So you drive a TII and your boost sensor takes a crap on you....
08-31-06, 01:42 AM
#3
From what I understand the boost sensor controls timing advance/retard and not fuel delivery. It can induce fuel cut because it's readings are used by the computer to determine that, as well, but as far as fuel volume calculation, the AFM, TPS, and water thermosensor do all the work.
From what I understand...I have never delved way into stock EFI with a scope or anything, but my own observations over time back this up.
From what I understand...I have never delved way into stock EFI with a scope or anything, but my own observations over time back this up.
08-31-06, 03:35 AM
#4
I'm a boost creep...
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If the sensor dies the ECU will ignore it and default to a setting equivalent to ~4psi boost.
How do you know this has happened? Have you checked for ECU error codes?
How do you know this has happened? Have you checked for ECU error codes?
08-31-06, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
If the sensor dies the ECU will ignore it and default to a setting equivalent to ~4psi boost.
How do you know this has happened? Have you checked for ECU error codes?
How do you know this has happened? Have you checked for ECU error codes?
My car has a pretty noticable hesitation/misfire/somethingorother anywhere between 2-4k RPM, but as soon as I get about 4k it seems like the problem just goes away. So Im not really sure. I was thinking boost sensor or TPS at first.
08-31-06, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Mindspin311
Im not 100% sure its the boost sensor, just a theory.
My car has a pretty noticable hesitation/misfire/somethingorother anywhere between 2-4k RPM, but as soon as I get about 4k it seems like the problem just goes away. So Im not really sure. I was thinking boost sensor or TPS at first.
My car has a pretty noticable hesitation/misfire/somethingorother anywhere between 2-4k RPM, but as soon as I get about 4k it seems like the problem just goes away. So Im not really sure. I was thinking boost sensor or TPS at first.
If it (the hesitation) goes away,you might try a orifice in that vacuum line and try it again with the vacuum line back on the boost sensor.
And while we're here, tell us what happens with your boost GAUGE (factory) when you go into boost. Does it move at all???? Any movement at all?????? NO movement means you have a problem with the boost sensor output not only to the gauge but to the ECU too. The signal to the ECU matters.
Last edited by HAILERS; 08-31-06 at 10:29 AM.
08-31-06, 11:06 AM
#7
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What should the signal to ECU look like at idle, 0 and ~5psi? Might add that to my list of things to tap into the ecu to watch and solve my hesitation issue too.
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08-31-06, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
Go to the boost sensor and pull its vacuum line off. Plug that line. Then go for a ride and try to duplicate what you've been seeing.
If it (the hesitation) goes away,you might try a orifice in that vacuum line and try it again with the vacuum line back on the boost sensor.
And while we're here, tell us what happens with your boost GAUGE (factory) when you go into boost. Does it move at all???? Any movement at all?????? NO movement means you have a problem with the boost sensor output not only to the gauge but to the ECU too. The signal to the ECU matters.
If it (the hesitation) goes away,you might try a orifice in that vacuum line and try it again with the vacuum line back on the boost sensor.
And while we're here, tell us what happens with your boost GAUGE (factory) when you go into boost. Does it move at all???? Any movement at all?????? NO movement means you have a problem with the boost sensor output not only to the gauge but to the ECU too. The signal to the ECU matters.
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