this is what i believe to be my interlock switch. the problem is when i push the pedal in it doesnt even touch the plunger... What am i missing from this assy?

 

i also need to know how i should adjust this fix to my car. My starter cut relay is blown... i linked the ground to the correct post and no click.

 

77777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777 77777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777 77777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777

Your question confuses me but maybe not others.

The Starter Cut Relay itself never pulls in unless there is a Theft in progress. The rest of the time the relay is relaxed and allows power from the key (START position only) to pass from the large BLACK/GREEN wire in that plug, to the large BLACK/WHITE in that plug.

All you have to do is make a jumper wire and jumper from the large BLACK/WHITE wire to the BLACK/GREEN wire in that elect plug, in order to bypass the Starter Cut Relay.

The only Ground ever put on that RELAY is from the light green/yellow wire that comes from the THEFT UNIT when there is a theft happening.

EDIT: In the above I did not explain how the addition of a new relay would correct a possible click, click, click varoom problem with the starter. I was just trying to explain how I don't know what your asking.

A new relay you would make a wire and attach it to a good ground point with a bolt/screw on one end and have the other end of that wire go to the new relays Coil ground. Then for the positive side of that new relays coil, you would run a wire from the large black/green wire in the shown elect plug to the new relays coil. So now everytime you go to Start with the key, the new relays coil will get power and pull in.

It won't do anygood for it to just pull in until you run a wire from the large BLACK/WHITE wire in that shown elect plug to one of the new relays contacts. The large BLACK/WHITE sends pwer to the starter solenoid. All that is left is for you to add an additional wire from the engine bay fuse box to the other contact on the new relay to make the starter spin over. I think that must be explained in this thread somewhere above.

Just confused about the ground your talking about.

 

Read this and it might help: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...8133832AAsJH3y

IN other words the new ground wire you make will go to either 85 or 86 (the relays coil). The wire you run from the elect plug shown in your picture will come from the LARGE BLACK/GREEN wire in that elect plug and go to the new relays 85 or 86, matters not which.

Do that and now your new relay will pull in each time you hold the key to START.

So all that is left is to run a new wire from the engine bay fuse box to either point 30 or 87 of the new relay and then run a wire from the LARGE BLACK/WHITE wire in the elect plug you show to either point 30 or 87 of the new relay.

And or read this if the above is too disjointed for you to understand: http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pa...lay_basics.htm or maybe this: http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

IN both posts I made above I was talking only series four cars. On series five cars substiture B/L for B/W in the above posts. That would be black/blue instead of black/white.

 

Does your car have the factory alarm, and if so, are you still wanting to incorporate it into your starting circuit?

 

the ground i was trying to talk about was on the relay itself someone told me i could check it by touching a wire to the B/L post and the grey post and it would click if it worked. the factory alarm did come with this car but ive already removed it. im hoping thats not the cause of this problem. I need to find the GREEN/YELLOW wire thats supposed to go to the theft unit and see what its doing. I dont care for the starter cut off relay if its causing the problem ill just bypass it. Im thinking about doing what they were talking about earlier and putting a relay in the empty spot and running power from that.

 

I thought the S5 alarm system was embedded into the CPU. How did you go about removing it?

 

Turned this into its own thread, since it's a separate issue from the other thread's topic.

 

************************************************** ***********************8

Whoever told you that is confused. On a series five the gnd is the light green/yellow wire. If the elect plug is connected to the starter cut relay and you put a gnd on the light green/yellow the relay should pull in.

Just forget doing that. To bypass the relay just pull the elect plug off it. Then jumper the Black/Green wire in the plug to the B/L wire in that elect plug. That's all there is to do. That is a copy cat of series four cars that came without Theft units. They did not use the Starter Cut Relay and just made a jumper plug for the elect plug that would have gone to the Starter Cut Relay. A jpg of a series four car without Theft is shown with its blue jumper plug.

Yeah, on a series five the theft control is inside the CPU inlike the series four which has a Theft Unit all independent of the CPU.

 

^ Easy as pie to do. Just remember to select the B/G wire that doesn't have voltage on it with the key to "on."

 

ya i fixed it thank you.

 

I came across this posting, but my wiring color is a bit off, it would make sense I jump the thicker cable, but just to confirm, I have a blk/grn and blk/BLU. Same thing, right?

 

Yes, IIRC jumpering the the two thicker wires will bypass the relay.

 

Thank you!