solid engine mounts
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From: NC
solid engine mounts
Every now and then I hear about people using solid engine mounts, but honestly someone needs to explain to me all the benefits that this conversion could bring. Is it mainly for high power drag racing cars? Only thing I can think it can provide is terrible shaking and excessive strain on the frame. In addition some of the people on mitsubishi forum are talking about puting some crap on their engine mounts to stiffen them (some sort of hardener). They presum it will reduce wheel hop and improve launches or something. Anyway check it out, tell me if it's true
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=120995
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=120995
when you step on the gas your engine wants to move.
energy spent by the engine making itself move around in the engine bay is wasted.
the mounts keep it from moving and direct that energy through the drivetrain.
so if you stiffen your engine mounts, you get a little more power to the drivetrain.
however, engine mounts also serve to dampen the vibration from the engine.
if you harden your engine mounts using polyurethane or something, your car is going to be much more uncomfortable.
if you install 100% solid engine mounts, i would guess damn near 100% of the engine vibration will be transmit to the chassis. its like of like having a 3000 lb vibrator.
your options for most cars are stock, hard rubber, polyurethaned stock , polyurethane aftermarket, solid engine mounts.
energy spent by the engine making itself move around in the engine bay is wasted.
the mounts keep it from moving and direct that energy through the drivetrain.
so if you stiffen your engine mounts, you get a little more power to the drivetrain.
however, engine mounts also serve to dampen the vibration from the engine.
if you harden your engine mounts using polyurethane or something, your car is going to be much more uncomfortable.
if you install 100% solid engine mounts, i would guess damn near 100% of the engine vibration will be transmit to the chassis. its like of like having a 3000 lb vibrator.
your options for most cars are stock, hard rubber, polyurethaned stock , polyurethane aftermarket, solid engine mounts.
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From: northern indiana
When you launch your car, the engine toques over due to the spongy mounts. This allows for some mis-alignment at the tailshaft to differential---a power loss. By putting in solid mounts, this keeps the engine/tranny alignment where it belongs. You wont feel really any more vibration than you do now, what you will feel is the car will hook up better when you apply the power. As far as strain on the chasis goes, The frame work sees far more strain when you throw it into a corner, than the engine torque will ever show, unless of course your driving a 400 hp turbo motor--but thats another story entirely
unless rotary engines are dramatically different from every other car i've ever been in, your daily driving experience will be much more uncomfortable with stiffer mounts
i have nismo hard rubber mounts in my car, which is on the softer end of the aftermarket mount spectrum.
side effects are a constant ***/back massage, and my rear view mirror vibrates like a guitar string. it makes me want to vomit when i check rear.
i have nismo hard rubber mounts in my car, which is on the softer end of the aftermarket mount spectrum.
side effects are a constant ***/back massage, and my rear view mirror vibrates like a guitar string. it makes me want to vomit when i check rear.
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Originally Posted by fc3sguy
so on the FWD cars would harder or solid engine mounts reduce f. wheel hop on launches?
pick up some mounts from Banzai Racing.. you wont be sorry.. Im running them on my car and they kick ***!!! www.banzairacing.net
i heard it was better to change just the motor mount on the right side since thats the one that vibrates more so it wont be so bad... but thats just what i heard, i dunno
just wanted to add my two cents here,
this is the first law in thermodynamics, otherwise known as conservation of energy
the sum of the total change in energy equals zero
now for those of you who just can't read english heres the equation
Σ ∆E=0
so my take on the whole engine mounts transfering torque and whatnot, its still gonna equal the same thing. so i say it doesnt do anything except prevent the engine from moving too much so the vibration goes elsewhere other then the engine.
this is the first law in thermodynamics, otherwise known as conservation of energy
the sum of the total change in energy equals zero
now for those of you who just can't read english heres the equation
Σ ∆E=0
so my take on the whole engine mounts transfering torque and whatnot, its still gonna equal the same thing. so i say it doesnt do anything except prevent the engine from moving too much so the vibration goes elsewhere other then the engine.
I'm with capn, the energy is going to be transfered to the driveline no matter what type of mount is used. Rubber mounts soften the delievery of the energy and that is why people believe that going to solid mounts transfers more torque to the wheels. You don't want to run just one solid mount either, it will make the car vibrate like crazy. I'm a bit partial to the MMR engine mounts, but I might be a little biased.
I'm running Mazdaspeed racing mounts (stiffer poly than stock) and I can't tell the difference from feel but they are not nearly as pliable when I was changing them, however I wasn't comparing new to new mounts; I was comparing new to 15 year old ones. At $40/set it's a cheap alternative to replacing stock bushings with something better.
Wouldn't want to put in solid mounts however, as I don't want my hand vibrating from the additional energy being transmitted through the driveline. Yes I do agree that energy is going to be transferred regardless, the malability of the material is going to dictate how much of that energy is absorbed at the mount vs. transmitting it down the line through the trans system.
Wouldn't want to put in solid mounts however, as I don't want my hand vibrating from the additional energy being transmitted through the driveline. Yes I do agree that energy is going to be transferred regardless, the malability of the material is going to dictate how much of that energy is absorbed at the mount vs. transmitting it down the line through the trans system.
Originally Posted by capn
id like to see you post something a bit more convincing
i dont think there will be a dramatic difference in power
i had mushy stock mounts. they were gone. the engine would flop around during start up.
when i revmatch downshift, i had to double tap the throttle. once to pre-torque the engine, and once to actually rev match. when i put in the nismo hard rubber it was 10x. i revmatch like a normal person now.
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