Tail lights and front DRL stopped working
 

At the same time. Are those on the same fuse, and which? I can't figure out what fuse those are on, I have looked everywhere on the net, and none are saying anything about the tail lights.

15 amp Illumination fuse.

Doesnt that include the gauge cluster lights? Or am I way off now?

Yes.

Well it aint that circuit then, my gauge lights work like the should.

The light switch harness has a Red/Black wire which has power when the light switch knob is turned. This is the wire which powers the tail lights, parking lights, side markers, glove box and so on.

I have to go check if my side markers work.

If they dont, where does this cable fail usually? Any special weak spots?

Close to the headlight switch.

Okay, thanks. Will check later today when I fix my driver side window (relays).

Say that it aint this cable (I think it is, I have to hit the switch sometimes to get the gauge lights working, so it seems logical), are there anything else? I mean, my car does the weirdest things, so you never know.

Unplug the harness from the back of the light switch, you will see a fried pin at the switch and the harness. It is best to replace both of them.

I know I had a fried one, but it seemed to work forever, if you get me. Problem is, small electronics aint my speciality, so might be hard for me to change it. Might give it to my garage and see what they can do. As I said, I have to hit it sometimes to get the gauge lights on, so replacement might be the best solution atm.

Also, when I brake, my tail lights turn off, and only one break light works (or the hatch light works too, but of the two tail light brake lights, only one works). i've seen it on a Corolla before, and changing the bulb didnt work. This might be the same issue, with the wire?

One more question, how do I get out the pin from the plug, and where do I get a new pin?

EDIT: Both on the switch and the harness side. The harness is so short it is hard to get anything done there.

It is best to replace the harness, not just the connector. It is only about 18" long, then plugs into the dash harness

http://mazdatrix.com/Pictures/switch...htHarness1.jpg

Anywhere I can get that? Also, I think it was you that sold the BOP kits too, so if you got the harness in stock, I would be interested in buying some stuff from your site :)

Now, the air pump pipe is not connected under the car, so it is loose, making all kinds of noises. Not good, I know, but I live in Norway, ordering stuff from the US takes time and money.

We did not have DRL in the US on the 88 vert, there is a good possibility that your switch and harness are slightly different from the our version. If you want to take a chance with it, we could supply you with one from our Mazda dealer (prices are always lower than Mazdatrix), we could include it in the package with another purchase. Keep in mind you should replace the switch also, otherwise you will just short out the harness again.

I got a USDM Vert, so there shouldnt be a problem there. Also, it is the same switches.

As for the DRL, I mean the orange lights in front that is always on. We call them parking lights or DRL, depending on who you ask :)

That is what I am talking about, here the parking lights are not always on. They are off unless you put the switch in the middle position, but if you think that the US harness and switch will work with out any issues, they are still available new. I checked our inventory of used switch and we have a good S4 HL combo switch that we could sell you, but do not have any of the harness available used.

Pm

Oh, one thing. If you know what wire is going through the switch giving 12V to the lights, there must be a possibility to extend that wire, and put a switch on it? Just as a temporary solution until I receive a new one?

I don't want the police stopping me and giving me a 150$ fine for missing tail lights.

Post #6.

sheesh, $130 for a new harness? i'm sure there is a place to get replacement connector pins from to replace the 1 pin that tends to get fragged. dealt with it the other day and just used a pin from another and soldered it more solidly than the original tiny crimp.

Ill just get a new harness, half the plug is black, the switch itself is partly melted and so on. It is definitely worth the money over giving 150$ to the Norwegian government, who gives us roads like this for the money:
http://pub.tv2.no/multimedia/na/arch...76010216x9.jpg

Barely wide enough for two trailers to meet. That is the European Route 6, supposed to hold European standard. Kiss my behind. Rather fix my car for those pennies :P

One problem with the switch when I think about it:

My taillights, parking lights, side markers and glove box light works all the time, no matter what position the switch is in.

That shouldn't be a problem, if I get a new US one, as I can have it whatever way I like, as long as I got lights on when I drive, but mine doesn't work that way.

Norway are one of the few countries that got laws stating that you MUST have either parking lamps and fog lamps or low beams on when driving at all times.

EDIT: Since none responded yet, I will edit and say that in Norway we must use low beam or park with fog lamps as DRL at all times, and low beam/high beam after nightfall. Better explained than last time.

But as many import german cars, with the same switch as you use, it isn't illegal, as long as I turn the switch when I go out for a drive :) But this was off topic kinda, it doesn't solve my problem.

Okay, it wasn't the black/red wire, it was a white/black wire, last on the side where the clip is not, to say it that way.

Does this mean anythign to you? Anyone got a scheme/pinout to help out?

EDIT: Also, if that doesn't have anything with the light issues, what else can cause this?

Here is a stab in the dark. I was having tail and brakelight issues that traced back to bad solder at the connectors on my CPU on the left side of the driver footwell. Replaced the solder at the large harness connections and all is well.

Well mine is torched, and looking @ the service manual from Mazda, it says that the wire that is torched is 12V for BTN, whatever that is. It goes on a 15A and 60A fuse, and goes around all relays.

This might be it, it seems like. It comes in from the E wire on the same plug, and is stated there as Panel Lamp Control.

Worth a shot?

Not sure what you mean by this. Also, you have a W/B wire in your headlight harness?

I don't know, the wire I am talking about is the one marked in red in the attachment.

It is as stated in the post above yours, BTN.

What this means, I dunno :P

Ups, sorry, as Chris from Banzai stated to me in a mail, it is white/green, not white/black.

That is the wire that is torched.

