In storage for 8 years
12-30-16, 02:23 PM
#76
i set it to about 850 when warm, the spec is lower but these are 25 year old rotary engines and you don't want to stall out in a bad spot.
the BAC should have raised the idle, i suspect you may have some smaller vacuum leaks still present. a can of carb cleaner on the engine running will help you pinpoint any. keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case though.
worst case, you can manually raise the idle with the idle screw on top of the throttle body, and adjust the fuel trim with the variable resistor. this will offset small vacuum leaks.
the BAC should have raised the idle, i suspect you may have some smaller vacuum leaks still present. a can of carb cleaner on the engine running will help you pinpoint any. keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case though.
worst case, you can manually raise the idle with the idle screw on top of the throttle body, and adjust the fuel trim with the variable resistor. this will offset small vacuum leaks.
12-30-16, 04:06 PM
#79
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Yes it did smoke at first! It's starts getting rough just under 1000 rpm. When I turn the car off I can hear a sucking sound by the brake fluid area. Cannot nail it down exactly yet. Thanks again everyone for your input. Could not.do it without yall!
12-30-16, 04:47 PM
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Ok. Running better when I took off the vac line going to booster brake and capped it. I must have a bad booster. Still running a little rough but it's staying running without it dieing on me. Progress
Last edited by James Allen; 12-30-16 at 04:55 PM.
12-30-16, 06:26 PM
#81
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So the antenna works and there are lights on the equalizer but nothing on display. I think it may be shot. As the wheels go, I hate to say the sky is the limit but if they look good...welll... I am leaning toward mustang wheels.. maybe silver in color or gunmetal 17x8 or 17x9 with either 235 40 or 225 45 tires. But hell the more I look the more confusing.
12-30-16, 08:18 PM
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Good point. I will need to check this out tomorrow. When I was reinstalling this sensor, the end got bent so slightly as it was caught behind the actuator as I was screwing in the sensor bracket. I realized what was happening and took it back out and the sensor end was bent slightly and got stuck when I pushed it in. I managed to get it pulled back out and bend the end back straight so that it would go in and out. But by doing this I may have messed it up. I will check the resistance tomorrow. Thanks
12-30-16, 08:21 PM
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i set it to about 850 when warm, the spec is lower but these are 25 year old rotary engines and you don't want to stall out in a bad spot.
the BAC should have raised the idle, i suspect you may have some smaller vacuum leaks still present. a can of carb cleaner on the engine running will help you pinpoint any. keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case though.
worst case, you can manually raise the idle with the idle screw on top of the throttle body, and adjust the fuel trim with the variable resistor. this will offset small vacuum leaks.
the BAC should have raised the idle, i suspect you may have some smaller vacuum leaks still present. a can of carb cleaner on the engine running will help you pinpoint any. keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case though.
worst case, you can manually raise the idle with the idle screw on top of the throttle body, and adjust the fuel trim with the variable resistor. this will offset small vacuum leaks.
12-30-16, 09:02 PM
#84
The BAC has a very crude (and largely ineffective, imo) "reverse heatsink", meant to keep the actual valve at a stable temp BUT the water never comes into contact with the internals of the valve.
Undo two screws and the water line is just sitting on the external case of the BAC.
Whatever might be wrong with the BAC, the coolant ain't the issue.
Undo two screws and the water line is just sitting on the external case of the BAC.
Whatever might be wrong with the BAC, the coolant ain't the issue.
12-30-16, 09:22 PM
#85
the thermowax is susceptible to coolant corrosion plugging, one point in that is where it crosses over the BAC, but the BAC and coolant don't really coincide much together. the thermowax would cause a high idle, so that isn't the issue. i wouldn't spend too much time on all that, the brake booster issue is showing you that the engine is running lean and pointing to vacuum leaks.
