Starter satefty cutout switch
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Starter satefty cutout switch
I'm having problems with a safety switch for the starter circuit that is located inside the car at the clutch pedal. The switch is closed when the clutch pedal is fully depressed, and permits the car to start as the key is turned. On my car, this just barely reaches the point of contact when the clutch pedal is depressed. Sometimes the switch will not make contact unless the clutch pedal is rammed to the floorboard.I have a 90 GXL that I've owned since new, and have never had any problems with this switch until recently. I replaced the switch expecting that the switch was bad, but there was no change with the new switch. The plunger on the switch appears to be depressed to about only one-half of its full travel distance when the clutch pedal is depressed. The switch position is not adjustable, although there is some clearance in the bolt holes which allows moving the switch about 1/32" or so. There's a tab on the clutch pedal that depresses the switch's plunger as the pedal is depressed. I'm wondering if there's some sort of rubber piece attached to this tab, which allows the switch plunger to go further in when the pedal is depressed? Has anyone had any similar problems with this starter cutoff switch? I'm thinking of just bypassing this switch, but I'm baffled as to why this isn't working like it should. It is a good safety feature, and I really don't want to defeat is functionality unless I,m left with no alternatives.
Thanks,
Hot_Dog
90 RX7 GXL
02 Acura RSX-S
Thanks,
Hot_Dog
90 RX7 GXL
02 Acura RSX-S
#2
Lives on the Forum
Here's what I did to reduce the peddle throw to activate the switch...Kind of ghetto, but it's been working for like 3-4 years now...
Get something that's fairly thick that you can cut into little squares (maybe 1/2" on a side). Tongue depressors, whatever. I used pieces of plastic about 1/8" thick.
Get some JB weld or other similar quick drying epoxy (RTV may work, but I used 5 minute epoxy for strength)...
Take a couple of your squares and epoxy them together, then after cured epoxy them to the bumpstop on the clutch peddle assy that contacts the switch plunger...
Basically what this does is fools the switch into contacting with a much shorter peddle throw...
You can adjust the number of shims as necessary to get the feel and contact points you want, but don't put too many on or the shims will contact the actual switch body during normal clutch activation...
Get something that's fairly thick that you can cut into little squares (maybe 1/2" on a side). Tongue depressors, whatever. I used pieces of plastic about 1/8" thick.
Get some JB weld or other similar quick drying epoxy (RTV may work, but I used 5 minute epoxy for strength)...
Take a couple of your squares and epoxy them together, then after cured epoxy them to the bumpstop on the clutch peddle assy that contacts the switch plunger...
Basically what this does is fools the switch into contacting with a much shorter peddle throw...
You can adjust the number of shims as necessary to get the feel and contact points you want, but don't put too many on or the shims will contact the actual switch body during normal clutch activation...
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ilike2eatricers
Isnt the safety switch on a threaded stud? Couldnt it be backed out to shorten the distance between the pedal and switch?
Hot_Dog
90 RX7 GXL