TougeMonster

iTrader: (1)

Can i use stock ECU and 3 piece seals on a half bridge (secondaries, NOT aux bridge)?
Would switching the direction of a worn in apex seal (within spec) with corner piece towards the center iron mess stuff up because it was bedded in rotating the opposite direction?

I have seen Judge Ito's vid from a few years ago of a s4 bridgy with stock ecu on youtube, says it just has 550cc secondaries out of a S4 TII


I already have a road race exhaust thats a long primary 2" dual for 113"to 118" to 3 inch collector single exit.Still need to tune that. Anything else? AFM mods? Ive heard of people being able to turn a rheostat inside of it. Im thinking about just getting a NA Rtek 2.0 but i want to see if this would work well enough to drive to body shop and exhaust shop ect. Ill definitely rtek this winter when i put it away

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You should not run 3 piece seals on anything, period. While the 3 piece seal offers better sealing than 2 piece, it does this by allowing all parts of the seal to move independently. The top part ends up moving back and forth, beating the apex seal groove in the rotor until it's out of spec and the seal is worn down, then it rolls out. So many 2nd gen rotors are worn well past spec at this point because of the damn 3 piece seals while older rotors with many more miles are still in great shape because of the two piece seals.

You need to swap the orientation of the rear apex seal so that the corner piece faces the middle iron, absolutely. Otherwise it will get mangled by the bridge. As long as the rotor grooves are in spec, then yep, it's fine.

As for the ECU...well, it will run and basically drive, but not well. The AFM is very forgiving and with upgraded injectors, you'll get enough fuel. Of course that's a pretty crude old-school way of doing it and lacks the fine tuning you'll need to make it run properly. Plus, bridgeports like a LOT of timing, especially down low and at idle. The stock ECU doesn't provide this. You'll get a lot of bucking, popping, and fairly crappy mileage even for a bridgeport.

A bridgeport changes the engine requirements to much that you're also going to be limited by the stock NA intake manifold. A cheap stop gap would be to go with the TII intake, port matched to the NA block. But in reality you're going to want a set of ITBs on a reasonably short set of runners to extract the most power, because the engine will be making this power above 7000 RPM.

And it will be loud. Stupid, stupid loud.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

what's with everyone wanting to know if they can reuse the stock 3 piece seals lately? they are garbage, even mazda got rid of them for street use at much lower power levels with stock ports.. after 100k miles they are out of spec and beating the **** out of the rotor seal channel trying to escape. add that to an engine that is only happy at high revs and you have a recipe for turning a rotor and housing into a wall ornament.

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

bridge stock ecu...........it will run but not good.I did it and it sucks.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

can can can can CAN I reeeeUseeee the StOcK 3 pc seAlz ?

That's one of the reasons I went for 2 pc seals ... well I mean NRS only makes 1 and 2 pc ceramic seals , but hey I could re-use mine if I wanna a crappy build ... I mean err a budget build ... but wait ... I bought all new irons and housings ... hmm ... nm

TougeMonster

iTrader: (1)

Hey it was worth a shot, I only asked cus i didnt know.Thanks for the advice ill save for oem 2 piece seals. I have a set of S4 TII manifolds but i also have a RB weber/delorto upper manifold that bolts to the stock 6 port intake. I have a set of cnc atkins port sleeves id like to try as well. I dont really wanna run carby as i think its easier to tune a computer than change jets on a weber. Must learn moar... brain hurts