2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

tacometer not working

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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 05:33 PM
  #26  
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ok guys so im getting trailing coil spark, should i just try and find a new na cluster or get an aftermaarket 4in tach from the local auto shop? or is there another way to fix it?
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 06:10 PM
  #27  
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I don't remember what wire it is, but if you have a voltmeter then check for voltage at a)the output of the trailing coil, and b) the input of the tachometer on the gauge cluster. If you have power at a and not b, fuse/shorted wire probably. Power at a and b, then your gauge cluster is faulty. No power at a, then your trailing coil is faulty.

PS- the voltage should change as the rpm changes.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 06:13 PM
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The color is yellow/blue, both at the coil and the cluster.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ifryrice
The color is yellow/blue, both at the coil and the cluster.
thank you.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 08:22 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ITSWILL
The tach is driven off of the trailing coil. If the trailing coil doesn't fire the the tach won't work.

To the OP, try checking for spark on the trailing coil. If that is good then there is a blue and yellow wire iirc that drives the tach that connects to the trailing coil.
Originally Posted by ifryrice
The color is yellow/blue, both at the coil and the cluster.
Originally Posted by baughb'smx6
thank you.

I thought it was just the OP that doesn't pay attention, I guess not.

to the OP dont just replace parts! Get a multimeter and test the thing properly. If you can't do that, then stop wasting peoples time and bring your car to the shop.

This is a very simple circuit in question.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 08:35 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ITSWILL
I thought it was just the OP that doesn't pay attention, I guess not.
I'm unsure as to why you quoted me and then made that remark, as my post correctly identifies it as Y/L and not L/Y as you had previously done. Yes, the order is significant.

As for paying attention, you not only quoted your original color code post, but you also color'd it and red. I could assume that was an attempt to imply you already provided the colors and people overlooked it until I responded. In any event red is a good color because it was backwards and wrong.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 08:47 PM
  #32  
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I didn't say it was L/Y or Y/L I just said that it was blue and yellow. Sorry if I came off like a jack ***, but I guess I am just annoyed when people get on here ask for help then pay no attention to peoples remarks. People tell the OP that the trailing coil could have failed and he doesn't event bother to check for spark. Then rather to check that he decides he's going to just get a new tach and a coil as well.

To the OP, don't waste peoples time.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 09:27 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ITSWILL
I didn't say it was L/Y or Y/L I just said that it was blue and yellow.
True, though most people on here will go the FSM route and consider a secondary color a stripe.

Originally Posted by ITSWILL
I am just annoyed when people get on here ask for help then pay no attention to peoples remarks. People tell the OP that the trailing coil could have failed and he doesn't event bother to check for spark.
Double true. It's hard to help people when they don't do much in the way to help themselves, especially on the forum. People usually just want you to do the work for them and be like 'Yes, replace XYZ and you're good to go', they typically don't like to hear 'Check Y and Z and replace either if bad, or check X if those two are good instead.'
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 09:32 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by ITSWILL

To the OP, don't waste peoples time.
if somone feels like their time is being wasted they dont have to post... im just trying to get help, i do not do electronics, im more of a mechanical person, but i am learning
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 11:04 PM
  #35  
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Man, I would love to help.

You still haven't mentioned if you have spark on the trailing coil.

Do you have a multimeter? Your gunna need one.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 11:10 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by drake87
ok guys so im getting trailing coil spark, should i just try and find a new na cluster ....
Originally Posted by ITSWILL
You still haven't mentioned if you have spark on the trailing coil.


Yes they did. The next step is checking/following the Y/L wire from the coil to the gauge cluster and the ECU and making sure it's not shorting on anything and that each gets a signal. After that, check the gauge cluster itself (along with the fuse/power source to the cluster of course), which is where I think the thread was at before we got mini-derailed.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 11:19 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ifryrice
Yes they did. The next step is checking/following the Y/L wire from the coil to the gauge cluster and the ECU and making sure it's not shorting on anything and that each gets a signal. After that, check the gauge cluster itself (along with the fuse/power source to the cluster of course), which is where I think the thread was at before we got mini-derailed.
Good call, I completely misinterpreted what the OP said for saying that he was just going to buy a new coil and a cluster.

I apologize.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 11:47 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ITSWILL
Man, I would love to help.

You still haven't mentioned if you have spark on the trailing coil.

Do you have a multimeter? Your gunna need one.
post #26... hahaha, and no i dont have a multimeter, but i'll get one tommorow for sure
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 04:52 PM
  #39  
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ok so i went down to auto zone and tested the coil and the yellow\blue wire amd all is working. When i hit the gas the meter was getting higher readings, so should i replace the cluster or get an aftermarket tach?
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 05:05 PM
  #40  
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Did you check the Y/B behind the cluster at all? I suppose you could check your cluster for cold solder/etc issues. I'm not a fan of giant tachs hanging around the interior so i'd just get a new cluster, they're dirt cheap.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 06:33 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by ifryrice
Did you check the Y/B behind the cluster at all? I suppose you could check your cluster for cold solder/etc issues. I'm not a fan of giant tachs hanging around the interior so i'd just get a new cluster, they're dirt cheap.
yeah i checked it and its all working, i found a 4" one that what fit in my cluster area, but its $40. is it now safe to say the guage is what needs to be replaced?
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 08:47 PM
  #42  
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if you have power at the cluster, and that's the only gauge, then I think yes, asall the gauges are communaly grounded IIRC.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 08:49 PM
  #43  
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ok cool, i'll find a new cluster then, thanks a bunch, i'll get back to you as soon as i find and swap the new one in...
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