Strut/Coilover Mount
#1
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Strut/Coilover Mount
Hi,
I was wondering if anybody can shed some light on a issue i have. I am currently installing coilovers in my 1987 Mazda RX7 FC S4. While uninstalling the rear struts. The left strut came out perfectly fine. While the right strut gave me a fight when taking off from the trailing arm. After prying hard on it. It came off. BUT the bushing and the metal sleeve stayed attached to the trailing arm. Any tips on removing the bushing and sleeve? My first issue is the bushing. I tried cutting it with a blade and barely got thru it. Maybe i just got a dull blade. But the biggest issue is the sleeve. Im a little hesitant to use flame due to it being right next to the gas tank. Also does the little nub come off the trailing arm? Because then i can take it to a press. Any tips would be great guys!
Thank you
Left side with clean release.
Right side with bushing and sleeve.
I was wondering if anybody can shed some light on a issue i have. I am currently installing coilovers in my 1987 Mazda RX7 FC S4. While uninstalling the rear struts. The left strut came out perfectly fine. While the right strut gave me a fight when taking off from the trailing arm. After prying hard on it. It came off. BUT the bushing and the metal sleeve stayed attached to the trailing arm. Any tips on removing the bushing and sleeve? My first issue is the bushing. I tried cutting it with a blade and barely got thru it. Maybe i just got a dull blade. But the biggest issue is the sleeve. Im a little hesitant to use flame due to it being right next to the gas tank. Also does the little nub come off the trailing arm? Because then i can take it to a press. Any tips would be great guys!
Thank you
Left side with clean release.
Right side with bushing and sleeve.
#2
Vintage sportcars
I had the same problem last week during the installation of my Tokico blues ...
It wasn't moving at all! So I sprayed some penetrating oil around the metal bushing that sits on the stub and let it sit for a while. Then with a flat screwdriver and a ratched extension, I hit the metal bushing from the outside (so it moves off the stub) Took 15 min or so and off it was. The screwdriver was just to hit the metal bushing. It only took a few hits.
The stub was slightly corroded. There should be some suspension grease on those components to prevent them from baking onto the stub. Remember when you put the new ones in.
Edit:
You probably don't need a torch (not recommended due to the sensitive location ...) After you got the bushing off, you might use a wrench (I believe you call them vice grip) to grip the bushing and turn it around to break it loose. Actually it should still turn because it does so when your suspension works. It always turns a litte bit on every bump. Once the suspension arm goes up and the damper compresses the stub turns a few degrees. I d be surprised if it was completely seized on.
It wasn't moving at all! So I sprayed some penetrating oil around the metal bushing that sits on the stub and let it sit for a while. Then with a flat screwdriver and a ratched extension, I hit the metal bushing from the outside (so it moves off the stub) Took 15 min or so and off it was. The screwdriver was just to hit the metal bushing. It only took a few hits.
The stub was slightly corroded. There should be some suspension grease on those components to prevent them from baking onto the stub. Remember when you put the new ones in.
Edit:
You probably don't need a torch (not recommended due to the sensitive location ...) After you got the bushing off, you might use a wrench (I believe you call them vice grip) to grip the bushing and turn it around to break it loose. Actually it should still turn because it does so when your suspension works. It always turns a litte bit on every bump. Once the suspension arm goes up and the damper compresses the stub turns a few degrees. I d be surprised if it was completely seized on.
Last edited by StevenL5975; 06-30-19 at 05:11 PM.
#3
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I had the same problem last week during the installation of my Tokico blues ...
It wasn't moving at all! So I sprayed some penetrating oil around the metal bushing that sits on the stub and let it sit for a while. Then with a flat screwdriver and a ratched extension, I hit the metal bushing from the outside (so it moves off the stub) Took 15 min or so and off it was. The screwdriver was just to hit the metal bushing. It only took a few hits.
The stub was slightly corroded. There should be some suspension grease on those components to prevent them from baking onto the stub. Remember when you put the new ones in.
Edit:
You probably don't need a torch (not recommended due to the sensitive location ...) After you got the bushing off, you might use a wrench (I believe you call them vice grip) to grip the bushing and turn it around to break it loose. Actually it should still turn because it does so when your suspension works. It always turns a litte bit on every bump. Once the suspension arm goes up and the damper compresses the stub turns a few degrees. I d be surprised if it was completely seized on.
It wasn't moving at all! So I sprayed some penetrating oil around the metal bushing that sits on the stub and let it sit for a while. Then with a flat screwdriver and a ratched extension, I hit the metal bushing from the outside (so it moves off the stub) Took 15 min or so and off it was. The screwdriver was just to hit the metal bushing. It only took a few hits.
The stub was slightly corroded. There should be some suspension grease on those components to prevent them from baking onto the stub. Remember when you put the new ones in.
Edit:
You probably don't need a torch (not recommended due to the sensitive location ...) After you got the bushing off, you might use a wrench (I believe you call them vice grip) to grip the bushing and turn it around to break it loose. Actually it should still turn because it does so when your suspension works. It always turns a litte bit on every bump. Once the suspension arm goes up and the damper compresses the stub turns a few degrees. I d be surprised if it was completely seized on.
#4
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Super crusty
Lol i got most of the bushing off today. Locked onto it with vise grips and gave the vise grips a good hit with a hammer and nothing. All the movement gets transfered to the trailing arm. Sprayed pb blaster in there as much as a could and will let it sit now.
From the looks of it it is veryyy crusty in there.
Final question is. Does the little **** come off the trailing arm? Because if so. I will take it off and press the sleeve off. Or cut the sleeve with a cutting wheel.
From the looks of it it is veryyy crusty in there.
Final question is. Does the little **** come off the trailing arm? Because if so. I will take it off and press the sleeve off. Or cut the sleeve with a cutting wheel.
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
Lol i got most of the bushing off today. Locked onto it with vise grips and gave the vise grips a good hit with a hammer and nothing. All the movement gets transfered to the trailing arm. Sprayed pb blaster in there as much as a could and will let it sit now.
From the looks of it it is veryyy crusty in there.
Final question is. Does the little **** come off the trailing arm? Because if so. I will take it off and press the sleeve off. Or cut the sleeve with a cutting wheel.
From the looks of it it is veryyy crusty in there.
Final question is. Does the little **** come off the trailing arm? Because if so. I will take it off and press the sleeve off. Or cut the sleeve with a cutting wheel.
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