SmokinJoe

I posted a message a while back mentioning that I had a fairly violent shake in the steering wheel whenever I made around a left bend in the road at approx 50-60mph.. checked the wheel bearings, they're tight, grabbed hold of the steering mounts and gave those a good shake and they were solid, so I have no idea guys... I'm surprised no one else has had this problem? I was maybe thinking that one of my shocks in the front were done, but I'd usually be able to feel that whenever I went over a bump in the road, so it can't be that.... F'd if I know what this damn thing is.... but its come close to forcing me off the road a few times now

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

I can only think-Go back to basics. Jack up car. Put on stands and raise lower control arms to normal position. Check play, if any, by rocking back and forth at 12 & 6 o'clock position, then at 3 & 9 o'clock position. Do this on both sides to see if any looseness. Check tires for uneven wear, feathered edges, or any telltale signs of an alignment problem.

AreExSeven

Go even more basic than that.

Have you had the car aligned?

SmokinJoe

I thought about allignment, but if the tires weren't alligned properly, wouldn't I get sort of a pull to one side on the highway?

dr0x

It possibly could be shot suspension bushings (they are like 15y/o or w/e). But I would imagine you would feel shaking at all speeds and during most times.

rx7_ragtop

I had this problem, only with turning to the right slightly. It was a bad left ball joint. I would suspect your right ball joint is bad. If you have an 86-88 it's an easy fix, and the part is about $50. If you have an 89 or newer, it requires replacing the whole lower control arm.

On the 86-88, here is how to fix it: Jack the car up and remove the tire. Remove the nut on the end of the ball joint shaft, where it passes through the lower part of the spindle. Using a "pickle fork" (ball joint separator... costs about $15-20, but you can usually "borrow" one from the parts store) to pop the tapered shaft out of the bottom of the spindle by inserting it around the top of the ball joint and giving it a couple of sharp smacks with a hammer. Unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the ball joint and swaybar end-link mounts to the control arm. Installation is the reverse of removal. It took me about 15 minutes to do mine. I suggest doing BOTH sides though.

Note, this COULD be symptoms of a wheel out of balance, bad wheel bearings, or bad tie-rod ends... but this is what it was on MY car.

Brad

SmokinJoe

Yeah, I seem to remember the previous owner talking about it needing balljoints... so I'll look into it. Thanks a lot Brad, much appreciated on the detailed explanation of the re and re.