spark problem
04-20-09, 05:58 PM
#1
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spark problem
IM NOT GETTING SPARK! trying to figure out why.
when i do the test procedure it sparks. but when i hook it back up and try to crank it its not. i know it worked when i pulled it apart. so i messed up something.
if anybody has any suggestions for me to try letme know. i will try just about anything at this point. its probably a simple fix that im just over looking.
when i do the test procedure it sparks. but when i hook it back up and try to crank it its not. i know it worked when i pulled it apart. so i messed up something.
if anybody has any suggestions for me to try letme know. i will try just about anything at this point. its probably a simple fix that im just over looking.
04-20-09, 06:21 PM
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Pull the two lower sparkplug out to save wear and tear on the engine and also to get it to spin faster.
Turn the key to ON only and watch the tach needle. It should just barely bump up just as the key is put to ON. Verifys the ECU and power to the ECU is good.
Pull one Lead sparkplug wire off and lay it near one of the strut studs. Spin the engine. Spark should occur b/t the sparkplug wire and the strut tower stud it's close to. Should be easier to see with the engine now spinning faster.
None of the above happen? Then pull the cover off the lead coil assy and turn the key to ON. See if the two small wires on the coil have batt power or not. Talking the two small wires held on the coils/ignitor with two small nuts. Should have power. The cover is the plastic cover on the lead coil assy with L1 and L2 embossed on it. Pulls right off easily.
Power to the ECU and the coils goes as follows.......from the EGI fuses......to the Main Relay.....to the coils and to the ECU. Main Relay never fails. Fuses do fail. Engine fuse in the interior powers the Main Relay. Has to be good.
Having a meter to work with would help.
Just FYI....the coil assy's have to be bolted to the chassis for their ignitor to work. Even just one stud/bolt holding it down should do the job. If you have not unbolted them then ignore this FYI.
Jumpering the yellow two socket fuel pump check connector and having the key to ON, should make the fuel pump work. If it does, then the ENGINE fuse is good and there's no need to check it out.
Turn the key to ON only and watch the tach needle. It should just barely bump up just as the key is put to ON. Verifys the ECU and power to the ECU is good.
Pull one Lead sparkplug wire off and lay it near one of the strut studs. Spin the engine. Spark should occur b/t the sparkplug wire and the strut tower stud it's close to. Should be easier to see with the engine now spinning faster.
None of the above happen? Then pull the cover off the lead coil assy and turn the key to ON. See if the two small wires on the coil have batt power or not. Talking the two small wires held on the coils/ignitor with two small nuts. Should have power. The cover is the plastic cover on the lead coil assy with L1 and L2 embossed on it. Pulls right off easily.
Power to the ECU and the coils goes as follows.......from the EGI fuses......to the Main Relay.....to the coils and to the ECU. Main Relay never fails. Fuses do fail. Engine fuse in the interior powers the Main Relay. Has to be good.
Having a meter to work with would help.
Just FYI....the coil assy's have to be bolted to the chassis for their ignitor to work. Even just one stud/bolt holding it down should do the job. If you have not unbolted them then ignore this FYI.
Jumpering the yellow two socket fuel pump check connector and having the key to ON, should make the fuel pump work. If it does, then the ENGINE fuse is good and there's no need to check it out.
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