I got a mechanic to check my TPS on my 87 TII with a Multimeter. Anyways he checkd and adjusted it so it has 1K OHM at idle, so that's cool now. But at FULL THROTTLE it reads 15K OHM! I think the proper range is 4-6K OHM...so what would a 15K OHM reading at FULL THROTTLE do to my car? Probably something bad...

 

At least nothing will FRY.

If your TPS is out of range, then it is ignored by the car and a ECU code is logged.

Run the procedure to get the ecu codes from your car and see what it says.

Mazdatrix has new TPS units and so does the dealer, compare the prices because i thing they are similar, its more convenient to get it from the dealer than wait for mail order.

Anyway, check the error codes.

Use the 2nd gen FAQ to help you.

(You shouldnt have to have someone ELSE check you TPS for you, its so easy to adjust and/or replace.)

2nd GEN RX7 FAQ

 

I've been having weird TPS-related problems myself. I've been having a violent hesitation problem, and although the TPS passed all the resistance checks and was properly adjusted using the LED method, I ran an extended cable inside the car so I could watch the LEDs while driving. Whenever I experience the violent hesitation while cruising or accelerating, the TPS lights show the IDLE setting. What I don't know is whether an ECU grounding or other unrelated problem could cause this, or if its the TPS itself. I'd rather not perform a $300 experiment if I don't have to. Does anyone know if another problem could result in this weird TPS behavior? Also, is the TPS serviceable (can it be repaired by someone with electronics experience)? I haven't removed it yet to see if it can be opened up.

 

Are you sure you don't mean 1 volt at idle?

 

The TPS makes changes to the state of the bank of vaccuum actuators over by the drivers side of the car.

Warm up the car, and then turn it off.

Connect your test lights.
(make SURE that your lights were low amp lights! otherwise youll fry reisistors in the ECU)

place the key in the RUN position.

move the throttle using the TPS adjust screw assembly.

you should hear clicking as the lights change.

if the lights dont change, then remove the ECU and check the unit for scorch marks, check the value of the resistors, and research the ECU pinouts extensively.

check this site for help.

if the lights really dont chenge, the i cant think of another reason why they would fail.

maybe you should check the operation of each vaccum switch (the things that should be clicking).

one or more could have failed.