strength of turbo II diff and transmission?
strength of turbo II diff and transmission?
Under mild driving/street use. No high rpm clutch drop, no slick use, no transmission "thrashing" into gear etc. just your average rolling pull maybe once in a while from a dead stop.
What is the average Torque capacity of these unit? diff? transmission?
my search yield results that are all over the place from 300-500+hp.
but what about the torque? Ive always thought that torque are what wrecks drive line parts, yet theres no mention of it.
Im planning a build for street use and aiming for 600-650whp w/ most likely around 550w torque.
2.4L inline if that matters and concern about the driveline use.
I want everything to be capable and reliable since i will be commuting in this 50-80mi a day.
if The driveline wont hold then I rather decide now if I want to lower that number or look for an alternative driveline.
I really dont want to spend to much on driveline specially since it will be my beater car lol
What is the average Torque capacity of these unit? diff? transmission?
my search yield results that are all over the place from 300-500+hp.
but what about the torque? Ive always thought that torque are what wrecks drive line parts, yet theres no mention of it.
Im planning a build for street use and aiming for 600-650whp w/ most likely around 550w torque.
2.4L inline if that matters and concern about the driveline use.
I want everything to be capable and reliable since i will be commuting in this 50-80mi a day.
if The driveline wont hold then I rather decide now if I want to lower that number or look for an alternative driveline.
I really dont want to spend to much on driveline specially since it will be my beater car lol
Synchros will make a grinding sound after enough mis-shifts. I've never seen one break from the kind of driving you are describing.
Basically, get a T2 transmission. Take it somewhere to get rebuilt if it's grinding on shifting--it's similar to the old Ford Ranger manual transmissions in terms of its internals. It won't give you problems after that unless you seriously abuse it.
The non turbos driveline will blow up. I've broken the transmission and the diff on an n/a FC just from abusing it with an actual n/a engine.
Basically, get a T2 transmission. Take it somewhere to get rebuilt if it's grinding on shifting--it's similar to the old Ford Ranger manual transmissions in terms of its internals. It won't give you problems after that unless you seriously abuse it.
The non turbos driveline will blow up. I've broken the transmission and the diff on an n/a FC just from abusing it with an actual n/a engine.
2.4L inline engine? I would go with the transmission upgrades that the engine you are using fits. With 600whp, I'm pretty sure your going to look into a t56 transmission or a race transmission with custom bellhousings and clutch. That is a ton of hp for the street, especially a 2.4L engine
2.4L inline engine? I would go with the transmission upgrades that the engine you are using fits. With 600whp, I'm pretty sure your going to look into a t56 transmission or a race transmission with custom bellhousings and clutch. That is a ton of hp for the street, especially a 2.4L engine
Post from the ls1 crowd seems to say 500 is their reliability if at that.
And not really I was at 530 whp on a 2.0l.just looking for a few more this time around. I
And factory transmission won't work. Nor can it hold this much power.
T2 is the cheapest option then it's the Toyota r154 which I know for sure can hold that power - first hand experience. But that's about 1k to set it up properly.
About about the differential? Any thoughts?
I highly doubt the 13bt transmission is as strong as a t56, but please correct me if I am wrong. The 13brew transmission is stronger than the 13bt transmission. But like I said in the first post, I would just go with whatever transmission upgrades that go with the engine conversion you are doing.
If it requires custom work to mate a transmission on an engine. Besides the engine and tranny going in requiring custom fabrication, why go with a 13bt transmission? That is just my opinion. you'll only be saving the hassle of a custom driveshaft and transmission crossmember.
