle trouble with my 84 gsl se, stock, i tried everything and it was random. So i pulled off the bac. All better, rock solid 850 idle. I also have an 87 TII. All emmisons removed, OMP, even the bac. Only maf, tps, intake air temp, coolant temp, Map, i'm sure i forgot something but only the bear essentials. It idles at 1200 when warm and 1000 when cool. I also did tb mod and secondary removal. In conclusion, try pulling the Bac and blocking it off, don't trash it just try it, if you haven't.
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Originally Posted by carzy driver
I don't have the air bypass solenoid in place, I simply ran a hose from the nipple above the BAC to the intercooler replacing the ABS. The wires broke off at the solenoid on the one ABS I had. When I squeeze that hose, the engine will sputter and die if not released. Take the hose off and the car will run for about 2-3 seconds then die. Sorry for the confusion.
On a normal car, during a cold engine start, the airbypass solenoid opens for 17 seconds to feed extra air to that nipple next to the bac, causing a close to 3000 rpm engine speed for 17 seconds to warm the catalytic converter up. After the 17 seconds the air bypass solenoid closes.
You routed around the air bypass solenoid which in effect caused a constant flow of air from the intercooler to that nipple next to the bac. So block both nipples, the one on the intercooler and the one next to the bac.
USE the one next to the bac for a vacuum source for your aftermarket bov.
Air Bypass Valve is referred to as a AWS valve on the series five.
Last edited by HAILERS; Aug 3, 2006 at 06:12 PM.
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Law Breaker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,333
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From: S.F. Bay Area, California 510
Originally Posted by Karack
get it worked out yet?
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