Here is some info that will help with the repair:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/headlight-switch-plug-928274/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/headlight-switch-harness-burn-help-878824/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/problem-headlight-switch-42081/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/tail-lights-dont-work-brake-lights-do-870937/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/heavy-duty-light-switch-operation-how-too-prevent-burnout-164931/

So the wire position encircled in Red is the wire which is damaged. If this is so then the wire in that harness ought to be White/Green in color. The W/G wire receives continuous voltage from the 15 amp Illumination fuse.

The Red/Black wire in the harness receives voltage from the White/Green wire when the headlight switch knob is turned on. The R/B wire is connected to the tail lights,parking lights....... and powers these lights.

Okay, from that info I got there, it seems that the white/Green is 12V to the parking lights and so on.

So if I put a regular switch and a relay there, I can manually turn on those lights until I get a new switch from the US?

^ Yes.

Okay, uhm.

I torched some fuse, but I can't find it. There is suddenly no power there.

I admit I used direct ground to test, which was stupid.

Buut, what fuse can that be? The 15A Illu fuse seemed okay. I cant believe I fried the 60A under the hood? :O

The Illumination fuse is an example of a fuse which receives constant power and thus is part of the battery buss and all interior buss fuses besides the two circuit breaker fuses is powered up by the 60 amp BTN fuse.

I used to remember... What does BTN stand for?

Okay, it worked with a 16amp switch. But, i got no gauge lights, what wire do i need to tap into to get those on the same switch?

While im at it, i got both door lights working, but the ign key hole and the room light doesnt work. What are regular spots for these to fail except room fuse?

Gauge lights are powered by the Red/Green wire. The interior spot lights (by the rearview mirror) are powered continuously by the Blue/Red wire. Easy thing to do here is to check for voltage on the Blue/Red wire!

EDIT: The largest plug at the CPU, located towards the top of the CPU, has a Green/White wire which provides the ground signal for the door lock cylinder light as well as the ignition key cylinder light. Jumper this wire to ground and see if these lights turn on or not.

Headlight switch is toast if the illumination fuse is good and the BTN fuse is good. Well maybe not the switch but the short harness is.

Pull the plug off the headlight switch and see if the white/green wire is toasted or not.

Okay, let me see, small recap:

White/green: 12V from 15A fuse
Red/black: ground via lights
Ren/green: Ill lights
Blue/red: Room/spot

All these @ the headlight switch

Green/white: Ign key illu

@ CPU

And, where is the CPU located? Never digged so deep in this car :P Ever..

Should I use the white/green as ground for the illu cable as well? So I can solder it straight into my new switch?

CPU is located next to the interior fuse box, it's closer to the door.

White/Green at the harness headlight switch is a voltage wire and not a ground. I think you mean that the W/G wire should power up both the R/B and R/G wires. If this is the case then yes.

Red/Black is not a ground.

Green/White is the ground for the key and door lock illumination.

Blue/Red is the voltage wire for the key and door illumination.

Satch:

Red/black is ground, it must be, as long as white/green is 12V, becuase that is the other cable thru the switch going to the lights :) Same with the red/green then, ground to the illu lights in the dash.

White/green needs ground to test you said, doesnt that make it 12V?

So I can connect this to any random ground and it should in theory work? The spot in the roof I mean..

No. Look at the picture attached. The R/B or red/black goes TO various light bulbs and those bulbs get their ground from the socket they are attached to via a near by ground point near those bulbs.

If you pull the electrical plug off the light switch, and then with a spare piece of wire bare at each end, jumper the W/G to the R/B............all those light bulbs the R/B is attached to will light up. Proving there is nothing wrong on that side of the circuit.

There are two wires connected to the small bulb found in the door lock cylinder and the ignition key cylinder. One wire has voltage while the other is a ground. The voltage wire is Blue/Red and the ground is Green/White. This circuit is not related to the headlight switch in any way shape or form.

In the headlight switch which is unrelated to the two small bulbs above, there is a W/G wire that provides the voltage to the switch. When the knob of the switch is turned the voltage on the W/G wire is then passed onto both the R/B wire so the tail lights come on and the R/G wire also receives power so the gauge and dash lights turn on. Any light that turns on because the R/B and R/G wire has voltage also has there own ground source connected to the light bulb so it illuminates properly.

Well, in theory then, it goes from the switch, to the bulb, then to the ground, so in a way, I was right ^^,

Quick EDIT: That is, from my view point of the switch, if you see it from the bulbs, you get 12V from the switch, and ground from the chassis.



But, my question remains, the roof spot, is that the red/green wire, and can I connect it to any random ground and make it work then?

The spot receives voltage via the Blue/Red wire! The ground for that light comes from the selector switch at the spot light. We've been through this at least two times already. The selector switch at the spot light dictates whether the light has a ground or not to complete the circuit. One switch position prevents the ground source from reaching the bulb so it stays off regardless of whether the door is open or not. A second position supplies the ground at all times thus forcing the light to stay on and the last position causes the ground to be supplied only when the door is open. Again, the only two wires involved are the power wire which is constant voltage and that would be the Blue/Red wire and the other wire is Green/White which is the ground source. The Red/Green wire is not related to the interior spot light but is related to the dash lights via the headlight switch.

Yeah I got that, but the problem is, where is this Blue/red wire? There are none in the headlight switch AREA at all.

So unless you forgot to say it is somewhere else, there is some different color coding on my car.

If the interior spot light is not related to the headlight switch then why would you expect to find a Blue/Red wire at the headlight switch?????????????????

The answer is there is no Blue/Red wire at the headlight switch.

The Blue/Red wire which supplies voltage to the interior spot light is found............. at the interior spot light!