KrazyRX-7

The title says it all! my trans is in bad shape, i have to fight for at least 5 min to get it into reverse, when the car is not fully warmed up it grinds going into second, and a little bit when going into 3rd. when the car is running at idle and not in gear, there is a grinding noise coming from the transmission, if i press the peddle it stop's. and lastly i have a thumping when i shift into first.

The answer? and rebuild turbo 5 speed transmission, new 'aftermarket' drivshaft(rebuildable) from mazdatrix.com with a turbo lsd, and new mounts all the way around (engine too!) and top it all of with a short throw sifter. i want to get some info from you guys befor i start spending money on parts.

I have searched high and low for all the info i would need, i found out i need the flywheel back(clutch/pressure plate,ect,ect) from a turbo car, along with the master/slave cylinder, starter. and there will be some minor re-wireing. as well as the axles. is that all?

also, i wanted to get some info on what clutch will work from a "rode hard put away wet" street car, i was thinking a stage 1 would be just about perfect.. but then part of me says my car is a n/a...no need for a better than stock turbo clutch.
i was planing on using the stock flywheel(mostlikely used) unless you guys have a better idea. the other part i wanted some info on was the driveshaft, i liked the idea of the mazdatrix rebuildable shaft, but would like to get some opinions of them. and lastly what to do about a short thow shifter, they all seem to be right around $200 bucks. witch one should i go with? i want the shortest possible shift. well there you have it. any other tidbits you guys have while im trying to source parts would be great!!! also..i NEED used parts! am i to understand that i should be getting parts from a s4 turbo? or are the transmissions the same or what? thats the part im stuck on.. dont want to buy the wrong transmission/rearend for the swap:P thanks guys

solareon

iTrader: (1)

go with a stock clutch. unless you are a non driving moron who slips the clutch nonstop you'll be fine. The rebuildable driveshaft is nice because you can replace the u-joints if/when they wear out. On the short shifter you get what you pay for. Cheaper part = cheaper quality.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

An NA isn't going to make more torque than a TII did when stock, so the stock clutch will be fine. The flywheel is up to you - the stock one is quite heavy so if you have the money you might want to upgrade to a light steel aftermarket one. If you do, you will need to get an auto counterweight that matches the series of your engine - NA and turbo are the same within series.

KrazyRX-7

I was thinking stock would be a better choice becouse a built N/A has trouble putting down stock turbo numbers, and I can drive a clutch just fine:P I just got the car a few months ago and want to make a fun to drive DD car. at this point im going to get most everything from mazdatrix (driveshaft,shifter, clutch, hydrolics, and mounts) im still looking for the right combo on performance mounts/poly mounts to get the ride i want. and suggestions would be nice:P thanks guys

KrazyRX-7

now its time to talk mounts,i just want to make sure i have a full list of parts, i was going to get them from mazdatrix, am i counting all the mounts right for this project? 2 motor mounts, 2 mounts on the Y braket, along with a crossmember/w built in mount. and a total of 3 mounts holding the diff in place, one that has a counter weight, and 2 other, on the right & left side.
second part, how much do the mazdatrix.com comp mounts affect the car? i know there will be a more vibration, i dont mind some rattle but i dont want my car to dubble as a paint shaker....if using all comp mounts will make it to harsh for a DD, can i mix and match comp mounts with stock mounts to get a good balance? if so what is the right combo for a N/A 7 that is getting preped to be drivin like it was stolen? also i plan on using a RB engine brace if that makes and differince. thanks for all your help i am just about ready to buy parts, at witch point i will start a very detailed build thread for my car. i love all the support you guys give!

solareon

iTrader: (1)

I dd the mazda comp mounts with no problem. Not much vibration over the stockers

KrazyRX-7

perfect, comp mounts are cheaper would still like to know if i have a full list, i dont want to get it apart and then have to order somthing:P

jjwalker

The mazda comp mounts are just the mounts they added to the infini version. Cheap and easy to find. 30% (supposedly) stiffer than stock. I am running them and I get WAY less chatter from the clutch. I can rev my engine and the engine doesn't even torque itself, plus there is little to no vibration increase. I highly recommend them along with the others who posted about them.