Once the thermowax is removed from the throttle body can you just run redirect the coolant line from the water pump housing that previously entered the throttle body back to the rotor housing?

I don't initially see a problem doing this, but I want to make sure before putting everything back together.

 

You can run a hose between the water pump housing and the rear iron, or you can plug both holes.

 

I had thought about plugging them, but i felt running a hose might have a smaller chance of leaking.

Thanks!

 

Just think of it this way.
you plug holes,it could leak there.
you put a hose on,it could leak at the clamp at one side or the other.
Tomato.....tamato.....(6 of one,,half a dozen of the other!)

 

My thought was that I would have to put some kind of sealant in the orifice and it might not stick properly and the cap i would use would not be rated for that temp blah blah.

 

such a waste of time to remove it
theres a 1001 threads with members haveing tons of problems

 

Well I was waiting for some parts and for my injectors to come back so I figured I would remove the secondary plates, and that naturally lead to removing the thermowax. Mine had stuck previously not allowing the idle to go down.

I am having a hard time thinking of what the associated problems are unless you did something wrong, well besides having to hold the idle with your foot occasionally. Living in Houston and driving the car rarely, I don't think it is necessary at all. And is maybe a slight detriment since you are reving the car before it is warmed.

Am I right?

 

if you like headaches go for it ...if you want a nice ideling car leave it alone or put a new thermowax

trust me do not remove

 

i dont have a problem with out mine, just have to let it warm up before it will idle.

 

I don't have 2nd throttle plates Or thermowax, Or bac. My car idles solid 875.

 

what do you really gain from this

im not trying to be negative because some of you got it to work

i got mine to work fine

but the gains was a waste of time

i will never do such a thing again
i put mine back to stock and everthing is beutifull

 

Did you guys tap the holes from the secondary plate rod or jb weld/ weld?

 

the "gain" isnt anything in relation to power, its just for simplicity. One less thing to have to work around when your working on the motor.
But unless you're completely removing EVERYTHING that isnt nececesary for the motor to run, its pretty much pointless. Basically, if you're keeping emissions anyway, its not gonna matter much. So i have to agree with you there.

Same here. Mines at about 950, with a streetport and no emissions or secondary plates.

MAKE SURE you have a good seal on this if you do decide to do it. I capped/clamped the nipple with what I THOUGHT was a quality high temp rubber cap. I did a hard pull out of a pay-toll one night and then my coolant buzzer goes off. Popped the hood, found coolant dripping everywhere all over the ground. I was convinced that I blew a coolant seal, so bummed. Drank my sorrows away that night. Then the next morning i pulled the upper intake off and saw that f*cking cap... all dried out and deteriorated. I wasnt even mad, just relieved that I didnt need a rebuild.
***Now I use the stock hose on the nipple with a snug bolt in the other side with an extra clamp on it, just to be safe

 

I wish I hadn't removed my thermowax. I hate waiting for the car to warm up...but it does make removing the UIM soooo much easier. I don't have to drain the coolant.

 

Ran full tb mod, no bac etc for yrs w/o a single issue. Idled solid at 750.

 

Well, that would be the problem, wouldn't it? Your car doesn't idle cold anymore. It's kind of broken...Even a POS carbureted flathead V8 from the 40s will idle when cold.

Anyway, thermowax issues are easy to solve. Just pull the system off, clean it up, unstick anything that is stuck, and put it back on. There are absolutely no gains in removing it. As for removing the secondary throttle plates on an NA, kind of pointless as well unless they are stuck closed. They are pulled open by default using engine vacuum as soon as the thermovalve opens.

 

Heh, thanks for the info, just figured out my problem thanks to this thread. lol.

 

Then cars without power steering are also broken or a car with no reverse? They are there to facilitate a function, if there is no need in application, it is no problem.

 

Since when is there no application for a car that idles when started cold?

As far as I know, only one car has ever been mass produced without reverse; the Isetta. You cannot compare a car produced without a function to one where a necessary function has been disabled for no advantage, only detriment.

 

i agree with you arron it is pointless removing it ,another thing which can be a headache in time

 

It is a PITA thought when you need to get to the areas under it (injectors, vacuum lines). However, I have found that if you remove the UIM from the TB and LIM, you can leave the lines in place and gain access.
I sourced parts all winter and was able to get a functioning thermowax. I like my 1200RPM cold idle start ups and 900RPM warm idles.

 

If the coolant feed for the turbo is run from the rear iron to the thermowax and then to the turbo...will there be enough coolant flow? Does the thermowax system restrict the flow of coolant?

 

The thermowax will be too restrictive. The lines themselves would be enough for the turbo, but if you look at the thermowax and TB and how they meet, the feed hole is tiny.

 

trust me leave the thermowax alone down the road
you will thank arron and i
hailers was the one who gave me insight on how much an old car needs it

 

I ran mine like that for a year or two and had no issues. At least on an NA engine, anyway. I've also had countless others do this when they did their turbo-NA setup and I've not heard of any problems.