If it requires custom work to mate a transmission on an engine. Besides the engine and tranny going in requiring custom fabrication, why go with a 13bt transmission? That is just my opinion. you'll only be saving the hassle of a custom driveshaft and transmission crossmember.
a 2.4L isn't going to have a radically different power band than an RX7 when you start cranking up the boost, it should actually be more helpful to the transmission since it will probably have a lower redline.
but if you want an idea of it's strength, people have managed to come close to running into the 8's in the 1/4 with bone stock driveline components. 3rd gear being the weak link and of course snap shock of the drivetrain if you don't know how to launch will break even the strongest of components.
the REW transmission is virtually identical to the 13BT transmission and they both have equal footing, i'm not sure why this rumor keeps spreading.
the T56 should be more durable than the turbo transmission, keep in mind the power levels they claim on other forums are in cars that are much heavier than the RX7. more weight means the transmission needs to work harder to push the car along. if the car weighs less, the transmission labors less and will break at higher levels.
but you will need to fabricate an adapter and a modified clutch. is it all worth it?
but if you want an idea of it's strength, people have managed to come close to running into the 8's in the 1/4 with bone stock driveline components. 3rd gear being the weak link and of course snap shock of the drivetrain if you don't know how to launch will break even the strongest of components.
the REW transmission is virtually identical to the 13BT transmission and they both have equal footing, i'm not sure why this rumor keeps spreading.
the T56 should be more durable than the turbo transmission, keep in mind the power levels they claim on other forums are in cars that are much heavier than the RX7. more weight means the transmission needs to work harder to push the car along. if the car weighs less, the transmission labors less and will break at higher levels.
but you will need to fabricate an adapter and a modified clutch. is it all worth it?
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Oct 8, 2013 at 12:09 PM.
a 2.4L isn't going to have a radically different power band than an RX7 when you start cranking up the boost, it should actually be more helpful to the transmission since it will probably have a lower redline.
but if you want an idea of it's strength, people have managed to come close to running into the 8's in the 1/4 with bone stock driveline components. 3rd gear being the weak link and of course snap shock of the drivetrain if you don't know how to launch will break even the strongest of components.
the REW transmission is virtually identical to the 13BT transmission and they both have equal footing, i'm not sure why this rumor keeps spreading.
the T56 should be more durable than the turbo transmission, keep in mind the power levels they claim on other forums are in cars that are much heavier than the RX7. more weight means the transmission needs to work harder to push the car along. if the car weighs less, the transmission labors less and will break at higher levels.
but you will need to fabricate an adapter and a modified clutch. is it all worth it?
but if you want an idea of it's strength, people have managed to come close to running into the 8's in the 1/4 with bone stock driveline components. 3rd gear being the weak link and of course snap shock of the drivetrain if you don't know how to launch will break even the strongest of components.
the REW transmission is virtually identical to the 13BT transmission and they both have equal footing, i'm not sure why this rumor keeps spreading.
the T56 should be more durable than the turbo transmission, keep in mind the power levels they claim on other forums are in cars that are much heavier than the RX7. more weight means the transmission needs to work harder to push the car along. if the car weighs less, the transmission labors less and will break at higher levels.
but you will need to fabricate an adapter and a modified clutch. is it all worth it?
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I don't know why so many people think the T56 is some kind of holy grail transmission upgrade for FC and FD's. They are awful transmissions. I have one in my '05 CTS-V. They're clunky and noisy with notchy shifting and aren't great at getting into 1st and Reverse gear either with the stock linkages. Now, the availability of hardened T56 internals is probably better but I can't say I've looked into it.
Unless you are trying to do some hardcore drag launches with sticky tires you should not need anything stronger than a T2 transmission with a basic overhaul. If you are planning to do so, you might as well go with an auto tranny anyway because manual transmissions suck for serious drag racing.
Unless you are trying to do some hardcore drag launches with sticky tires you should not need anything stronger than a T2 transmission with a basic overhaul. If you are planning to do so, you might as well go with an auto tranny anyway because manual transmissions suck for serious drag racing.
The T56 is geared like a 5 speed with an extra overdrive. Just like the new TR7070 in the C7 is geared like the T56 but with a 3rd overdrive. It's a terrible match for cars with big single turbos, which can't make much boost at high gear/low rpm.
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