Starter Clicks a Few Times Before It Works
Starter Clicks a Few Times Before It Works
the starter clicks a couple times before it actually turns over. its not the ground because it has been replaced along with a second one added. and the positive cable has been replaced, so its not that. then on top of that the starter has been tested on another car and it didnt do this, but i replaced it with a new one for good measure, and guess what, that didnt fix it either. im fresh out of ideas on what this could be, so any help would be great! thanks
-masin
-masin
Mine does the same thing!
Had the starter reconditioned, new brushes, etc in it and was fine, for about 2 or three months, then started doing it again.
My friend who is an autoelectrition reckons that there's something wrong with the starter, so it's going back to the workshop for them to check it out again.
Had the starter reconditioned, new brushes, etc in it and was fine, for about 2 or three months, then started doing it again.
My friend who is an autoelectrition reckons that there's something wrong with the starter, so it's going back to the workshop for them to check it out again.
i was thinking the ignition switch, but it has done this eversince i bought the car about a year ago. its never taken longer or craped out on me, but it is really annoying, especially on the dyno. is there a way to test the switch without just replacing it? and its the starter that clicks, but it's not the starter thats the problem. and yes bat terminals are new.
i know with my luck in the end this is going to be something really, really dumb!
i know with my luck in the end this is going to be something really, really dumb!
Trending Topics
I really doubt it's the ignition switch if it's clicking at the starter. Usually the ignition switch will cause everything to go out when you turn the key to Start.
If you can safely check for voltage at the starter when you try to start it and it clicks then I would do that. I still think it's your wiring that's causing a problem.
If you can safely check for voltage at the starter when you try to start it and it clicks then I would do that. I still think it's your wiring that's causing a problem.
if what goes into the starter is erratic it will confuse the starter... i have no clue but reading seems to me ignition switch corrosion was the best idea offered. the starter basically gets a couple misfires down the line before the signal stabilizes. hence whatever feeds directly into the starter.
the starter clicks a couple times before it actually turns over. its not the ground because it has been replaced along with a second one added. and the positive cable has been replaced, so its not that. then on top of that the starter has been tested on another car and it didnt do this, but i replaced it with a new one for good measure, and guess what, that didnt fix it either. im fresh out of ideas on what this could be, so any help would be great! thanks
-masin
-masin
its the starter for sure. those remanufactuered starters are garbage. i have gone thru serveral and some are better than others. some are really bad and some won't work at all. with my experience your gonna be lucky to find a good one. and as far as i know you can't get the origional thing anymore.
its the starter for sure. those remanufactuered starters are garbage. i have gone thru serveral and some are better than others. some are really bad and some won't work at all. with my experience your gonna be lucky to find a good one. and as far as i know you can't get the origional thing anymore.
I'm going with bad contacts as well.
Most likely it's a current problem to the solenoid. Do you have an aftermarket alarm? Sometimes the aftermarket starter cut relay will be worn. Also clean out the ignition lock contacts.
no zinging, so i guess it could be the switch. the car had an aftermarket alarm, but i ripped it out when i got the car. so can the ignition switch be taken apart and cleaned? or do i just need to replace it?
Good luck with that!!
Yes, you can take it apart and clean it; BUT its not an easy task, not even for a professional electro mechanic.
You can "bypass" the ignition key just for testing purposes; remove the ignition key cover, and you will see the key cilinder with its harness. From the top of my head (don't quote me) you will trace the black wire with a white stripe (its a 12-10G cable), that cable ends on a two cable conector (starting from the cilinder harness towards the firewall). You will unplug that conector, and will jump the side that goes towards the firewall, your jumper cable should be at least a 12G cable. ALSO, I would remove the EGI fuse on the engine bay, just to play it safe; I know there is no need for it (as long as the key is not in the ON position), but on something like this I like to be EXTRA careful.





