it is time for some a new suspension system, what do you guys use/suggest? anything would be helpful
thanks.

 

what kind of money do you want to spend? you could spend anywhere from $250 to $4000usd on suspension...

here's a current thread in the susp. section
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=44900

here's some basic reading to understand everything
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/susptech.htm

 

a good, basic suspension upgrade is springs. they kill a lot f body roll, and stiffen the car up a good bit. if you want to go a little more serious, add shocks to make good combo. sprigs and shocks will dramaticaly increase your cars agility. my advice is to go with somthing adjustable. but dont forget tires. allthe suspension mods in the world dont mean crap if you have crappy rubber.

 

dont forget sway bars dude! thats all ive got and ive got ZERO body roll!! i love them!! they are my favorite modification yet!! i got them at racing beat in a suspension kit. it cost $400 for the 2 bars, and all 4 springs!! now i just need shocks, and ill be ready to roll. id like to get some JDM TII shocks if that guy ever replies to my post! :p so then i can install the springs, i havent done that yet since they will just get ruined by my broken shox/struts.

 

just get some kyb agx from www.k2rd.com for $350. the stock ones in japan probably won't be much better then yours. they will still be 10-15 years old...

 

Hmmmm.

After successfully autocrossing an FC, and setting up winning autocross cars of all sorts for a couple decades, my suggestion is simplicity. I used Tokiko sport springs and Tokiko HP struts. Stock Sport/Turbo swaybars. 1 degree negative camber on the front, 2 degrees negative rear. Replace the rear toe control bushings with the solid units from Pettit. Set toe at 0 in the rear, and adjust toe out from there to your comfort. Set front toe to 1/8" out.

I found the Tokiko rear srings to raise the rear of the car. Bad for the roll center, so I had them reduced by 3 coils to get the car to sit level. This kept the rear planted very nicely.

You don't need multi adjustible anything. Too many people outtrick themselves in this area. Part of driving fast is having a dependable, predictable, car under you. Since every other condition changes from track to track, changing your car adds one more variable. Unless you are so good a driver that your skill is not holding you back anymore, you need a stable, unchanging platform to learn to get the most out of it.

As I learned from top national champions, like my good friend Greg Fordahl: if he can get in my car and go another 2 seconds faster, it's me, not the car, that needs adjustment. If neither one of us can go faster, it's time to adjust the car.

When I was winning in my FC, and other FC owners would find out my setup, they would always tell me I needed to get (insert trick of the week here), like they had, to go fast. To which I would ask in response, "are you beating me?"

 

Oh, and as was said, don't forget tires. I used 225/50-15 Yokohama A008RSII autocross tires, and later, A032Rs. And those were my street driver tires, too.

 

Very well said. Giving yourself a baseline to work against for the season is the only way you know how much of your improvement is you and how much is from changing the car.

I'm lucky enough to be here in the Northwest where we run all the time with the Fordahls, the Babbs, Alan Dahl, Ron Bauer, and a crazy number of National Champs. Watching them run has taught me a ton.

Taking a course walk with Karen and Ron Babb was a revelation. Their approach to the course was SO different. And then watching them execute the plan. What a way to learn!

 

Tell me about it. I learned autocross in a big way back in '83 when I took one on one lessons from Ron Babb in my RX3. He and Karen are so precise and methodical.

I wanted so much to take my SVT to the Nats back in '99. I ran against Ron Baur in his ITR, and I could take him any day... hehehehe. I remember when he started out. Cool guy. I rebuilt his old 911 from a wreck at my shop.