01-01-17, 11:03 AM
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Happy New Year! So while I wait for my brake booster to come in, I looked into why it was still a little rough at idle. In matter of fact, if I rev it up and let my foot off the gas it would not catch itself and die. I checked the BAC and it was good, I set the resistance of the TPS to 1K but no luck with the idle. So then I dug out the glue on top of the variable idle resistor and turned the screw full clockwise. It now runs very smooth at about 800 rpm. Do yall think there might be another problem and I just covered it up my adjusting the Var Res.? Thanks
01-01-17, 03:01 PM
#87
It should not require you going full rich on the variable resistor.. Me thinks you've got vac leaks coming out of your ears. Storage or not, it may be worth verifying the timing.
Have you metered your Coolant temp switch behind waterpump housing?
Some vehicles are sensitive to deposit buildup around the throttle plates, which effectively seals a metered air gap between the plate and the port itself.
Have you metered your Coolant temp switch behind waterpump housing?
Some vehicles are sensitive to deposit buildup around the throttle plates, which effectively seals a metered air gap between the plate and the port itself.
01-01-17, 03:24 PM
#88
Have you metered your Coolant temp switch behind waterpump housing?
.
.
I'd think it most useful to test at the ECU as it confirms the sender and all the connectors/wiring are good as well.
Rock Auto sells those thermosenders really cheap.
01-01-17, 03:34 PM
#89
Agreed, clokker.. Something I learned from HAILERS a long time ago was to meter certain things right at the ecu.
For example, the TPS...
Sure, you can meter and adjust it at its connector in the engine bay, but after all these years, chances are your readings at that connector vs the ecu are going to be slightly (or significantly if you have an issue with the wiring) different. And since what the ecu sees is king, it's best to meter right at the gang plug.
For example, the TPS...
Sure, you can meter and adjust it at its connector in the engine bay, but after all these years, chances are your readings at that connector vs the ecu are going to be slightly (or significantly if you have an issue with the wiring) different. And since what the ecu sees is king, it's best to meter right at the gang plug.
01-01-17, 03:38 PM
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I have finally decided on a set of wheels. Never thought this would be the hardest part. Now I hope yall think they will fit well. They are 17x8 AVID1 AV50 5x114.3 35 Silver Machined Wheel New set(4). And I plan on using 235/40 tires on them. I dont think they will be close to rubbing in the front? Or would I be better off using 215/40? Any feedback? Thanks!
Last edited by James Allen; 01-01-17 at 03:59 PM.
01-01-17, 05:25 PM
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Or...
That switch is how the ECU gets engine temp readings (the cluster gauge has a separate sending unit) and if faulty, the computer may think the engine is always cold or hot, which could explain the extreme adjustment you had to make.
I'd think it most useful to test at the ECU as it confirms the sender and all the connectors/wiring are good as well.
Rock Auto sells those thermosenders really cheap.
That switch is how the ECU gets engine temp readings (the cluster gauge has a separate sending unit) and if faulty, the computer may think the engine is always cold or hot, which could explain the extreme adjustment you had to make.
I'd think it most useful to test at the ECU as it confirms the sender and all the connectors/wiring are good as well.
Rock Auto sells those thermosenders really cheap.
01-01-17, 10:34 PM
#92
i always find vacuum leaks on customer's cars, i even find leaks on cars i work on after the fact. it is why i recommended double checking your work with the testing method.
these intake systems are one of the worst of all mankind to seal up to how they rolled off the showroom floor. the 5th and 6th port seals crack and leak, the brake booster hose off the engine to the firewall can crack at the extreme bend and leak when you rev the engine, the s4 oil injectors can leak due to poor design, the throttle body has a built in unmetered leak at the secondary butterfly, the throttle body elbow seal is poo and leaks all the time, the solenoids on the rats nest could be semi stuck and allowing unmetered air in the wrong direction due to old worn out check valves, EGR diaphragm cracked and leaking, small hairline cracks in old vacuum lines, etc, etc, etc.
the list is a mile long.
these intake systems are one of the worst of all mankind to seal up to how they rolled off the showroom floor. the 5th and 6th port seals crack and leak, the brake booster hose off the engine to the firewall can crack at the extreme bend and leak when you rev the engine, the s4 oil injectors can leak due to poor design, the throttle body has a built in unmetered leak at the secondary butterfly, the throttle body elbow seal is poo and leaks all the time, the solenoids on the rats nest could be semi stuck and allowing unmetered air in the wrong direction due to old worn out check valves, EGR diaphragm cracked and leaking, small hairline cracks in old vacuum lines, etc, etc, etc.
the list is a mile long.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-01-17 at 10:41 PM.
