Thermal Bypass Valve q? searched
#2
rx-for-my-7
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are you referring to the water thermo valve??
if so , you can remove and immerse the threaded end in hot water, from 100' to +150'. Note the temperature and blow through the top hose and make sure that air comes out of the second hose under 140' , above 140 degrees if you blow through the top hose the air should come out of the top of the valve.
if so , you can remove and immerse the threaded end in hot water, from 100' to +150'. Note the temperature and blow through the top hose and make sure that air comes out of the second hose under 140' , above 140 degrees if you blow through the top hose the air should come out of the top of the valve.
#6
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
A bad E-shaft thermo valve will result in the oil pressure being low by about 15 lbs all the time.
So at idle you will be about 15 psi, and at 3000 rpm you will be at about 45 psi on your oil pressure.
So at idle you will be about 15 psi, and at 3000 rpm you will be at about 45 psi on your oil pressure.
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#9
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by rx7vadim
what type of damage can result from bad therm valve?
Originally Posted by rx7vadim
thanks icemark. this is weird because when engine is warm my idle is 15# and 3k rpm is 60#.
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dont see signs of oil loss. i did high rpm runs 2-3 times, now i dont do high rpms untill i get wideband, spark plug tell me its lean.
just started my car cold and getting 75 psi at 2k rpm. and when its warmed up its about 60-65 at 3k. i think it possible that valve is stuck closed.
just started my car cold and getting 75 psi at 2k rpm. and when its warmed up its about 60-65 at 3k. i think it possible that valve is stuck closed.
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Originally Posted by rx7vadim
thanks icemark. this is weird because when engine is warm my idle is 15# and 3k rpm is 60#.
I have the same problem!! My oil presuure is low like 15# idyling and 3k rpm is abt 60# when engine is warm.
Have you figure out the problem yet?
Anyone can advice?
#18
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If trouble is suspected, use only a mechanical oil pressure gauge to detemine if the pressure is good/bad.
Verification of that statement??? See the FSM and the Lubrication section telling the mechanic to install a Mechanical gauge to checkout the oil pressure. Also verified by life experiences using a mechanical gauge to compare to the electrical gauge on the car, plus using a Fluke PV350 pressure/vacuum sensor to do the same. Stock gauge always fails the accuracy test.
Verification of that statement??? See the FSM and the Lubrication section telling the mechanic to install a Mechanical gauge to checkout the oil pressure. Also verified by life experiences using a mechanical gauge to compare to the electrical gauge on the car, plus using a Fluke PV350 pressure/vacuum sensor to do the same. Stock gauge always fails the accuracy test.
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
If trouble is suspected, use only a mechanical oil pressure gauge to detemine if the pressure is good/bad.
Verification of that statement??? See the FSM and the Lubrication section telling the mechanic to install a Mechanical gauge to checkout the oil pressure. Also verified by life experiences using a mechanical gauge to compare to the electrical gauge on the car, plus using a Fluke PV350 pressure/vacuum sensor to do the same. Stock gauge always fails the accuracy test.
Verification of that statement??? See the FSM and the Lubrication section telling the mechanic to install a Mechanical gauge to checkout the oil pressure. Also verified by life experiences using a mechanical gauge to compare to the electrical gauge on the car, plus using a Fluke PV350 pressure/vacuum sensor to do the same. Stock gauge always fails the accuracy test.
I have a defi oil press sensor intalled to compare the values.... it reads the same with the stock sensor. So that confirms its not sensor problem, searchin for other possible problem....
Last edited by Donjuan; 02-20-07 at 01:25 AM.
#20
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Replace the thermal bypass valve.
Maybe the front cover '0'ring. I'd only suspect that if the engine was rebuilt. See the FAQ at http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm
Maybe the front cover '0'ring. I'd only suspect that if the engine was rebuilt. See the FAQ at http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm
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