ok heres the 411 on my problem the 15 amp fuse is the engine control fuse well i replaced it today with a 20 then a 30 amp fuse the 20 went up but the 30 is still strong but the thing is that now my gages only work if i'm i'm in gear and driving or if i have 5th gear or revers ingadged the rest of the time i don't get squat i just want to know if i figure it out if somone in my area that knows what there doing with a second gen could help kettlman was a big help but this is electrical and we aren't that great in that area that and i also will need help replacing me pulsation dampener as well cause thats what is leaking and i'm going to have to tale the whole throttle boday and intake system off (correct me if i'm wrong there plz) so i would be greatful for the help and pay you when i can if you would like but i'm a bit broke and all and paying for parts is going to suck well thx guys but i will be in trouble if eithere of these systems goes out on me and i can't seem to track down the wires that are causeing this problem so plz send you advice /help

 

First... get that 30 amp fuse out of there... the reason it has a 15 amp fuse is that something on that circuit can't handle any more than 15 amps and you are going to blow it.. if it isn't already and causing the fault to begin with..

Second, most likely, something is grounding out or pullin too much current through that circuit. if its an 86-88, you can get the electrical wiring diagrams off the tech manual pdf's on teamfc3s.com. find that fuse, and what is hooked up to it, and look for bare wires, crossed wires, burnt wires or smoked parts...

Did you hook anything up recently before the problem started..... new amps, stereo, foglights??????

Third.. YEP, gotta take the uim off to get the pulsation damper off.. its on the primary rail down on top of the engine block.

while you have that off, you might want to replace all the vaccume lines that are down there.. like the oil injector vaccume spider lines and all that junk... they probably are hard as plastic by now.

 

thx YearsOfDecay and i will and no the prob started befor that and the only reason i put it in today was to check and see if i could atleast get it to run again and i just bolted up the tranny starter and the exhaust but it sat for a year i bought it from a friend fo just 1k so i knew it was going to have probs

 

I'll second that. I wish I had more help to offer, but YoD hit it right on the head.
-John
www.TwistedRotors.com

 

OK...... then YOUR BUDDY was monkey'n around and got something crossed or grounded wrong.

Finding an electrical problem on a unfamiliar car. especially when YOU didn't cause it, can be a real pain in the ****, bud.

I know there are some other dudes in here from Washington, hopefully one of them will come and eyeball it for ya.

Is that fuse in the box under the dash, or out by the strut tower??

 

ya thats what i'm looking for i took this on as a project just slowly modify it cause it only cost me 1k but this is starting to **** me off i've had it for 4 days now and it has just been one little prob after another

 

LOL...... i take it this is your first 7????? ooooohhhh boy!!!

I'm really not trying to be rude here... but you had better get reeeeeaaallly used to figuring out one little problem after another!!!

Your 67 camaro's electrical system is 100 times simpler that the one on that 7!! and the vaccume system, lets not even go there... yet!!!

I'll break out the diagram tonight and see if i can tell ya what's on that fuse to look for...

 

thx man ya i figured that and yes this is my first and i'm getting used to that idea i told my self i would give rotory a try and stop nocking them tell i knew what the hell i was talking about but the engine is awsome it's this electrical and fuel injection systel on this that bugging me i'm not great with electrical cause i just haven't had to work on it with my camaro and i knew i was in for it but sheesh this is just plain f**ked up but whatever i'll just learn as i go thats what i got it for i'm using this as training for UTI i am taking there courses in about a year or so

 

*BUMP*

 

so does anyone else have any ideas or can anyone help me out mb

 

*BUMP*

 

All right, this is on a 86-88 anyway:
1) disconnect the small 2-pin plug at the back of the alternator
2) disconnect the circuit opening relay plug, located below the steering column, can't miss it, it's the only relay in that immediate area
3) put a 15 Amp fuse back in, see if it blows...if it does, your main relay is bad, it's the big one just forward of the clutch master cylinder, driver's side on the firewall
4) if it doesn't blow, reconnect the alt back plug...if it blows now, your voltage regulator inside the alt is bad
5) if it still doesn't blow, you've got it narrowed down to the Air flow meter and the fuel pump (disconnect either for further troubleshooting...good luck

 

thx man the only question i still have is should i have the key turned on or off oh and that circuit opening relay plug is that in the car or outside as well

 

key should be on

 

ok lol i thought as much but was quite sure

 

2) disconnect the circuit opening relay plug, located below the steering column, can't miss it, it's the only relay in that immediate area
ok i hate sounding like such a dumbass but could somone show me a pic of what i'm supposed to me looking for there is it in the car or under the hood and whats it supposed to look like

 

you know what, if the car has been sitting start with the fuel pump first- diconnect the plug behind the carpet at the rear left side strut tower, 9" below the speaker position...pull the plug apart, insert a new 15A fuse, and go for it...Key must be on to power the circuit....if it blows with no key, you really got problems...

 

ok dude but still i would like to know were that realy switch is cause it's kind bugging me that i eather am over looking it or am just being stupid if you got a pic that would be helpfull i tried to pm you but i can't cause you have it blocked

 

and would that also cause my instruments to only work when the car is moving or in 5 and reverse? and i am going to test all this in about 30 min after i get some 15 amp fuses caue i'm out of those but after testing it i put a 20 in there min ago and that didn't pop this time and thats only 5 amps higher so i don't know and i tested the fuelpump thing with that and it didn't pop

 

look under your dash, follow the steering column down, on the right side of the column will be a "box", with maybe 6 wires connecting from the bottom. the middle wire will be black/ with white stripe, couple of blue ones too, if I remember correctly. think it's also got some yellow plastic on it somewhere...

 

and would that also cause my instruments to only work when the car is moving or in 5 and reverse? and i am going to test all this in about 30 min after i get some 15 amp fuses caue i'm out of those but after testing it i put a 20 in there min ago and that didn't pop this time and thats only 5 amps higher so i don't know and i tested the fuelpump thing with that and it didn't pop

 

that fuse shouldn't have anything to do with your instruments...sounds like you got some some wires crossed somewhere...at least you know the 5th gear switch is working in the tranny!

 

ok well will that cause any problems cause as long as i'm moving it's fine and i just bought some 15 amp fuses

 

well i put the 15 amp in there and it was fine started right up the only prob was the gauges still dont work the act like the want to but as soon as it hits 3k rpm the shut down but whenever it's in gear and moving or in 5th or reverse they kick in no prob and it only started doing this today i'm freeking out

 

EVERY gauge on the cluster, huh? might be something easy like a loose connection (black/yellow wire at the back of the cluster), or it might be some weird intermittent short somewhere...make sure the 7.5A "meter" fuse is in the fuse box nice & tight...