01-02-17, 09:15 AM
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i always find vacuum leaks on customer's cars, i even find leaks on cars i work on after the fact. it is why i recommended double checking your work with the testing method.
these intake systems are one of the worst of all mankind to seal up to how they rolled off the showroom floor. the 5th and 6th port seals crack and leak, the brake booster hose off the engine to the firewall can crack at the extreme bend and leak when you rev the engine, the s4 oil injectors can leak due to poor design, the throttle body has a built in unmetered leak at the secondary butterfly, the throttle body elbow seal is poo and leaks all the time, the solenoids on the rats nest could be semi stuck and allowing unmetered air in the wrong direction due to old worn out check valves, EGR diaphragm cracked and leaking, small hairline cracks in old vacuum lines, etc, etc, etc.
the list is a mile long.
these intake systems are one of the worst of all mankind to seal up to how they rolled off the showroom floor. the 5th and 6th port seals crack and leak, the brake booster hose off the engine to the firewall can crack at the extreme bend and leak when you rev the engine, the s4 oil injectors can leak due to poor design, the throttle body has a built in unmetered leak at the secondary butterfly, the throttle body elbow seal is poo and leaks all the time, the solenoids on the rats nest could be semi stuck and allowing unmetered air in the wrong direction due to old worn out check valves, EGR diaphragm cracked and leaking, small hairline cracks in old vacuum lines, etc, etc, etc.
the list is a mile long.
ok. I backed the various resistor halfway until it started being a rough idle. I sprayed carb cleaner everywhere, around hoses, valves, etc. Made no.difference. I then started adjusting var. resistor back clockwise and found that I didn't need to.go full clockwise for it to run smoothly. I am about a half turn from all the way to the stop clockwise. I think that is a good sign.? Since I could not find any leaks. It's just the car made no difference if I went full clockwise. I left the setting about 1/2 turn from full clockwise.
Last edited by James Allen; 01-02-17 at 11:19 AM.
01-02-17, 11:28 AM
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About the only fluids I have not changed yet is the manual transmission and rear end fluid. I bought RP 75w 90 for the tran and 75w 140 for rear end. It was a mistake I picked up the 140. I had planned on 75w 90 for both. Is this a good idea or no? I have read yes and no one the forums, so I hate to ask yet again but confused. Thanks for your patience!
01-02-17, 11:40 AM
#95
I'd still meter the Coolant switch...
I suppose it might be possible you've got a stuck seal.. Have you 'steam cleaned' the motor with water via ingestion?
How's the brake pedal feel? Booster could have a torn diaphragm and be in bad shape. This is a long shot...
It's a bit archaic, but you should build a code checker. It only costs a small amount to build, is wicked easy, and it'll let you know if there's a fault with the engine running. The downside is that it will only show you one code at a time, and only with the engine running. So if there are further faults, you won't know until you've fixed the current one.
The reason I'm suggesting pulling the codes is the intake air temp sensor could be bad... Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm fairly certain it can cause your engine to run like poo. There's value and range in the fsm as to what you're looking for.
Let's us know once you've metered the components we've suggested.
I suppose it might be possible you've got a stuck seal.. Have you 'steam cleaned' the motor with water via ingestion?
How's the brake pedal feel? Booster could have a torn diaphragm and be in bad shape. This is a long shot...
