jimmydanny

My starter just started acting up. It spins now and then, I can hear the relay or solenoid kicking in though.

Can this be a bad ground, or is this a definite "change your starter"?

EDIT: And, does the S4 and S5 starters swap? I don't know what gear box I have.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

It's probably just the brushes, an easy and cheap fix.
S4 and S5 starters interchange as long as they're both NA or turbo.

jimmydanny

I got a pic of my gearbox mount, dunno if it helps, but it should at least tell if it is S5 or S4. If it is S4, I got an NA box, if I got S5, I got turbo, as my engine is S5 as well.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Wait, what? You may have a NA transmission mated to a turbo engine? Why?

Look at your transmission: Does it look like it weighs under 100lbs? Does it look like it would be barely strong enough to handle the power of a corolla? If yes then it's a NA transmission.

If it looks like this:

Then it's a turbo transmission.

jimmydanny

I'll post a picture in one hour!

jimmydanny

These were taken to see the mount, but it looks kinda like a S4 T2 doesnt it?

gerald m

If you do brushes make sure they give you brushes for the standard trans application as the auto trans brushes are a little wider ( they can be shaved if necessary )and will not fit in the standard brush housing .. Also it seems to me that the auto starter won't fit the standard trans as the housing on the starter is different . Just so you know in case you go after a used starter. Gerald m.

jimmydanny

Will see what I get done tomorrow. Hoping that is all that is wrong so I get to my sister before Christmas lol

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Yes, that's a s4 turbo transmission. No cooling fins on the bottom pan.

Robert Stanton

iTrader: (2)

I would guess brushes...also could be a weak battery...

jimmydanny

I got 11.50 volts on the blower motor when having it on max with ign on, no engine running.

So my battery is rather okay. If you add the fact that it is 14F here!

But you are sure this is an S4 TII box, not S4 N/A?

Just have to be sure, as they said they swapped the gearbox to TII, but not the rear end, meaning I got a NA rear end, but TII gearbox.

Just for finding out what LSD to get later on.

96fd3s

I agree, change out the starter brushes. they cost less than $15

jimmydanny

Will do, just need to get out the starter. Fell on the ice outside, so I can barely walk, so lying under the car taking out the starter can be quite a challenge :P And getting up even harder.

But I don't know how it looks inside the starter, since the solenoid pushed the starter motor into the flywheel, the brushes aren't where they would usually be in a regular motor, are they?

96fd3s

Iv got an FD not an FC so not 100% sure, but im confident the brushes will be in the same place.

I made a thread in the 3rd gen section that shows (with horrible pics) how to change them out.

its here if its of any help to you

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...heavy-1014880/

jimmydanny

It looks kinda the same from what I can remember when rebuilding my engine last year, but well, it is one year ago and more, so I might be wrong.

But I can say with 60% certainty that that actually is helpful! Now, hopefully, Mazda got brushes in stock or can get them to me fast as ****!

And no; Mazda does not have their own warehouse in Norway, so I have to get the parts from Belgium or France -_-

jimmydanny

Can a starter with bad brushes (ie bad contact) and bad lube (ie not lubed for 20 years) cause my car to drain so much battery when starting?

Unless I drive for a very long time, I can hear it being harder and harder to start, but there is no drain on the battery (0,001A or so, ridiculously low), and the car is not exceptionally hard to start.

Battery is also new, something like 680A start, 72Ah.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Ain't no "lubing" the starter.
Bad brushes, coupled with a worn armature, cause intermittent/no start but I'm not sure what that does to the battery.

jimmydanny

With lube I mean the bearings. There are some kind of bearings there, gliding, ball, whatever, and I don't think it minds grease?

gerald m

Clokker is right no lube necessary maybe a tiny dab on the bushings but they are self lubricating ( Oil impregnated ) If you are getting 12+ volts AT the starter and have ( GOOD GROUNDS clean and tight ) you might want to check the solenoid and make sure it's not corroded inside ..

Have you removed the starter and checked inside for worn brushes etc. ?? If not I would suggest you do , if the brushes are worn out or maybe a broken brush spring or two the intermittent operation will make the armature arc across to the brushes and cause a burnt armature . I would suggest if you are changing the brushes to change the solenoid at the same time .

So check these things for failure .. There is no miracle cure for starters, it should be checked . \first make SURE all electrical connections and grounds are clean and tight for the starting system. Be careful and make sure your car is supported proper before preforming underneath work. . Good Luck . Have a good one Gerald m.

jimmydanny

I have to get the car moved, it is standing in a slope, so I don't want to jack it up and go under it, as it is ice :/

So I will try tomorrow after physics exam, should be able to calculate the risk with going under the car then! :P

gerald m

Make sure the car is stable before going under lots of guys get squashed . When you get the starter out and open take a few pics of the brushes and springs and post them if you can . Gerald m. You probably know but before dismantle the starter scribe a few aligning marks on the starter housings or use a felt pen , but sometimes when it comes to reassembly the marker lines are gone so you are best to scribe .

bumpstart

s5 t2

doesnt matter anyhows.. you can use the n318 starter ( s4 and s5 turbo, manual )
or you can use the n327 starter ( s4 NA auto ) [ fits and is hi TQ version ]

solenoids swap readily on the outside of the case,, suggest you try that first

if the motor spins lazily or poles out to very low volts as it does so = needs new brushes

overalll skill level required to pull down the starter = very low .. you will need an impact screwdriver to release the solenoid screws

jimmydanny

I did rebuild me engine, should be able to take out the starter lol.

But my main fear is that I can't get the correct brushes (and therefore have to cut some way too large ones down and solder and ****), time is limited with three exams this week, and I need to travel on saturday morning to get to my sisters in time!

This is just disaster weekend!

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Dunno what it's like in Norway but I got mine from Advance Auto and they fit perfectly.
(My grandparents were from Tromso, BTW.)

jimmydanny

Got the top of the starter out (how the hell do you take out the starter, let alone the gearbox? The gearbox is in way of taking out the bolts to the gearbox!)

The brushes were half the length of the new ones, so I take it they might have been the cause.

The old ones are exactly 10mm, that is 0,39 inches.