t2 drive line na subframe
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12-07-10, 03:14 PM
#11
Does the FC use a crush sleeve for pinion bearing preload? It's really a crapshoot when you remove the pinion flange because you'll run into bearing wear issues if you don't do it right. I've seen many people use an impact wrench to torque down the nut, and end up driving the rollers into the race. Even if that doesn't happen, you're supposed to have the ring and carrier out of the differential in order to properly establish the bearing preload, which cannot be done with it on the car (IRS).
In other words, please don't mess with the pinion flange unless you REALLY know what you're doing. You could drill the flange on the car, so long as you get the driveshaft centered properly. Even better, you could make some paper patterns of each flange, then find the center of both, then phase them 90degrees out. Then cut THAT out of a piece of 1/4" plate. That way, you could bolt the adapter plate to the diff, then the driveshaft to the adapter plate. There are numerous ways to get around it, I just chose the easy route and had a local driveshaft shop customize my TII driveshaft. They had a flange that matched that of the NA rear end, and were able to weld it on. Even better, it had replaceable u-joints.
In other words, please don't mess with the pinion flange unless you REALLY know what you're doing. You could drill the flange on the car, so long as you get the driveshaft centered properly. Even better, you could make some paper patterns of each flange, then find the center of both, then phase them 90degrees out. Then cut THAT out of a piece of 1/4" plate. That way, you could bolt the adapter plate to the diff, then the driveshaft to the adapter plate. There are numerous ways to get around it, I just chose the easy route and had a local driveshaft shop customize my TII driveshaft. They had a flange that matched that of the NA rear end, and were able to weld it on. Even better, it had replaceable u-joints.
12-07-10, 03:59 PM
#12
Ineed!
Don't mess w/the diff, I took mine to a trans shop and even they messed it up! Found a whole t2 (10ae actually) rear end for $80 which I have swapped in until I can get my diff (w/all new bearings and seals ) rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing
Don't mess w/the diff, I took mine to a trans shop and even they messed it up! Found a whole t2 (10ae actually) rear end for $80 which I have swapped in until I can get my diff (w/all new bearings and seals ) rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing
12-07-10, 04:55 PM
#13
I love my fc
Join Date: Apr 2008
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. Even better, you could make some paper patterns of each flange, then find the center of both, then phase them 90degrees out. Then cut THAT out of a piece of 1/4" plate. That way, you could bolt the adapter plate to the diff, then the driveshaft to the adapter plate. There are numerous ways to get around it,
12-08-10, 01:48 PM
#20
The shaft of the automatic's is 2" shorter. Welding the holes shut is an option, but why not just drill the holes 90 degrees out? No need to weld then. Also, if the steel on the flange is harder than the weld, your drill bit will walk itself back to the softer weld material.
I've seen guys use automatic driveshafts with a 2" spacer and it works fine.
I've seen guys use automatic driveshafts with a 2" spacer and it works fine.
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