Ok so im nearly a week away from my engine coming back from rx-7 specialists, The whole deal, ceramic 3 mm and street ported. my bov and intercooler are already at the shop waiting to be hooked up. so im just making a list of what else i need. heres where i need help as i am pretty new at this.

-FCD
-Walbro fuel pump
-720cc injectors
-boost controller (i was thinkin Apexi?what do u guys think?)

im planning for around high 300's with this set up, but as i said im new at this and i need to know if theres something i left out.

There Will Be pictures when i get it back

 

id get an electronic boost controller, my friends and i just installe done in a 323 gtx and it works great, it is simple as pie to install and it has 2 different settings that you can individually change (ie:low and high boost). I think it was a greddy profec boost controller. Im not saying this one is the best by any means, its just the only electric one ive used since a manual one and it worked great.

Oh and if those injectors are low impewdence make sure you get some sort or resistors according to the voltage in your ecu

 

You will need something to control those large injectors. S-AFC is the normal solution. But of course, if you have the knowledge and/or can afford the tuning, a standalone is best.

 

Who conned you into getting 3mm ceramic apex seals???


-Ted

 

What Aaron said. Simply throwing in bigger injectors will result is less power, not more, due to the far-too-rich mixtures. In fact you haven't even mentioned a turbo, so I guess you're running a stock one? If so, you don't need bigger injectors and you won't be getting anywhere near "high 300's".

 

ditto.




i hope you don't plan on running the engine on a regular basis, ceramic seals are for race applications only and 3mm ceramic seals i would expect do not last very long at that.. i think someone was using you as an experiment.

 

I don't know about the ceramic part, but 3mm seals will last longer than 2mm.

Mazda used to use 3mm seals in the older engines and those engines still to this day have more longevity than the 2mm engines that followed.

 

never. 3mm and 2mm could go on for years and has in teh preformance section.
and why the hell get ceramic seals. you will never rev that high with the stock cpu to even worry about it. youll need a standalone. you spent all that money on the engine dont skimp and get a safc and blow it. get a microtech or something!

 

i don't know that the 3mm ceramics would wear faster than 2mm but it seems logical. the ceramics wear tens to hundreds of times fater than steel seals.

 

That's interesting last I heard due to the thermal expansion properties of the ceramic engine pieces, ceramic was less damaging overtime to housings, the problem is that they are usually only used in race engines so we do not get a good idea of how they wear under normal daily driving.

--Fritz

 

well as far as i had read, the ceramic 3mm were supposed increase the life of an engine running high boost.

im guessing i will only be able to run my stock turbo at about 13psi, so i yeah ill need to upgrade that as well.

Stand Alone.... good call. that will be something to save for. im new to tuning so im appreciative of the advice thanks.

who makes a quality fuel managment sys?

 

No they won't.

Sounds like you're refering to detonation being more likely to break 2mm seals. Detonation is caused buy poor tuning and/or poor mods. In two otherwise identical engines that don't detonate, 2mm seals in one will last just as long as 3mm in the other.

Note also that later engines with 2mm seals are far more likely to be turbocharged, and in the hands of someone who is likely to cause detonation to occur.

 

duh, i'm confusing ceramic with carbon seals. i always get things backwards so when i do just kick me... carbon seals wear astronomically faster than steel, ceramics are good seals but not worth the money for average output engines. ceramic seals are more for 500+ RWHP engines.

 

i know

i plan on keeping this car for a while. im in it for the long haul and lots of horsies

 

why have ceramic seals without the large turbo? the ceramic seals cost $200 a peice, and u got 6 of them, thats 1200 plus install so we'll say your engine is now a $2000 project. And you kept the stock turbo???? Id like to see receipts for this transaction or im going to have to pull the BS flag on this one.

Also on another note, if this setup is true and u have retarded money to spend, get the haltech standalone, does all the neat tricks you want it to do, oh yeah and a t66 with a big ol FMIC, bigger turbo means you need bigger fuel. so 2 255lph fuel pumps on a fuel cell, 6 1000cc injectors FD upper intake, race exaust 4" all the way off the retarded size turbo, and there youd prob have a nice 10sec car. boosting around 32psi.

 

^ i like to start my projects at the most critical point and go from there, the engine is the critical point, the others are minor things that can be modified so put the BS flag away. i started my FC daily driver project by pulling the engine and streetporting it. i guess he just has higher aspirations than i do with mine.

 

i assure u its no bs, atached is the receipt of the the down payment for the motor.

and i dont have crazy money, i was just stuck between a rock and a hard place.

see my stock motor blew up on me on the highway and i needed to get a new engine. it just didnt make sense to put in the same N/A when i had plans of eventually doing the t2 swap. so i just went all out and decided if i was gonna do it nows a good a time as any.

 

that reciept looks like it has personal account info on it, i would delete it just for your protection. you don't need to prove anything here, at least i don't care about anyone's e-p33n size, i just like to help people out.

 

hahahaha Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiight but you get the point ok? hahahaha

 

PX Please be in attendance when they put those seals in. I would hate to spend 1.2k on ceramic strips that were magically metal when installed .

Basically I am just saying it seems way to easy to say here is the list of what we spent fixing your motor:

Seals 1.2k
New rotors 1k
New Housings 1.1k

etc. etc. when they use super beat parts that are used or worse, blown. Don't get screwed if you have got the dough to do it right. Make sure the person doing the work is someone you know and trust and make sure he isn't full of **** please.

--Fritz

 

Rx-7 Specialists are the ones rebuilding the motor. iv heard good things about them in the rotary world, so i trust em. maybe im nieve i dont know.

any ideas on actions i could take to insure they do install quality parts? besides being there as the do it?

 

i'm sure the ceramics have a distinct look to them, you can see the seals through the exhaust port. get them to show you a set of ceramics out of the engine and look at what they put in your engine after they have it assembled, maybe have a friend ask to see the seals first then bring him with you to see the motor so they will not try to decieve you.

 

i just looked up the two seals to see if there is a color dif. i cant really get a good idea but the ceramics def have a different look to em. ill compare my busted engine to the new one to see if i can scout any bs. u said i should be able to see them through the exhaust port. well ill be on it. ty

 

Nevermind the seals, what about the turbo?

 

Well for the cost of seals that he could possibly get ripped off for he could get a nice BB turbo, so I think it is a pretty important topic.

--Fritz