Well, the RX-7 is now sporting Mazda Competition's Stage 2 kit, which consists of coilovers (400/250) with replacement front sleeves, camber caster plates, Koni's, and Eibach Swaybars. Haven't installed the swaybars yet, I want to see how it handles (once I get it running! ) before I swap in new SBs. Anyway, I also put in Delrin all around. Only thing I haven't swapped in is the toe elim. bushing, which I'll do after I get new bearings put into the rear hubs.

- If you dont' have a press, you can do a lot of these bushings witha good vice. *however*, changing the rear bushing on each front control arm is a B***H, even with a press. I finally ended up cutting the rubber away so I could cut the metal sleeve in half to release the pressure on the shaft. Only then could I press out the bushing. When you press the new one on (and it does require a press), try to ensure the flat side is pointed up, relative to the CA's position in the car. It's not fun to try and turn it after the fact.

- Koni's instructions SUCK. The white washer goes under the rubber bumpstop (not clear in instructions). The fluid the instructions talk about is apparently oil. Watch how much oil you put in there, put a little in, then test fit the shock. You'll have an Exxon Valdez oil spill if you just pour it in.

- The Koni's won't fit Mazda's Camber/Caster plate without sanding the threads down. I guess when Koni machined the threads onto the shock shaft, that kinda expanded the threads a bit, so you can't get it to fit in the CC plate. 220 sandpaper and some patience, it's not much material to remove.

- When changing ball joints, make sure the spindle is fully seated on the ball joint before tightening the bolt. If the bolt isn't going in, DON'T try to force it. (unless you have a pick-n-pull nearby with 2nd gens like I do ) You'll strip the bolt.

- If you figure out why Mazda sent CC plates with 3 long and one short bolt on each side, let me know

- The rear shock studs will require a 1 1/8" deep socket.

Anyway, I'm done with that, it's a bit high in the rear and a bit low in front, but I'll get that sorted out tomorrow.



PaulC

 

I assumed that the short bolt went in the inside rear bolt position because that one position has less clearance than the other 3 positions. I did find that the long bolts would fit into that spot so it does seem kind of pointless.

hrm... the more I think about it.. it might of been the inside front bolt position on each side that has less clearance to the upper spring purch.

 

thanks guys. rated the thread a 5 for archiving.

this will definitly come in handy when I rebuild the car from ground up and start tackleing the bushings and shocks/struts.

 

Actually I took the bearings and the shocks to a very reputable bearing shop in town for some clarification.
They checked the size of the bearing and shaft, and determined they were the correct size... AND to install them properly you simply freeze the bearing.
Soo I did.. and voila it dropped right on the shaft. Worked like a champ. They stated NOT to sand the shaft, as it will wear on its own, and over time will develop a looseness, and eventually need replacing.
As far as the Koni's go and the "oil".. It stated on the instructons for the shocks to add Antifreeze in the shock tube before insertng the cartridge. And yes it takes only a little of it.. I think just a few ounces.. It acts as a type of heat sink compound. To keep the shocks cool.

 

the short bolt is fot the inside rear corner. If you put the plate in full neg castor you will see the clearance problem. Question for you, did you mount the plate on the top or bottom? I've seen it both ways. Seems like under mounting would be stronger but the over mounting would give some extra travel...

 

In the diagrams for the 2nd gen it shows it under the tower, as does it for the 1st gen. I have done several of both generations, and the under mounting makes the most sense also..
If for some reason you have bolt failure, (god forbid!) you will still have the shock tower to support the weight of the vehicle.
Also if you mount it under, you only "have" to cut the two small sections out to allow full travel of camber and caster. Thereby only weakening the tower's integrity a little. If you were to try to mount it on top you need to mill off a lot of metal to make the surface flat, as well as mill for bolt clearance.
You gain a 1/2" of lower ride height. Not really worth it in a 2nd gen, OR first gen, as they can st so low it is silly to begin with. Also the 1st gen has a longer spring in the back, so they tend to sit a little high in the rear. That is if you go with the Mazdacomp springs, and not a adjustable rear perch like VanSteenburg sells through ISC Racing in Winterhaven.