2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

t2 drive line na subframe

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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 11:21 PM
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From: Healy AK
t2 drive line na subframe

is there aything i can change out on the na diff that i can get the t2 drive shaft to fit?
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 11:31 PM
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You can buy a custom MazdaTrix TII tranny to N/A diff drive shaft
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 11:35 PM
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From: Healy AK
lol thats probabaly the only way huh?
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 11:37 PM
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or you can drill new holes on the drive shaft. Thats What i did!
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 11:43 PM
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From: Healy AK
Originally Posted by JDMFC3S TII
or you can drill new holes on the drive shaft. Thats What i did!
how big of a pain it the *** was that though?
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 11:52 PM
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It wasn't that bad it took me about fifteen minutes!I removed the pinion flange and centered it on the u joint flange and drilled away.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 12:00 AM
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From: Healy AK
cool then ill have to do that tommorow
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 01:58 AM
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Let us know how it turns out please
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 12:23 PM
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Ummm. why not just get a TII rear end? Open diff sucks.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 02:30 PM
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His profile says GXL, so the stock LSD is probably in the car. The NA diffs can hold up to more power than people give them credit for. 2.5 years with ~250 WTQ, and mine's still going strong.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 03:14 PM
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Does the FC use a crush sleeve for pinion bearing preload? It's really a crapshoot when you remove the pinion flange because you'll run into bearing wear issues if you don't do it right. I've seen many people use an impact wrench to torque down the nut, and end up driving the rollers into the race. Even if that doesn't happen, you're supposed to have the ring and carrier out of the differential in order to properly establish the bearing preload, which cannot be done with it on the car (IRS).

In other words, please don't mess with the pinion flange unless you REALLY know what you're doing. You could drill the flange on the car, so long as you get the driveshaft centered properly. Even better, you could make some paper patterns of each flange, then find the center of both, then phase them 90degrees out. Then cut THAT out of a piece of 1/4" plate. That way, you could bolt the adapter plate to the diff, then the driveshaft to the adapter plate. There are numerous ways to get around it, I just chose the easy route and had a local driveshaft shop customize my TII driveshaft. They had a flange that matched that of the NA rear end, and were able to weld it on. Even better, it had replaceable u-joints.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 03:59 PM
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Ineed!
Don't mess w/the diff, I took mine to a trans shop and even they messed it up! Found a whole t2 (10ae actually) rear end for $80 which I have swapped in until I can get my diff (w/all new bearings and seals ) rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by AGreen
. Even better, you could make some paper patterns of each flange, then find the center of both, then phase them 90degrees out. Then cut THAT out of a piece of 1/4" plate. That way, you could bolt the adapter plate to the diff, then the driveshaft to the adapter plate. There are numerous ways to get around it,
I agree with his method it would be easier and lessen the risk of ruining your bearings.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 05:49 PM
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From: Healy AK
I'm just goinbg to weld the hold one the diff flanges shut, then grind them smooth and drill out new holes, sound like it should work out fine? And its a welded rear end.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 06:06 PM
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From: Healy AK
actually lookin at everything I have a t2 and NA drive shaft is there a way to possibly change the ends of the two shafts? If so would it need to be rebalanced?
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 06:32 PM
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why not just use an auto shaft if you are keeping the N/A diff?

Yoke mates to T2 Trans and the flange mates to the N/A Diff...
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by The Wildchild
actually lookin at everything I have a t2 and NA drive shaft is there a way to possibly change the ends of the two shafts? If so would it need to be rebalanced?
Some shops will be able to swap the ends for you, or you can buy the Mazdatrix TII/NA driveshaft.

Originally Posted by nofords
why not just use an auto shaft if you are keeping the N/A diff?

Yoke mates to T2 Trans and the flange mates to the N/A Diff...
Then the yoke pops out of the transmission because auto shafts are 2" shorter than manual shafts.
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 09:55 AM
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are the yokes shorter or the whole shaft?

if it's just the shaft, you could swap yokes to the manual shaft with a set of RDL u-joints
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 12:42 PM
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From: Healy AK
Everything fits fine length wise its just the holes from the end of the drive shaft to the diff flange don't match up. More than likely im just gonna weld them shut and redrill the holes
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 01:48 PM
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The shaft of the automatic's is 2" shorter. Welding the holes shut is an option, but why not just drill the holes 90 degrees out? No need to weld then. Also, if the steel on the flange is harder than the weld, your drill bit will walk itself back to the softer weld material.

I've seen guys use automatic driveshafts with a 2" spacer and it works fine.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 04:11 PM
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From: va
all i did is pull the turbo yoke out and put it in the na diff and used turbo shaft on a 5 speed turbo trans
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