It's a bit archaic, but you should build a code checker. It only costs a small amount to build, is wicked easy, and it'll let you know if there's a fault with the engine running. The downside is that it will only show you one code at a time, and only with the engine running. So if there are further faults, you won't know until you've fixed the current one.
The reason I'm suggesting pulling the codes is the intake air temp sensor could be bad... Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm fairly certain it can cause your engine to run like poo. There's value and range in the fsm as to what you're looking for.
Let's us know once you've metered the components we've suggested.
01-02-17, 12:36 PM
#96
About the only fluids I have not changed yet is the manual transmission and rear end fluid. I bought RP 75w 90 for the tran and 75w 140 for rear end. It was a mistake I picked up the 140. I had planned on 75w 90 for both. Is this a good idea or no? I have read yes and no one the forums, so I hate to ask yet again but confused. Thanks for your patience!
01-02-17, 02:02 PM
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I'd still meter the Coolant switch...
I suppose it might be possible you've got a stuck seal.. Have you 'steam cleaned' the motor with water via ingestion?
How's the brake pedal feel? Booster could have a torn diaphragm and be in bad shape. This is a long shot...
yes the booster is shot. I capped off the vac line. Got a new one coming.
It's a bit archaic, but you should build a code checker. It only costs a small amount to build, is wicked easy, and it'll let you know if there's a fault with the engine running. The downside is that it will only show you one code at a time, and only with the engine running. So if there are further faults, you won't know until you've fixed the current one.
The reason I'm suggesting pulling the codes is the intake air temp sensor could be bad... Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm fairly certain it can cause your engine to run like poo. There's value and range in the fsm as to what you're looking for.
Let's us know once you've metered the components we've suggested.
I suppose it might be possible you've got a stuck seal.. Have you 'steam cleaned' the motor with water via ingestion?
How's the brake pedal feel? Booster could have a torn diaphragm and be in bad shape. This is a long shot...
yes the booster is shot. I capped off the vac line. Got a new one coming.
It's a bit archaic, but you should build a code checker. It only costs a small amount to build, is wicked easy, and it'll let you know if there's a fault with the engine running. The downside is that it will only show you one code at a time, and only with the engine running. So if there are further faults, you won't know until you've fixed the current one.
The reason I'm suggesting pulling the codes is the intake air temp sensor could be bad... Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm fairly certain it can cause your engine to run like poo. There's value and range in the fsm as to what you're looking for.
Let's us know once you've metered the components we've suggested.
Last edited by James Allen; 01-02-17 at 02:05 PM.
01-02-17, 07:06 PM
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honestly i feel the "coming out of storage" list is backwards. all i would do is drain and add a few fresh gallons to the fuel system and top off the coolant and attempt to start the car, once it knowingly runs then i would flush the fluids. this is how i would treat a car i am unsure even runs. even running old oil for a short time isn't going to kill anything.
people assume the best when trying to revive a car, but not all stories have happy endings and doing all the maintenance before knowing the lab results could just be a waste of money.
people assume the best when trying to revive a car, but not all stories have happy endings and doing all the maintenance before knowing the lab results could just be a waste of money.
I'm actively looking for an SA right now.
01-03-17, 01:01 AM
#99
if the car is running better over time then it may just be residual varnish in the fuel system, let it cycle for a few tanks and then see how lean the engine can operate before the stumble returns. being a low mile car, you probably have less to worry about than most.
01-03-17, 11:02 AM
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if the car is running better over time then it may just be residual varnish in the fuel system, let it cycle for a few tanks and then see how lean the engine can operate before the stumble returns. being a low mile car, you probably have less to worry about than most.
In the meantime I was looking at post about the Coolant bubble test. Think I am worrying about nothing but when the car is cold and I start it, there are no bubbles, only aftere it warms up a see a bubble every now and then. Nothing constant. From reading I believe it's just trapped air. There is no smoke when I start it or.running it. So I believe I am ok. I was fine until I read about that test on the forum! Lol
Last edited by James Allen; 01-03-17 at 11:05 AM.