I am installing the Ksport coilovers right now, and the height is incredibly adjustable (like about 5 to 6 inches.) What's the proper height to set them at? I made them the length of the stock set up to get them on the car, and have yet to set the car on the ground to see how it's stance is, but I'm wondering if there is an approximate length I should set them to before that so it's easier to adjust.

Pics will be up in a minute so you can see what I'm talking about.

 

Here's one on the car, set to stock, non-compressed (off the car) length:



And here's the other one, right out of the box:

 

Well, I threw the tire back on it, put it on the ground, and it looks like I need to lower it about 2 inches. So, I'll do that, set the other one the same way, put it on the car, and I should be good to go.

Then I have to do the fronts, which I'm sure will be 10x the bitch the backs were.

 

get the car corner weighed if you wanna be using them to their fullest potential. If you're doing it based on height alone then you might have driveability issues if it's not done right.


Kevin for 2012

 

Well, for now, I just wanted them on the car. I gotta do the fronts now.

 

dude nice LOL,i got those on my car ! i love it cough cough when the rode is smooth lol ,but when the road is bad omg ! but good job man nice

 

Those are sweet lookin'.

Go low! "Low rider, ride a little lower..." (S-c-c-c-crape.)

Corner weighing seems like a worthwhile investment, given the price of coilovers. Seems like it would be hard to dial them in otherwise, but I know nothing.

 

I'm leaving them set to soft until I can get it on the road and test them. It does seem pretty stiff though.

 

$100T2. I know you're smarter than to dial them in yourself and go roadtesting them.

 

Well, I took it up and down my road about 100 feet, and it's bouncing like a ricer Honda. I gotta call the company tomorrow and see how to chill them out a bit. You know, for an MSRP of $1300, you'd think the instructions would be a little bit better.

 

i want to see this car in person holla at me when its done

 

Sure, come on by, oh, July of 2011. That's when it will probably be "done" LOL.

 

i got my front set 2 turns from soft and 1 1/2 in back ,its not bouncing...they are good coilovers in MY OPINION just that the city needs to fix the potholes here =)

 

I've got tein coilovers myself

Full lowered in the front till the bump stump and full stiffness(15 way)... back is about an inch from max... otherwise the car looks like it's leaning back


the car doesn't bounce... but when u hit a bump on the road... the occupants heads hit the roof if not restrained


that's what I call suspension

 

Can you take a picture of your front and rears so I can see how high you have them set up?

 

I can't even push down on my car once the Ohlins are set at 0 out of 32...

 

i just got my k sport on too.. i think my measurement for the rear with it in the air was 19.5" from the bottom of the tower mount to the bottom of the hub. i havent measured my front yet but the back needs to go up about a quarter inch to make the car level. i love em. the damping was set way too high at first and it was a rough rids but i turned it down a bit and i am beginning to love them.. just gotta get used to scraping on the speed mumps to get out of my hood now. ill post a pic for ya tomorrow

 

You know, for an MSRP of $1300, you'd think the buyer would be a little smarter. :P
Just pokin' fun. It is odd if the instructions aren't very clear on this.

 

those are nice coilover

 

ohlins suck!

 

$100T2 once your done installing them you should right a full review on them. Take it to a track day or find a windy country road. And put them to the test.

 

That's what everybody called suspension....back in 1910.
Compliance is the holy grail of real race car suspension- for a graphic example look
here . Notice the amount of wheel movement compared to body movement- if the body is bouncing all over the ground effects don't work.

If your car isn't set up to handle the real world conditions it faces every day instead of the mythical billiard table race track surface of your dreams, then your sexy- and expensive- shock/coilover suspension is no better than a solid strut.

 

+1

To the original poster - the only thing that adjustable coil overs give you is the ability to corner balance the car (think about adjusting the bottom of the legs of a table so that it sits evenly level). That's all they do.

More important for suspension is the combination of what your spring rates are (which you didn't mention) coupled with the ability of the shocks/dampers to control the spring, both in compression and rebound. Stiff isn't necessarily better (at least not on the track ). Keeping the tires on the race surface in the corners is the key. Many racers will have different sets of springs and change the shock settings for different tracks.

As for ride height - you should raise/lower them until you think they look okay (ie. the car sits the way you want it to), make sure that your tires aren't rubbing, and then take it in for an alignment (and corner balance if you want to pay for it) . One thing that I didn't see you mention were any camber plates on your car. If you go lower than a stock ride height, you will pick up some positive camber (ie. top of tires leaning out from car). This is not a good thing. To bring the tires back vertical, you will need an adjustable camber plate on the front strut towers which allows you to move the top mounting point of the strut. You have a similar situation with the rears which can be corrected by replacing a solid bar in the rear subframe with an adjustable link.

Do a forum search for "camber plate" or "adjustable rear camber bar" for mroe information.

Good luck,

-bill

 

Hell yeah they suck! I should sell 'em!

 

LOL, I live on a twisty country road. There's all sorts of corners, peaks and dips, it should really work them out.