Tail lights and front DRL stopped working
 

At the same time. Are those on the same fuse, and which? I can't figure out what fuse those are on, I have looked everywhere on the net, and none are saying anything about the tail lights.

15 amp Illumination fuse.

Doesnt that include the gauge cluster lights? Or am I way off now?

Yes.

Well it aint that circuit then, my gauge lights work like the should.

The light switch harness has a Red/Black wire which has power when the light switch knob is turned. This is the wire which powers the tail lights, parking lights, side markers, glove box and so on.

I have to go check if my side markers work.

If they dont, where does this cable fail usually? Any special weak spots?

Close to the headlight switch.

Okay, thanks. Will check later today when I fix my driver side window (relays).

Say that it aint this cable (I think it is, I have to hit the switch sometimes to get the gauge lights working, so it seems logical), are there anything else? I mean, my car does the weirdest things, so you never know.

Unplug the harness from the back of the light switch, you will see a fried pin at the switch and the harness. It is best to replace both of them.

I know I had a fried one, but it seemed to work forever, if you get me. Problem is, small electronics aint my speciality, so might be hard for me to change it. Might give it to my garage and see what they can do. As I said, I have to hit it sometimes to get the gauge lights on, so replacement might be the best solution atm.

Also, when I brake, my tail lights turn off, and only one break light works (or the hatch light works too, but of the two tail light brake lights, only one works). i've seen it on a Corolla before, and changing the bulb didnt work. This might be the same issue, with the wire?

One more question, how do I get out the pin from the plug, and where do I get a new pin?

EDIT: Both on the switch and the harness side. The harness is so short it is hard to get anything done there.

It is best to replace the harness, not just the connector. It is only about 18" long, then plugs into the dash harness

http://mazdatrix.com/Pictures/switch...htHarness1.jpg

Anywhere I can get that? Also, I think it was you that sold the BOP kits too, so if you got the harness in stock, I would be interested in buying some stuff from your site :)

Now, the air pump pipe is not connected under the car, so it is loose, making all kinds of noises. Not good, I know, but I live in Norway, ordering stuff from the US takes time and money.

We did not have DRL in the US on the 88 vert, there is a good possibility that your switch and harness are slightly different from the our version. If you want to take a chance with it, we could supply you with one from our Mazda dealer (prices are always lower than Mazdatrix), we could include it in the package with another purchase. Keep in mind you should replace the switch also, otherwise you will just short out the harness again.

I got a USDM Vert, so there shouldnt be a problem there. Also, it is the same switches.

As for the DRL, I mean the orange lights in front that is always on. We call them parking lights or DRL, depending on who you ask :)

That is what I am talking about, here the parking lights are not always on. They are off unless you put the switch in the middle position, but if you think that the US harness and switch will work with out any issues, they are still available new. I checked our inventory of used switch and we have a good S4 HL combo switch that we could sell you, but do not have any of the harness available used.

Pm

Oh, one thing. If you know what wire is going through the switch giving 12V to the lights, there must be a possibility to extend that wire, and put a switch on it? Just as a temporary solution until I receive a new one?

I don't want the police stopping me and giving me a 150$ fine for missing tail lights.

Post #6.

sheesh, $130 for a new harness? i'm sure there is a place to get replacement connector pins from to replace the 1 pin that tends to get fragged. dealt with it the other day and just used a pin from another and soldered it more solidly than the original tiny crimp.

Ill just get a new harness, half the plug is black, the switch itself is partly melted and so on. It is definitely worth the money over giving 150$ to the Norwegian government, who gives us roads like this for the money:
http://pub.tv2.no/multimedia/na/arch...76010216x9.jpg

Barely wide enough for two trailers to meet. That is the European Route 6, supposed to hold European standard. Kiss my behind. Rather fix my car for those pennies :P

One problem with the switch when I think about it:

My taillights, parking lights, side markers and glove box light works all the time, no matter what position the switch is in.

That shouldn't be a problem, if I get a new US one, as I can have it whatever way I like, as long as I got lights on when I drive, but mine doesn't work that way.

Norway are one of the few countries that got laws stating that you MUST have either parking lamps and fog lamps or low beams on when driving at all times.

EDIT: Since none responded yet, I will edit and say that in Norway we must use low beam or park with fog lamps as DRL at all times, and low beam/high beam after nightfall. Better explained than last time.

But as many import german cars, with the same switch as you use, it isn't illegal, as long as I turn the switch when I go out for a drive :) But this was off topic kinda, it doesn't solve my problem.

Okay, it wasn't the black/red wire, it was a white/black wire, last on the side where the clip is not, to say it that way.

Does this mean anythign to you? Anyone got a scheme/pinout to help out?

EDIT: Also, if that doesn't have anything with the light issues, what else can cause this?