all_about_imports

ok so the pulsation damper was spilling fuel and i swaped it out with a banjo bolt (the car ran good before i just didnt want gas all over) towed it over to a friends house to put it all back together thats done but now i get no spark from any of the coils what could be wrong i really need help

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like you forgot a ground connector when you put the intake manifold back on... I forget exactly where it is, but it runs from the firewall to the bolt hole on the top of the engine (if you pulled out the emissions rats nest, you would have had to remove this bolt/grounding strap.
That's your main ECU ground if I recall, so the ECU probably isn't turning on is my guess.

Go48

iTrader: (7)

Check for blown fuses, particularly the EGI fuse. Otherwise, go back over what you did to the engine during your work on the fuel system. May not have reconnected a connection, although other than the negative battery cable, I can't think of any relevant electrical connection that would have been disturbed during the fuel system work.

How do you know your coils are not working? Have you checked for spark at the plugs?

all_about_imports

unfortunatly all my fuses are good i checked that before i ever bothered coming to the forum and yes i tested it at the plugs with using a grounded spark plug, a test light and multimeter and i am not getting any spark from anyone of the coils the car wouldnt have like a bump sensor or roll over switch or anything like that that could have gotten tripped while pulling the car would it
does anyone know an easy way to test to see if the coils are good

all_about_imports

how else would i know if the ecu was not working

katkaroto

well check the spark plugs then, see if they are wet. and if all else fails. do a push start... that's kinda how i got my to crank over for a bit and die again.... but i'm working on it still.

Go48

iTrader: (7)

Get a copy of the factory service manual which has the procedure for testing the coils. There are links to the manual in the 2nd gen FAQ.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

+1 on the first reply. Keep it simple. It's very unlikely your coils messed up. More likely a ground connection.

It's hard to see, but get a good light and try to peek past the upper manifold area to the top of the engine. You may find a loose connection that way.

As a last resort, get a 14ga. wire, hook up to batt. (-) and push against the bare block (or attach to it) and see if she gets spark.

edit: for FSM link, see my sig.

all_about_imports

the block is grounded but thank you for the links and as for checking the spark plugs did you not read the post i already said i checked with spark plug a test light and a multimeter

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

No, I was talking about a flash light to light up the area at the top of the housings.

As for spark, I wasn't talking about the spark plugs, I was talking about seeing if the extra ground to the engine would 'wake up' the coils.

As for the links, you're welcome.

all_about_imports

no man that part was to kat sorry i should have quoted people on that one

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

And he did point out a great way to check and see if the ECU was powering up, you just didn't realize it

The ECU is what commands the fuel injectors to fire. If you have fuel injectors firing and no spark, it's probably not the ECU ground. An easy way to check is to pull the plugs and see if they're wet with gas (ignore a little bit of oil that may be on them!). If both front and rear rotor are wet, you're probably getting your injectors to fire, which means that your ECU is getting power.

Another easy way to test if your injectors are firing is the "stethoscope" test, where you use a mechanics stethoscope or a screwdriver, metal rod, or something else that will conduct sound, and touch one end to your primary fuel injectors and one end to your ear and have a lovely assistant crank the car for you... You should hear them "click." It's kinda hard to do this, though, as you need to be on the primary injectors (the lower ones).

There are no rollover switches or anything like that on these cars that you have to worry about. Go48 is right, though... Something got messed up between the top of the block and the intake manifold. This is the area that was worked on, so your problem will be in there somewhere.

katkaroto - Not to threadjack, but if your car is "cranking for a bit and then dying" and you mean that it will turn over, run for about 3-5 seconds or so, that means you have a massively-huge air intake tract, or (more likely in my humble opinion), a faulty AFM/AFM connection. You can try jumpering the yellow two-prong connector (it's inside of a rubber jacket) located on the passenger side shock tower (around or under the boost/pressure sensor), and listen for the fuel pump to turn on (when the key is in "run"). If that's the case, try starting the car. If the car will run, then start checking the AFM and its' cables. It's not recommended to drive the car with the fuel pump jumpered, if you get in an accident or something, the fuel will still be pumping until you turn the key to "off"... Not very safe

Hope this helps!

all_about_imports

update i am now getting the three beep signal

Go48

iTrader: (7)

Quote from the FAQ: "3-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of stepping motor signal:
The buzzer sounds when there are broken wires or short circuits in coils or harnesses."

all_about_imports

ok that doesnt help are you saying i should change all the coils ???? ok if one coil went out would it have taken them all out
or would all them stop working

Go48

iTrader: (7)

"The buzzer sounds when there are broken wires or short circuits in coils or harnesses."

Well, I'm sorry I couldn't pinpoint your problem for you from afar. I'm just providing you with the reason for your 3 beeps. Look for shorted wires in the wiring harness and/or swap out coils.

all_about_imports

well i do apersiate it i really do but i mean really what help is saying your coils arent working when the problem is my spark lol i kinda assumed it was coil related and at $700 for both coils i kinda was hoping that just anything else could have caused no spark

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

Make sure when you were putting everything back together that you didn't get a wire caught and pinched where it could be grounded. I have done that before when replacing a thermostat a long time ago.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

+1

A pinched wire could cause a freaking nightmare. Just get some used coils and see if it works, but don't pay too much for em because if a short in the harness killed your old coils, then it will kill the "newer" ones as well given time. If you are getting three beeps, then it IS a short, either in the coils themselves (hopefully, cuz then "new" coils would solve the problem.) or in the harness. Start carefully cutting back the wiring harness and inspect all the wires. Be sure not to cut any wires, and to re-wrap the harness when you find your short. Good luck!

all_about_imports

well i figured it out after new coils new ecu new plugs wires and damn near rewiring the whole damn car lol so $1200 and about 30 hours it was my maf sensor thats it i picked on up for about $20 and she fired right up i hate myself for buying all that **** but now i have spare parts

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

well hell man, money well spent in my opinion..... I wish i had a new harness!

Ted Webster

uhhhhm-----

I recently took my 88n/a out of a three year storage---

get the fsm and check out the afm. Mine was dead and I got no spark---lots of fuel---but no spark