tacometer not working
01-06-10, 05:33 PM
#26
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ok guys so im getting trailing coil spark, should i just try and find a new na cluster or get an aftermaarket 4in tach from the local auto shop? or is there another way to fix it?
01-06-10, 06:10 PM
#27
I don't remember what wire it is, but if you have a voltmeter then check for voltage at a)the output of the trailing coil, and b) the input of the tachometer on the gauge cluster. If you have power at a and not b, fuse/shorted wire probably. Power at a and b, then your gauge cluster is faulty. No power at a, then your trailing coil is faulty.
PS- the voltage should change as the rpm changes.
PS- the voltage should change as the rpm changes.
01-06-10, 08:22 PM
#30
The tach is driven off of the trailing coil. If the trailing coil doesn't fire the the tach won't work.
To the OP, try checking for spark on the trailing coil. If that is good then there is a blue and yellow wire iirc that drives the tach that connects to the trailing coil.
To the OP, try checking for spark on the trailing coil. If that is good then there is a blue and yellow wire iirc that drives the tach that connects to the trailing coil.
I thought it was just the OP that doesn't pay attention, I guess not.
to the OP dont just replace parts! Get a multimeter and test the thing properly. If you can't do that, then stop wasting peoples time and bring your car to the shop.
This is a very simple circuit in question.
01-06-10, 08:35 PM
#31
Sequentially broken
I'm unsure as to why you quoted me and then made that remark, as my post correctly identifies it as Y/L and not L/Y as you had previously done. Yes, the order is significant.
As for paying attention, you not only quoted your original color code post, but you also color'd it and red. I could assume that was an attempt to imply you already provided the colors and people overlooked it until I responded. In any event red is a good color because it was backwards and wrong.
As for paying attention, you not only quoted your original color code post, but you also color'd it and red. I could assume that was an attempt to imply you already provided the colors and people overlooked it until I responded. In any event red is a good color because it was backwards and wrong.
01-06-10, 08:47 PM
#32
I didn't say it was L/Y or Y/L I just said that it was blue and yellow. Sorry if I came off like a jack ***, but I guess I am just annoyed when people get on here ask for help then pay no attention to peoples remarks. People tell the OP that the trailing coil could have failed and he doesn't event bother to check for spark. Then rather to check that he decides he's going to just get a new tach and a coil as well.
To the OP, don't waste peoples time.
To the OP, don't waste peoples time.
01-06-10, 09:27 PM
#33
Sequentially broken
Double true. It's hard to help people when they don't do much in the way to help themselves, especially on the forum. People usually just want you to do the work for them and be like 'Yes, replace XYZ and you're good to go', they typically don't like to hear 'Check Y and Z and replace either if bad, or check X if those two are good instead.'
01-06-10, 09:32 PM
#34
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01-06-10, 11:10 PM
#36
Sequentially broken
Yes they did. The next step is checking/following the Y/L wire from the coil to the gauge cluster and the ECU and making sure it's not shorting on anything and that each gets a signal. After that, check the gauge cluster itself (along with the fuse/power source to the cluster of course), which is where I think the thread was at before we got mini-derailed.
01-06-10, 11:19 PM
#37
Yes they did. The next step is checking/following the Y/L wire from the coil to the gauge cluster and the ECU and making sure it's not shorting on anything and that each gets a signal. After that, check the gauge cluster itself (along with the fuse/power source to the cluster of course), which is where I think the thread was at before we got mini-derailed.
I apologize.
01-06-10, 11:47 PM
#38
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01-07-10, 04:52 PM
#39
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ok so i went down to auto zone and tested the coil and the yellow\blue wire amd all is working. When i hit the gas the meter was getting higher readings, so should i replace the cluster or get an aftermarket tach?
01-07-10, 05:05 PM
#40
Sequentially broken
Did you check the Y/B behind the cluster at all? I suppose you could check your cluster for cold solder/etc issues. I'm not a fan of giant tachs hanging around the interior so i'd just get a new cluster, they're dirt cheap.
01-07-10, 06:33 PM
#41
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yeah i checked it and its all working, i found a 4" one that what fit in my cluster area, but its $40. is it now safe to say the guage is what needs to be replaced?
