Starts, but won't hold idle??!!???
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Starts, but won't hold idle??!!???
Okay I need some help. I have a 87 TII with about 220KMS on it and since I've owned it (6 Weeks) the idle has never been right. Normally at startup you're tach should jump up to 2000 or so for a split second, but mine has only done that once. It has never been right, but I thought because it wasn't driven very often it needed a good run! But last night I went to start it and it would fire then bog then die, started it the second time and same thing. Finally I got it going and I drove it around the block; it pulls fine and theres no hesitation through the tach, but I get to a stop then bog...sputter...bla..bla........ough. Tried starting it this morning and same shi-aht!
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I vote with JOHNL...... just pull it off the car and examine where the clamp attaches the duct to the turbo inlet. If its cracked its cracked, if not look elsewhere for a vacuum leak. If thats not the problem then by hook or crook you've got to get the engine at idle speed so you can spray starter fluid or carb cleaner at each and every hose joint on the engine to see if the problem is a vac leak. If its not a vac leak for sure, then go to square one and do the timing, setting of the idle, setting the tps, new Lead plugs etc, per the fsm at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com look in the fuel section 4B. A rotten idle on a 87/88 turbo can be smoothed out using the variable resistor. Usually richer will smooth things out a bit and help maintain a idle better. The bac needs a hard look if the above does not pan out. Its designed to maintain the idle, so don't chunk it in the belief that is removal will make things well. Like the man said *it could be a lot of reasons* such as the ones above. Don't forget the url in my first post. Could also be someone in the past has removed some parts such as the thermowax and water thermo valve and attaching hardware.
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I've checked the inlet duct and it appears to be fine. BTW the turbo has no play and the spool turns with ease. I check out my BAC with the ohm meter and I'm getting 11.7ohms. Then I check it on the battery and it's clicking. I've checked most of the vacuums and they appear to have been replaced at on time. But there are still a few that are in dire need of replacement. I don't understand it was running perfect the night before, then blah! Did I forget to mention that I love my RX-7! LOL
Could it be fuel related? Fuel Filter? The fact that I have a bad tank? I've bought new plugs and ignition wires thats my next attempt.
BTW If I were to check the plug that connects the BAC; what should the volts or ohms be?
Could it be fuel related? Fuel Filter? The fact that I have a bad tank? I've bought new plugs and ignition wires thats my next attempt.
BTW If I were to check the plug that connects the BAC; what should the volts or ohms be?
Last edited by Scracho; 06-09-02 at 07:34 PM.
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change your plugs! My car would start up normally, run for 5 seconds, then die, over and over and over, I swapped out plugs and it worked fine (odd thing is my other plugs were new!) It just would NOT start at all. With the other plugs it starts and idles OK.
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Did that as well as the fuel filter, air filter, trailling coil, cleaned and tested BAC. I've also checked my Turbo inlet and everything appears to be fine. Then I checked my compression thinking she was dead, but I'm getting even bounces over 95PSI on both rotors.
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I have the same problem only my car is a 1986 GXL. I start the car, it flies to about 2.5 RPM's and then goes completely downhill from there. I pulled my spark plug cables while it was at idle for a couple of seconds. 3 of the wires stalled the car completely after pulling. While one of the lead wires when pulled, did nothing. I am going out to buy a new wire and plugs.
I really have a feeling that it is the plug itself because the wire arcs when pulled off. Also, I dont get zapped until after I pull the wire. Usually when wires go bad, you can get zapped just by touching the end of the wire before its pulled off. (That has happened to me before). The wires are pretty new anyway and have zero corrosion.
Im crossing my fingers because I am not replacing one of the lead coils if that happens to be the problem. I have put so much time and money into this car just for something else to go wrong. I hope its just a simple spark plug problem. I will let you know what happens. Keep hope because another RX-7 could find its way to the junkyard if its too expensive.
Replaced:
R & P Steering
Starter
Altenator
A/C Heat Logicon
Headlight Switch
Radiator
Antennae Motor
Pulsation Damper
Clutch Master Cyllinder
Thats all I can remember so far. One thing just seems to lead right into another!
I really have a feeling that it is the plug itself because the wire arcs when pulled off. Also, I dont get zapped until after I pull the wire. Usually when wires go bad, you can get zapped just by touching the end of the wire before its pulled off. (That has happened to me before). The wires are pretty new anyway and have zero corrosion.
Im crossing my fingers because I am not replacing one of the lead coils if that happens to be the problem. I have put so much time and money into this car just for something else to go wrong. I hope its just a simple spark plug problem. I will let you know what happens. Keep hope because another RX-7 could find its way to the junkyard if its too expensive.
Replaced:
R & P Steering
Starter
Altenator
A/C Heat Logicon
Headlight Switch
Radiator
Antennae Motor
Pulsation Damper
Clutch Master Cyllinder
Thats all I can remember so far. One thing just seems to lead right into another!
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