Rotorhead34

Is there a difference of impedence between jspec and aspec injectors for like years. Example: 88TII, aspec high impedence 550cc injector; jspec-?

I have a jspec motor that a kid hacked up while installing it. He cut everything imaginable, yes wiring harness as well. I found last night that the secondary injectors were not working, but the car still will not start. Fuel is at the rail with no pulse. I removed the rats nest and all associated wiring and vacuum. The two primary injectors may be clogged, but at least they click when I put power to them. I'm not sure what injectors he has in the car, wether they are jspec or aspec, or does that even matter? I have spark, have pulled the plugs and they were dry like they had been sitting there for a while.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the injectors can be identified by the top color and shape. as far as i'm aware, there are no differences bettween the a-spec and j-spec 550's. your best bet is to send them to www.witchhunter.com for a cleaning, flow test, and new o-rings.

HAILERS

Whether high or low impedence, they both would work for starting the car.

You NEED to turn the key to ON, and with a meter, make sure one of the wires to EACH injector plug, has battery voltage.

If it does, then the injectors themselves are not the problem.

You have spark, indicating the CAS and it's wiring is good. If you have spark, then the ECU should have the ability to turn the injectors on/off by the ECU putting a ground on the injectors other wire.

Try puilling one of the primary injectors out of the fuel rail and leaving the plug on it. Then with the fuel pump disabled (pull the plug off the pump, do NOT pull any EGI fuses to do that). Now spin the engine over and look/touch the pintle end of the injector to see if it's opening and closing or not. The little needle valve should be seen to open close while spinning the engine.

Or if you have confidence you know how to install a CAS right, then disable the fuel pump and pull the plugs off the lead and trail coils. Now with the key to ON, spin the bottom gear on the CAS. I'll put it this way, when I do that, I can hear the primary injectors clickity click. You should be able also to hear that click.

And of course you already made sure the fuel pump is running by jumpering the fuel pump check connector in the engine bay and turning the key to On and listening to the pump. Then of course you pulled the fuel RETURN line off to make sure fuel poured out under the same conditions as above. Proving there is no blockage in the fuel system and that you did not install the fuel line pressue and return lines *** backwards.

Or since you have spark, then disable the fuel pump by pullig its plug off and spraying starter fluid into the intake snorkle prior to the afm for two to three seconds max, then start the engine. IF the engine starts then you do indeed have a fuel delivery problem. I'd do that prior to anything else. NO carb cleaner in lieu of Starter Fluid allowed.

There's other stuff you can do but that's enough.

Oh, the high/low injector stuff. IF you used low on a high impedence car like a 88 model, you might whack the injector coil drivers in the ECU someday in the future when the injectors are max'd out.

Other than that I'd guess they'd last for sometime prior to burning out. Check them out by putting a meter on ohms and touch both meter probes to the two injector blades. Low should show 2-3ohms and high approx 10-13. Something like that. IF they clicked for you at one time, then they are not burnt out. An 88 should have the higher resistance ones.