rotaryat16

So every so often, (more so often now.) my car will give me issues with starting it. It happened once pretty bad earlier and i changed my plugs and that seemed to work, or just help the issue a little.
It turns over to start but its like the fuel pump isnt working properly or like my spark isnt strong enough..
i have a fuel cut switch that helps with that issue. (engine seems to flood sometimes, not so often for cold starts, but more warm.Bought it with the issue and installed the switch.)

So when it gives me issues when i go and start it for the first time that day i switch the pump on and off trying to catch it by ear. It will catch eventually, (sometimes 10-20 mins. worst its been.) after a while and when it finally starts it will smoke alot, due to flooding, but last start it didnt seem to go away..? I might not of waited long enough for it to clear also.?

Does anyone know what this might be? Fuel pump? Coils/ignitors?
Just seeing if anyone has had this issue.

Thanks!

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Generally, issues like that are caused by low compression.

rotaryat16

ya?
But then other times/ when it warms up it drives normal.
Another issue is it will run fast boostin strong, then it wont...?
I thought my boost controller was out till it started boostin again.
Maybe my fuel cut defencer?

Sorry for all the ?'s.

Jimmy2222

iTrader: (3)

The FCD will feel like a wall. You'll be pulling along with g's pushing you back in your seat a bit, and while your foot is in the same spot, your car will stop accelerating. So that's probably not what you're experiencing.

rotaryat16

It does that at times actually...
im just gonna unplug it and try it out. C if that issue goes away.
But still not my main concern.

calpatriot

Pull ch4 of the online FSM; use the procedures there to check the BAC valve and the water thermo sensor. Excessive flooding on start can be an open circuit to the WTS; the ECU sees that as a very cold temp, and runs the mixture up very rich during the start.

pull the connector of the water thermo sensor (backside of the thermostat housing); check the resistance; compare that against the appropriate values at the current coolant temp per the FSM numbers. If that's ok, get down to the ECU and check the voltage at the input pin to the ECU for the thermo sensor; compare against the voltage pubished in ch 4.

Do the same for the TPS, AFM, and intake air temperature sensor.

If none of that pans out, do a compression check. If that is ok, consider pulling your fuel injectors and having them professionally cleaned. Dirty injectors leak when they are supposed to be off, and lead to flooded starts.