2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
Sponsored by:

Stripped Spark Plug Holes? Help!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-26-17, 11:04 AM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Atarashii Hito's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Stripped Spark Plug Holes? Help!

Recently attempted to replace my plugs and I believe that two of the plug holes are messed up.
(I have very limited rotary knowledge so pardon my crude explanation)

When removing the old ones for replacement, I noticed that the two plugs on the rotor towards the nose of the car were significantly more difficult to remove than the two on the rotor towards the cabin. The one I know is messed up is the Leading one. I haven't tried installing the Trailing plug yet, but I believe it will be messed up as well, as it was just as difficult to remove as that other one on the same "front" rotor. I think that the cause of the messed up holes is the old spark plug bonding with the threads of the hole (maybe due to excess heat? The engine overheated not too long ago) and that may be what messed it up.

I'm honestly not sure of the exact cause or what I should do. Does anyone have any ideas? I don't have the tools to remove the engine from the car. (It's an N/A, if that makes a difference.) Thanks in advance, guys.
Old 10-26-17, 12:04 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Mikelivi91's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Youngstown, OH
Posts: 258
Received 27 Likes on 24 Posts
If the plug refused to go back into the threads, or the threads are gone from it being cross threaded over the years, I would re-tap the threads. Take a tap and cover it in grease... The shavings from the spark plug hole will stick to the grease applied to the tap while cleaning up the threads. Make sure to go slow and clean off the shavings every few turns and apply new grease. It sucks, I know, but there isn't many options.

Option 2: Go get yourself some Helicoil. If your not familiar with Helicoil, do some research on goggle and youtube before you dive in. I must say its not the easiest thing to work with but once its on there its damn strong and worth the hassle. For a spark plug I would be skeptical but like I said there isn't many cheap options.

Good luck! Which ever fix you decide to go with just take your time and you'll be okay
Old 10-26-17, 01:15 PM
  #3  
(blank)

iTrader: (1)
 
pfsantos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: YYZ
Posts: 2,285
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
While the advice above is excellent, I'll say do not attempt yourself.

It seems you're not at a level high enough to try to fix the threads. If you eff up, you're looking at new housings and a complete tear down.

edit: This doesn't mean you have to take it to a shop. But at least find someone with previous experience dealing with messed up spark plug threads in aluminum (can be on a piston engine). You want a meticulous, experienced hand to do this without rushing.
Old 11-02-17, 12:18 PM
  #4  
Always Wanting to Learn

iTrader: (49)
 
DreamInRotary's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Cambridge, Minnesota
Posts: 3,078
Received 42 Likes on 40 Posts
Boy I'd be very curious to see how you'd drill that out with the engine still installed in the car...I'm guessing a 90 degree cordless drill would have to be used. It's aluminum, soft, old metal that's prone to cracking and if you go in crooked - no bueno.
Old 11-04-17, 08:24 AM
  #5  
Have RX-7, will restore


iTrader: (91)
 
mazdaverx713b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 21,713
Received 1,053 Likes on 892 Posts
If you remove the A.C. compressor and power steering pump and bracket, the spark plugs should be easy enough to get at with a tap. I bought a special spark plug tap from Matco for just such an occasion. Glad I haven't had to use it yet, lol.

What do the threads on the plugs look like that came out of the engine? Sometimes they can be tight coming out and you will see aluminum on the threads. This is of course not good but its workable.
Old 11-04-17, 11:00 AM
  #6  
Red Pill Dealer

iTrader: (10)
 
TonyD89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: O Fallon MO
Posts: 2,229
Received 3,757 Likes on 2,573 Posts
Helicoil taps aren't that much bigger than the actual tap for the original thread but will most likely still call for a tap drill. If it were me, I would see if I could get a reamer the size of the helicoil tap drill (MSC has reamers in .001" increments). Reamers follow the hole and can't be forced to "walk" like a drill and don't end cut. You might have to cut a good amount of the shank off but that's not really a big deal. I would also half-*** grind some flats for a small adjustable wrench and try doing it by hand before going to anything powered. Have another set of eyes looking from the front of the car to tell you if you have it angled up or down while you keep square left to right. It will seem iffy at first but will start to guide itself as it machines the threads out. I would also coat it well with grease, remove, clean, and reload with grease often. I've been a machinist for thirty years and have been in many similar situations. Just be very careful and don't rush it.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:02 PM.