Cosmo Donk

Hello again everyone Time has been of the essence since I arrived back but I finally attacked my car to see if I can get it ready to start. I pulled the cobwebs off of it and did a few necessary things. I changed the oil, which was interesting, and drained the coolant. When I pulled the oil plug a bunch of water drained out first! I suppose I had condensation and then it separated but I poured through a new bottle of oil and then filled it up. Then I drained out the coolant, which there wasn't much of, not sure where it went. Now, here is the problem. I knew I shouldn't just crank the engine because it may have some problems inside. I pulled the plugs and the front rotor ones looked like they still had oil on them but the rears were a little scary. It looks like they have some rust on them. I hand cranked the engine and it wouldn't move at first. I squirted some oil into the rotors and worked it some more. I got it to move one compression so I put more oil in. When it rotated the rear squirted out some nasty green water so I am sure that's not good. I put more oil in and worked some more and then put oil through a vaccum hole in the intake. After that I worked it and now I get two compressions but it just doesn't want to go farther. I talked to GregW, seeing as how he is so busy, and he thinks it is a stuck apex seal. I would agree with him but I was wondering if anyone else has an idea If I have to pull the turbos I will just pull the entire engine and finish some things I never finished.

When I put it away I put a bunch of ATF in the engine if you were wondering. I probably didn't seal like I should have. Also, I know I should drain the gas before starting it

Thanks.

p.s. All plugs are out when turning.

jimmyv13

I replied to this over on the fc3s forum.

soul assassin

how long you back for?

Cosmo Donk

Thanks.

Manolis_D

iTrader: (2)

From the looks of things, it sounds like you have a bad coolant o-ring in either the rear side of the intermediate housing or in the rear housing. If this were the case, it would allow the coolant from your cooling system to seep into the rear rotor housing (that would explain the missing coolant). Then, when you cranked it, it would explain the green stuff (coolant squirting out). And, if it was bad enough, the coolant probably could've gotten past the oil control rings and found its way down into the oil pan (explaining why a bunch of water came out first).

Sounds like you'll be needing some parts for the rear 1/2 of the engine -- things are probably going to be rusty in there

Cosmo Donk

Ahh... That would make sense. Maybe after some more hand cranking I will see if the oil starts getting water in it. I guess it won't be going anywhere soon

Manolis_D

iTrader: (2)

Well, if it turns out that my guesses aren't too far off, and you pull the motor to rebuild it, there are many people on this forum with parts for your motor lying around, and probably for not too much money. What year is your car? Is it a turbo? Luckily (? ) lots of (turbo) motors are blown up, and when that happens usually only one of the rotors loses its seals, so you may well be able to find stuff for the other 1/2 of a blown engine to use in your rebuild.

adamlewis

ROCKY THE ROCK SPIDER!?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

this situation is what the atf trick is for....
just keep being gnetle with it for a little while. if that doesn't work just start the motor, that will break thigs free, although it may also break things expensive

mike

adamlewis

I also agree that youre leaking coolant into the block...And I dont know why more people dont think the same.

Lets see...
1) Water was in oil when you drained it
2) Radiator wasnt full when drained..
3) Rotor looks rusted and pumped out some liquid.


You dont have to be a rocket scientist to solve this one.

Cosmo Donk

Where did you hear that one

Yeah, the coolant seal is probably shot. Is it possible to pressure test a coolant system with no coolant in it? Can't you just fill it with 10psi of air and see if it drops?