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Throttle body thermowax removal question.

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Old 04-20-11, 05:56 PM
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Throttle body thermowax removal question.

Once the thermowax is removed from the throttle body can you just run redirect the coolant line from the water pump housing that previously entered the throttle body back to the rotor housing?

I don't initially see a problem doing this, but I want to make sure before putting everything back together.
Old 04-20-11, 06:19 PM
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You can run a hose between the water pump housing and the rear iron, or you can plug both holes.
Old 04-20-11, 06:30 PM
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I had thought about plugging them, but i felt running a hose might have a smaller chance of leaking.

Thanks!
Old 04-21-11, 11:42 AM
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Just think of it this way.
you plug holes,it could leak there.
you put a hose on,it could leak at the clamp at one side or the other.
Tomato.....tamato.....(6 of one,,half a dozen of the other!)
Old 04-21-11, 12:55 PM
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My thought was that I would have to put some kind of sealant in the orifice and it might not stick properly and the cap i would use would not be rated for that temp blah blah.
Old 04-21-11, 06:56 PM
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such a waste of time to remove it
theres a 1001 threads with members haveing tons of problems
Old 04-21-11, 09:54 PM
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Well I was waiting for some parts and for my injectors to come back so I figured I would remove the secondary plates, and that naturally lead to removing the thermowax. Mine had stuck previously not allowing the idle to go down.

I am having a hard time thinking of what the associated problems are unless you did something wrong, well besides having to hold the idle with your foot occasionally. Living in Houston and driving the car rarely, I don't think it is necessary at all. And is maybe a slight detriment since you are reving the car before it is warmed.

Am I right?
Old 04-23-11, 01:57 PM
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if you like headaches go for it ...if you want a nice ideling car leave it alone or put a new thermowax

trust me do not remove
Old 04-23-11, 05:12 PM
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i dont have a problem with out mine, just have to let it warm up before it will idle.
Old 04-23-11, 05:18 PM
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I don't have 2nd throttle plates Or thermowax, Or bac. My car idles solid 875.
Old 04-23-11, 05:58 PM
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what do you really gain from this

im not trying to be negative because some of you got it to work

i got mine to work fine

but the gains was a waste of time

i will never do such a thing again
i put mine back to stock and everthing is beutifull
Old 04-23-11, 06:02 PM
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Did you guys tap the holes from the secondary plate rod or jb weld/ weld?
Old 04-24-11, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by dennis blackstone
what do you really gain from this
im not trying to be negative because some of you got it to work
i got mine to work fine
but the gains was a waste of time
i will never do such a thing again
i put mine back to stock and everthing is beutifull
the "gain" isnt anything in relation to power, its just for simplicity. One less thing to have to work around when your working on the motor.
But unless you're completely removing EVERYTHING that isnt nececesary for the motor to run, its pretty much pointless. Basically, if you're keeping emissions anyway, its not gonna matter much. So i have to agree with you there.

Originally Posted by 2slow4stock
I don't have 2nd throttle plates Or thermowax, Or bac. My car idles solid 875.
Same here. Mines at about 950, with a streetport and no emissions or secondary plates.

Originally Posted by HoustonMS3
My thought was that I would have to put some kind of sealant in the orifice and it might not stick properly and the cap i would use would not be rated for that temp blah blah.
MAKE SURE you have a good seal on this if you do decide to do it. I capped/clamped the nipple with what I THOUGHT was a quality high temp rubber cap. I did a hard pull out of a pay-toll one night and then my coolant buzzer goes off. Popped the hood, found coolant dripping everywhere all over the ground. I was convinced that I blew a coolant seal, so bummed. Drank my sorrows away that night. Then the next morning i pulled the upper intake off and saw that f*cking cap... all dried out and deteriorated. I wasnt even mad, just relieved that I didnt need a rebuild.
***Now I use the stock hose on the nipple with a snug bolt in the other side with an extra clamp on it, just to be safe


Old 04-24-11, 01:54 AM
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I wish I hadn't removed my thermowax. I hate waiting for the car to warm up...but it does make removing the UIM soooo much easier. I don't have to drain the coolant.
Old 04-24-11, 08:20 AM
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Ran full tb mod, no bac etc for yrs w/o a single issue. Idled solid at 750.
Originally Posted by dennis blackstone
if you like headaches go for it ...if you want a nice ideling car leave it alone or put a new thermowax

trust me do not remove
Old 04-24-11, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Vdub2002
i dont have a problem with out mine, just have to let it warm up before it will idle.
Well, that would be the problem, wouldn't it? Your car doesn't idle cold anymore. It's kind of broken...Even a POS carbureted flathead V8 from the 40s will idle when cold.

Anyway, thermowax issues are easy to solve. Just pull the system off, clean it up, unstick anything that is stuck, and put it back on. There are absolutely no gains in removing it. As for removing the secondary throttle plates on an NA, kind of pointless as well unless they are stuck closed. They are pulled open by default using engine vacuum as soon as the thermovalve opens.
Old 04-28-11, 06:05 PM
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Heh, thanks for the info, just figured out my problem thanks to this thread. lol.
Old 04-28-11, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Well, that would be the problem, wouldn't it? Your car doesn't idle cold anymore. It's kind of broken...Even a POS carbureted flathead V8 from the 40s will idle when cold.
.
Then cars without power steering are also broken or a car with no reverse? They are there to facilitate a function, if there is no need in application, it is no problem.
Old 04-30-11, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by HoustonMS3
Then cars without power steering are also broken or a car with no reverse? They are there to facilitate a function, if there is no need in application, it is no problem.
Since when is there no application for a car that idles when started cold?

As far as I know, only one car has ever been mass produced without reverse; the Isetta. You cannot compare a car produced without a function to one where a necessary function has been disabled for no advantage, only detriment.
Old 04-30-11, 09:09 PM
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i agree with you arron it is pointless removing it ,another thing which can be a headache in time
Old 04-30-11, 10:01 PM
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It is a PITA thought when you need to get to the areas under it (injectors, vacuum lines). However, I have found that if you remove the UIM from the TB and LIM, you can leave the lines in place and gain access.
I sourced parts all winter and was able to get a functioning thermowax. I like my 1200RPM cold idle start ups and 900RPM warm idles.
Old 04-30-11, 10:10 PM
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If the coolant feed for the turbo is run from the rear iron to the thermowax and then to the turbo...will there be enough coolant flow? Does the thermowax system restrict the flow of coolant?
Old 05-01-11, 06:11 AM
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The thermowax will be too restrictive. The lines themselves would be enough for the turbo, but if you look at the thermowax and TB and how they meet, the feed hole is tiny.
Old 05-01-11, 12:36 PM
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trust me leave the thermowax alone down the road
you will thank arron and i
hailers was the one who gave me insight on how much an old car needs it
Old 05-01-11, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by PvillKnight7
If the coolant feed for the turbo is run from the rear iron to the thermowax and then to the turbo...will there be enough coolant flow? Does the thermowax system restrict the flow of coolant?
I ran mine like that for a year or two and had no issues. At least on an NA engine, anyway. I've also had countless others do this when they did their turbo-NA setup and I've not heard of any problems.


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