I was looking at the post that had the way that Sureshot used to fix the wiper switch, but the thread's pictures aren't showing up. I was wondering if anyone had pics of what he did since I think I may have messed up the traces on my switch.

 

If you are talking about a wiper switch repair:

http://www.mazdamark.com/DIY_wiper_repair.htm

 

No, I already used that but thanks lol. I meant that I had already swapped out the relay but I think I messed up the traces because I went to test it and it would work but both high and low would be really slow and intermittent would work almost like the mist switch but it would just stop in the middle of the windshield.

 

I would take out my ohmmeter, and start testing connections that you think might be screwed up. Make sure you didn't accidentally solder joints together. Jumper connections with a wire where you might have lifted the trace off the board.

 

OK, I'll take a look at it with my meter, I already soldered a jumper but maybe it still isnt making contact.

 

mist stopping just stopping when turned off usually indicates that the relay #1 didn't get replaced correctly.

You probably ripped out traces at the relay holes when you removed the old relay.

 

I had dammaged traces when I did my wiper switch fix. All of the traces are surface and fairly easy to see. Did any little ring's come out still on the old relay? If so, those would be the pin's on the new relay that need to be jumpered to their destinations. If no rings came off or you don't know which pins are dammaged you'll have to go the multimeter route. Just follow the surface traces.

 

One of the rings did come out when I was removing it, I tried to use a jumper but I guess I'm not doing it right. Is there somewhere I can see where each pin on the relay goes because I tried putting a jumper where I thought the pin went but I guess I was wrong.

 

It is a double sided board, so it is kinda hard to figure unless you can read board schematics.

What pin pulled? I can tell you where it goes.

 

Relay number 1, the zero is the pin that I ruined the trace on looking at the side where you solder.
/ /
/ 0

/ /

 

Pic fixed.



-Ted

 

That will be your problem. Once Icemark tells ya where it goes you should be good. I know I pulled that one too but I did my fix over 8 months ago and I don't remember where it went. I would check the pin next to it too and make sure it's ok.

 

Been there, done that with the traces and have read SureShots thread in the past. There is another tack you can take.

Use the new relay you bought. Now you get some small gauge wire and solder a piece of it to each trace or remnants of the trace. Six wires total. The other end of the six new wires will now go to a pin on the new relay. Just match the new relay with where it WOULD have gone on the board. You can locate the new relay fairly near the old location.

A somewhat dark jpg attached of what I did. It works, but this cluster is just a spare I don't use on a daily basis

EDIT: Added a second jpg.

 

Now I just Icemark to show me where that pin goes and I'm all set, thanks guys.

 

could i send some1 my wiper cluster and pay them to put in a realy for me? pm me

 

What was fixed?

 

While we're waiting on Icemark, think about this:

The new relay only fits in the board one way. So. If you hold up your new relay (assuming it's identical to the old relay) you should be able to figure out where the new wires would go. Like in the jpg attached, the relay has two prongs seperated from the other four prongs on the relay. So it should be easy to look and see that, yes, those two go to the two on the board that are seperated from the other four. So run a wire from the two holes on the board to the two prongs on the new relay.

Maybe my pictures are too dark. The copper looking thing is the new relay. There are six black wires going from it to the board.

If your using some auto relay not similar to the factory ones, then just ignore this post.

 

I already have the new relay in, I just messed up the copper traces and I need to know where the pin goes so I can wire up a jumper.

 

Jumper it like this:


Make sure you do not let the jumper wire touch anything else, but the bad pin and the new connection.

 

OK, thanks I'll get on to gettin that fixed tomorrow.

 

OK, guys don't flame me for this but I think I might have ruined another trace. I feel like such a noob because I have decent experience with soldering but for some reason I messed up a bit with this project. Once again the zero is where I think I messed up. It might be safer to show me where all the points go that way I can stop bothering you guys with my mistakes lol.

/ /
0 /

/ 0

 

Did you test the switch after jumpering the one spot??

 

I haven't got a chance to yet but I saw some more copper rings because I had to remove the relay because I accidentally shorted some leads and ruined the new relay. I had a second one, but when I took the old one out there were more copper rings on the pins of the relay.

 

Ahhh, ic ic. Well if you can't see the traces and Icemark hasn't replied by tomorrow i'll be pulling the rest of the interior out of my car so i'll look at the traces for you and post it for ya.

 

OK, thanks for helping me out with my mistakes guys.