Strange problem, ignition I mean with 87 TII
#1
Strange problem, ignition I mean with 87 TII
Been having problems with ignition.
Using haltech e6k, stock ignitors/coils and stock CAS. The setting are to
spec and ran fine for a year.
A month ago I decide to finally install my new FMIC kit. After two weeks installing the thing, I got to drive my car. Instead of performance, what I got is fireball and back fires.
It idles ok, revs fine. Goes around fine, but when I get to boost around 2.5k to 3 and up, on boost, the car backfiries and bucks, the tach goes crazy.
I did data logging on the haltech. What I have noticed on my data log as the car accelerates in 1st and
2ng gear (both worse than 3rd), the rpm will jump to 10k or to 16k
then back normal, then drop from 5k to 2k back to 5k. The car's tach,
which runs off the trailings not haltech, will bouce back and forth.
Would this be the cause of a bad Crank angle sensor? So I check changed it today and still the same.
Someone suggestted to unplug and replug the haltech big harness plug at the ecu cause it could of come loose.
Another thing is, I did replace the spark plugs at the same time as the FMIC. you think I got bad spark plugs??
ANyone with this experience.
I have posted this on the haltech list too.
C
PS I have also swap out the coils along with the CAS
Using haltech e6k, stock ignitors/coils and stock CAS. The setting are to
spec and ran fine for a year.
A month ago I decide to finally install my new FMIC kit. After two weeks installing the thing, I got to drive my car. Instead of performance, what I got is fireball and back fires.
It idles ok, revs fine. Goes around fine, but when I get to boost around 2.5k to 3 and up, on boost, the car backfiries and bucks, the tach goes crazy.
I did data logging on the haltech. What I have noticed on my data log as the car accelerates in 1st and
2ng gear (both worse than 3rd), the rpm will jump to 10k or to 16k
then back normal, then drop from 5k to 2k back to 5k. The car's tach,
which runs off the trailings not haltech, will bouce back and forth.
Would this be the cause of a bad Crank angle sensor? So I check changed it today and still the same.
Someone suggestted to unplug and replug the haltech big harness plug at the ecu cause it could of come loose.
Another thing is, I did replace the spark plugs at the same time as the FMIC. you think I got bad spark plugs??
ANyone with this experience.
I have posted this on the haltech list too.
C
PS I have also swap out the coils along with the CAS
Last edited by turborotor; 04-12-02 at 08:19 PM.
#3
Thanks Ted,
Thanks I did use the flying lead and didn't do a good job in the soldering. I"m going to re-splice and resolder the 4 wires going to the CAS and check the haltech plug end on the ecu.
I reused the mazda plug at the CAS for conveniece so I can swap out CAS with no problems. Is that a good idea like I had it?
Carlos
Thanks I did use the flying lead and didn't do a good job in the soldering. I"m going to re-splice and resolder the 4 wires going to the CAS and check the haltech plug end on the ecu.
I reused the mazda plug at the CAS for conveniece so I can swap out CAS with no problems. Is that a good idea like I had it?
Carlos
#4
Lives on the Forum
That's fine...are you still using the shielding on the wires, right?
Redo the ingition input trigger wire(s) - it's VERY important these have good connections!
-Ted
Redo the ingition input trigger wire(s) - it's VERY important these have good connections!
-Ted
#6
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by turborotor
Yup, shielding all the way.
Yup, shielding all the way.
Ground the shield only one ONE side.  We tried to ground both sides, and this caused all kinds of stupid problems!
-Ted
#7
Re spliced and soldered the harness at the CAS. There only 1 inch of the wires not being shielded after the CAS plug, is that ok. I used shrink tubing and wrapped it in electrical tape.
Car started fine but didn't have time for a test drive. I will do that after I get back from work. I hope this works.
C
Car started fine but didn't have time for a test drive. I will do that after I get back from work. I hope this works.
C
Trending Topics
#8
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by turborotor
There only 1 inch of the wires not being shielded after the CAS plug, is that ok. I used shrink tubing and wrapped it in electrical tape.
There only 1 inch of the wires not being shielded after the CAS plug, is that ok. I used shrink tubing and wrapped it in electrical tape.
-Ted
#9
Still have the problem. I'm sending the unit to haltech
for repair.
I have changed the coils, CAS, check the wires to cas, repliced them
again. Disconnected the big plug to the haltech ecu and reconnected,
played with the setting.
The car ran fine before, all I did was add a FMIC and new spark
plugs. I'm using a 65 degree trigger angle and have tryed various
settings on the gain.
This ecu is going down for repairs, thanks
Carlos
for repair.
I have changed the coils, CAS, check the wires to cas, repliced them
again. Disconnected the big plug to the haltech ecu and reconnected,
played with the setting.
The car ran fine before, all I did was add a FMIC and new spark
plugs. I'm using a 65 degree trigger angle and have tryed various
settings on the gain.
This ecu is going down for repairs, thanks
Carlos
#10
Seems like I fixed the car now, don't know how really
but seems to run like it used to.
I called the haltech people at texas cause I was going to send the
ecu. The nice guy on the phone asked me a few questions about my
problems. I told him and he asked if I can run the car with little
load up to redline, I told him yes. He then suggested that it might
be tuning or something running close to the trigger cables. He told
me to try to run the wires as far as possible from the spark plug
cables.
Here is what I did next. Had another pair of coils to try out so I
said, what the hell. I put them on. Also put on some old spark plug
wires that came with the coils, seem to be originals from the
factory. Plug them in and ran them away away from the cas, basically
under and up the left shock tower and plug them in. Ran another cable
for ground to the leading coil since it was relocated because of my
new FMIC.
Last thing I did was lower the boost.
Took it out for a test drive and the car fuctioned normally. Drove it
hard for 20 minutes and no problem.
Tommorow i'm going to change the fuel filter anyways and turn up the
boost and see what happens.
C
but seems to run like it used to.
I called the haltech people at texas cause I was going to send the
ecu. The nice guy on the phone asked me a few questions about my
problems. I told him and he asked if I can run the car with little
load up to redline, I told him yes. He then suggested that it might
be tuning or something running close to the trigger cables. He told
me to try to run the wires as far as possible from the spark plug
cables.
Here is what I did next. Had another pair of coils to try out so I
said, what the hell. I put them on. Also put on some old spark plug
wires that came with the coils, seem to be originals from the
factory. Plug them in and ran them away away from the cas, basically
under and up the left shock tower and plug them in. Ran another cable
for ground to the leading coil since it was relocated because of my
new FMIC.
Last thing I did was lower the boost.
Took it out for a test drive and the car fuctioned normally. Drove it
hard for 20 minutes and no problem.
Tommorow i'm going to change the fuel filter anyways and turn up the
boost and see what happens.
C
#11
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
For what little its worth.........the stock ignitor/coil assy have to be physically grounded. If not, they do not fire. Try it sometime. Just lay them on top of some rags. They won't fire. They need their body grounded.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 07:16 PM
Nosferatu
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
7
09-05-15 02:13 PM