TED, anyone - What is the PROPER way to adjust mixture on an NA?
#1
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TED, anyone - What is the PROPER way to adjust mixture on an NA?
what is the proper way without an afc, to adjust the a/f mixture on an NA. people have said movie teeth in the MAF, some say there is a screw on the MAF, please help me and let me know what the PROPER way to do this is.
also what is the best setting to be running at, middle between rich/lean or a tad lean or a tad rich.. im not running turbo so i figure a tad lean?
THANKS!
scott
also what is the best setting to be running at, middle between rich/lean or a tad lean or a tad rich.. im not running turbo so i figure a tad lean?
THANKS!
scott
#4
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Not HAILERS, he knows of no way except at idle. I also remember somebody in the last couple of months mentioning the teeth in the maf. How about ICEMARK? KA-BUMP goes this post to the top.
#6
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Originally posted by dre_2ooo
excellent post...
but RETed isnt here anymore
excellent post...
but RETed isnt here anymore
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#8
Lives on the Forum
What the hell are you guys ressurrecting posts from a few months ago!
If you're talking about adjusting air/fuel ratio at IDLE for 1986-1988 Zenki cars, there's a R/L screw right by your pressure sensor in front of your passenger side strut tower.  Just adjust until your idle is at the highest RPM.
1989-1991 Kouki owners don't have this adjustment screw.
The spring trick in the airflow meter is something that got carried over from the TRD Toyota folks who used to mod their airflow meters on the 4AGE engines.  I really don't recommend this adjustment, as it's very easy to KILL a $1,000+ part from the Mazda dealer!  An A'PEXi S-AFC is a lot safer to install and adjust.
-Ted
If you're talking about adjusting air/fuel ratio at IDLE for 1986-1988 Zenki cars, there's a R/L screw right by your pressure sensor in front of your passenger side strut tower.  Just adjust until your idle is at the highest RPM.
1989-1991 Kouki owners don't have this adjustment screw.
The spring trick in the airflow meter is something that got carried over from the TRD Toyota folks who used to mod their airflow meters on the 4AGE engines.  I really don't recommend this adjustment, as it's very easy to KILL a $1,000+ part from the Mazda dealer!  An A'PEXi S-AFC is a lot safer to install and adjust.
-Ted
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Ted (or someone who knows)-
I purchased an S-AFC and it is on it's way to my home (hopefully anyway). I am first going to install my two underdrive pulleys and the rest of my silicone vacuum lines (and replace the two solenoids I broke), but then I'll be wanting to install the S-AFC (or have it installed if it is too tough as I'm not too electronically informed). My question is, should I tune it myself, or what? Apexi' recommends having it installed by a qualified professional from a certified Apexi' dealer, but I'm not sure if it is really that difficult to tune, or if they just want some more of my money. I don't want to mess with it if I'm going to kill my car, but I'm not sure of any Apexi' dealers even near my home in Topeka, Kansas. So, should I locate the closest dealer to me (which would be quite inconvenient), let someone else tune it, get info and tune it myself, or what? Thanks for the help to whomever may know.
-Derek
I purchased an S-AFC and it is on it's way to my home (hopefully anyway). I am first going to install my two underdrive pulleys and the rest of my silicone vacuum lines (and replace the two solenoids I broke), but then I'll be wanting to install the S-AFC (or have it installed if it is too tough as I'm not too electronically informed). My question is, should I tune it myself, or what? Apexi' recommends having it installed by a qualified professional from a certified Apexi' dealer, but I'm not sure if it is really that difficult to tune, or if they just want some more of my money. I don't want to mess with it if I'm going to kill my car, but I'm not sure of any Apexi' dealers even near my home in Topeka, Kansas. So, should I locate the closest dealer to me (which would be quite inconvenient), let someone else tune it, get info and tune it myself, or what? Thanks for the help to whomever may know.
-Derek
#10
Lives on the Forum
Well, I don't really recommend using the S-AFC on an NA, but you guys don't listen.
To adjust "properly" you really need a wide-band O2 sensor.  This is the easiest and fastest way of tuning your air/fuel mixtures on your vehicle.  Having a dyno also helps, as this quantifies the power gains that you can see on paper.
Minimally, a "cheap" air/fuel ratio gauge is enough to keep you out of trouble.  (Yes, I can hear all the wide-band supports groan right now.) An EGT also helps fine tune also...
I understand EGT gauges are not the norm for NA's, but it's cheaper than a wide-band at closer to $1,000+ (versus $200-$300 for an EGT gauge).
-Ted
To adjust "properly" you really need a wide-band O2 sensor.  This is the easiest and fastest way of tuning your air/fuel mixtures on your vehicle.  Having a dyno also helps, as this quantifies the power gains that you can see on paper.
Minimally, a "cheap" air/fuel ratio gauge is enough to keep you out of trouble.  (Yes, I can hear all the wide-band supports groan right now.) An EGT also helps fine tune also...
I understand EGT gauges are not the norm for NA's, but it's cheaper than a wide-band at closer to $1,000+ (versus $200-$300 for an EGT gauge).
-Ted
#12
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Originally posted by RETed
Well, I don't really recommend using the S-AFC on an NA, but you guys don't listen.
-Ted
Well, I don't really recommend using the S-AFC on an NA, but you guys don't listen.
-Ted
-david
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