Tech_Greek

Well, I'm running into a little problem when it comes to my self when working on cars, for some reason every bolt I touch likes to strip...

1) I weigh 160lbs
2) I am not buff or cut at all and can barely put any torque on anything.

So why is it for some reason whatever I'm doing is causing this? I think I get in a rush and possibly cross thread it with a ratchet...

1st Bolt) Alternator Bolt, actually using a bolt + nut to hold it up now (note not that best method, defintley works though).
2nd Bolt) UIM Bolt Hole...went to turn the stud down, worked perfect went to tighten nut down snug and it just started freely spinning...the stud wont stay seated now.
3rd Bolt) Main LIM Supercharger bolt...theres four bolts that hold it down, I've gotten three to go down without a problem but for some reason when I went to put the fourth one down it would not go down for me at all and kept cross threading, tried another bolt and it did the same thing for it so I just put the three in and went along with it...

Could this just be from so much use on the hole or what? Just the aluminum? I do have ft/lb ratchets, etc but never really use them (everyone always gives me the just make it snug thing).

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

a good rule of thumb when it comes to bolts and threads is just keeping them clean(especially ones like in your manifold that bottom out, make sure there's no crap in there)

But short of that.......Ive stripped bolts before, part of the way she goes.....

Its like saying you are a really good painter, but you've never hung a run in your life - doesn't happen.

Id say you've just had a string of bad luck - hehe

Tech_Greek

String of bad luck indeed, I've been full of bad luck for the past year!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You would be amazed how much torque a person can apply with a little lever assistance. And if you try and torque that M6 bolt down to 60 ft-LBs, well it's gonna' break.

It likely boils down to not being careful.

First, you need clean threads. Run a tap or chaser through them, or put a die on studs. Right here that eliminates a lot of problems.

If you are putting anything into aluminium, you need anti-seize. Without it threads tend to gaul and corrode very easily. I use anti-seize on EVERYTHING that does not require sealant or threadlocker.

Do you have 12 point sockets? Moving to a 6 point design helps eliminate rounding off nuts and heads.

You should be using a torque wrench. The M6 fasteners are generally only torqued to 10-15 ft-LBs, which is very little. The M8s are usually only about 20 ft-LBs.

This goes without saying but make sure that you are actually engaging the threads when you start the bolt/nut with your fingers. Go down as far as you can with your fingers so you can feel if it's getting bound up.

Also are you trying to use SAE fasteners in metric holes? Some of them match up closely and then you find out it's wrong when it's too late.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Those are some words of wisdom right there, especially the one about using 6 point sockets. Also, NEVER try to use a crescent wrench on anything that requires much torque at all.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

what aaron cake said about anti-sieze

I have to agree that is the MOST true thing... period.
it is definately needed to tighten any bolts on aluminum if you plan on ever taking them out, or not having the bolt break and stuck inside the aluminum

oakback

I used to break a bunch or strip, then I got a torque wrench. I torque everything to spec.

And like already mentioned, 6-point sockets help a lot, and even if I can't find my anti-seize I'll use something like pb blaster, or whatever lube spray I have, or at the very least make sure the hole is clean (blow out debris).

jgrts20

um the cars like 20 years old, what do you think man!! spray the bolts with some wd40 or something before you touch them, duh

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

WD 40 = useless
PB Blaster = not useless

SureShot

All the above - especially the torque wrench.

After wrenching Japanese bolts for a few years, you learn, as you turn the wrench, to feel if the threads or the shank is just starting to stretch. You just stop there.

Many bolts don't need to be tightened to max torque, just tight enough to not come loose.

Another trick is using a short stubby ratchet. (One of my favorite tools)
It's easier to spin & work in tight places, and its reduced leverage keeps you out of trouble.

AusTexRex

They've pretty much covered it. In order not to cross thread (after I've cleaned the bolts or bought new ones) I spin them by hand counterclockwise until I feel the thread drop slightly so I know its in position to be driven.

rodney87

Fix her for ya

jgrts20

well you know what I mean, some kinda bolt lube

Tech_Greek

No, I actually have both 6 and 12 point sockets...not a problem there

Thanks for the tip, the damn torque ft/lb wrench I'll be using a lot more for now on.

I actually did do this, it buggered up when I was threading it in by hand.

That's what happened with my alternator bolt! d'oh

What about using an air ratchet? Will it make any difference? I know not to use an impact gun though

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely not! If you are breaking things by hand, then don't even think about using power tools.