kidcaffeine

I purchased a motor from DIRTYSOUTHROTARY.com thought ebay, and i took my car to a shop in NJ to do the swap, he wanted to charge me 700 then other parts as he went along, throughout the entire installation the told me that the flywheel was really tight to turn by hand before he installed it in the car. He told me over and over the car isnt going to start, he got it to start after putting ATF fluid in it. The day I went to pick it up he was putting it in his garage and he said it SEIZED. It locked up and he not going to do anymore to it. My question is does that even happen, i called the company who built it, they said they dont have a problem taking back the motor to look at it, but their sure that their is nothing wrong with the motor they test the compression before they ship it. They said that cant happen there is nothing to actually seieze the motor. Unless the housing became warped due to overheating and that would be a problem with the installaton, PLEASE POST AND IDEAS OR SUGGESTIONS IM IN A BIG MESS !!!! thank you; JOSE

kidcaffeine

Please someone help me i dont know what to do please

Bio-Weapon

Just a question, this 'shop' in NJ, is it a rotary specific shop? Or just a general auto garage?

kidcaffeine

He isnt just a rotay specialist, but he has a couple outside his shop, and he used to have like a 10 second 2nd gen, i dont know what to do bro and help would be appreciated, I was reading and they said these motors can seize, but i was on like 3 times before it seized for like 20 mn at a time

fg0d

He's lieing to your ***, go back to the mechanic, and threaten the bastard. The car was in his hands, you paided him for the work, and he fucked up. I would take his *** to small claims court and bring the compression test, and a transcript of what the engine company told you.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I am a rotary engine builder myself. The thing should turn pretty freely by hand. A little stiffness when new (with new bearings) is somewhat normal. A lot of stiffness indicates problems with bearings, or maybe even excess carbon buildup under apex seals.

I think it's damn unusual for the thing to start and run for however long you said it did, 30 minutes or something, and then lock up. Generally if you have trouble it will come in the first 5 minutes of run time. OR it will happen later in life when you start pushing it hard.

Sounds like your mechanic has a good idea what he's doing, I wouldnt place blame on him. There is really nothing you can do on the installation of accessories to cause an engine to lock up...that is all internal.

kidcaffeine

let me ask you this ROTARY RESERECTON, the motor before it goes out goes through testing, corect? if you send out rebuild you know what im talking about, then to top it of the motor has a two year 24000 mile warrenty, i doubt a company would send out a motor with bad internals, knowing they would get it back and have no choice but to send me another one, now either this MECHNIC messed up somewhere, cause most of the seized motor posts ive read said there motors seize after one hundred thousand miles of usage. I dont think that a person like you thats rebuild motors, would do a bad job only to harm yourself? am i right? The motor turned on, it ran, then it shut down? what could be the problem?

SpeedFreak03

OK in my opinion this is partially your fault...if he warned you about all this, and you let him install it anyway without first contacting the builder, then it isn't the installer's fault! He warned you that it wasn't going to work right but you let him install it anyway. Oh well good luck man!

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I agree for the most part with this. You shouldnt place blame on the installer, IMO.

Mine do, but not until recently. I still can't test run FD engines due to the differences in design...I test all 91 and prior engines before shipment (that I dont install myself anyway).

But, not all builders, especially the smaller shops, do this.

Well, you never know, **** happens. You can't control everything, and sometimes you have bad materials that appear to be good but have some small flaw hidden somewhere, or maybe you just plain have a bad day and **** some **** up. It doesnt happen often (to me) but it does happen, and is fully within the realm of possibility.

Not intentionally, obviously not. BUt like I said, **** happens, and sometimes your work doesnt stand up.

By locked up you mean will not turn even if forced by hand or tools on the front crank pulley or by putting the car in gear and rolling it? IF the engine is truly locked then some things inside are fubar.

Sounds like it could be an oiling or bearing failure. There is a tiny key on the oilpump that, if not installed properly (it is 2mmx5mmx3mm or so, VERY easy to lose track of) can cost you an engine in a matter of seconds. Regardless, if it is locked up, you need to get with your builder.

Now, if you're saying that it starts, runs, and then dies, well, that is totally another story, and is likely the installer's problem.

importedrx7

hey you bought an engine from Brent kool beans does the engine look good?
im getting a t2 conversion done by him

kidcaffeine

Then engine was real nice and when it was running it sounded amazing. I just hope i get it back soon so i can actually start driving it!!!

kidcaffeine

The motor ran 1st for 15 min then second for 30 min the a third time for about 45 min and at the fourth time if ran for 5 min then just seized!! I have never read of such a thing happening

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I was just going to say that. If the washer on the oil pump nut was not properly crimped, then the nut can loosen and cause the key to fall out and the sprocket to freewheel. Thus, no oil pressure.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

This guy has never answered my question. Is it LOCKED up as in WILL NOT TURN AT ALL, or is it just refusing to start?

kidcaffeine

Locked up up the mechanic can not even turn it with a wrench...