Not all aftermarket is garbage.

AFAIK, Mazda does not make water pumps. So that means they used a reputable company (maybe Koyo would be one of my guesses), with enough experience (design/mfg.), that they felt were good enough. Price was a consideration, of course, but they wouldn't have just chosen the cheapest supplier.

We all know plenty of brands that are sold as aftermarket, but that you can get in a Mazda box.

Also, I find that lots of people on the forums like to criticize reman/rebuilt parts. They're not all bad. Half the time (not saying this is your case), they find out there was a different cause. They replace a starter or alternator, let's say, and blame the part when the original problem remains.

Also, to address the Techs/Builders/Engineers debacle, I think there's not enough respect between each other. They all have valuable knowledge. But often they try to step on each others' toes and people get offended.

I think Impeller design is always a compromise, but certain minimums have to be met. Flow and efficiency and cost will vary.

Aftermarket companies wish to have a design that works (i.e. not all being returned after a day). Most that have a good reputation want to keep that reputation. They would most likely get an OEM pump and test out flow at various RPM's, and see how much drag spinning the pump places on the engine.

You said the pump says it's more efficient, but haven't proven if it flows a certain minimum amount. It is very possible you got a pump that is inferior to the stock, but that would be fine in a system where all the other parts are performing well. It may be (as mentioned) that the particular company in question just used the same impeller as on another model.

Getting back on topic, I'm just saying not all aftermarket is bad.

What brand pump did you get?

 

Cardone. I've used their pumps on other vehicles in the past out of desperation and been fine, but never a rotary. Won't do that again lol

I feel a little silly for quibbling over ten degrees, but my FC is my baby.

 

I had actually checked what pumps rockauto carried after reading this thread, and Cardone was the one I'd go from the list shown there.

I get what you mean. Ten degrees is ten degrees. Any pump should perform at least to a minimum standard.

Maybe consider changing the thermostat. If the new pump is not as good as the original, maybe if your thermostat isn't opening completely, now it's making a difference?

 

I've used the "new" design pumps, the ones with the stamped steel style impeller. So far I have never personally had a problem. Although, I don't have a data stream or anything to look at...Maybe you could find a machine shop that can "rebuild" your OE style pump?

 

This is beyond too complicated. Put the pump on, get a temp gauge of decent quality and record your operating temperature. You will then have data that will pull you out of this rabbit hole. What kind of efficiency difference are we talking about and is it worth one's time to worry about it? I'd say probably not but if you had a good temp gauge you will witness the difference or you'll see that it's the same and you've been wasting all of this time worrying about the quality of aftermarket parts.

It's like someone said in this thread -these parts have to meet a certain standard to be put on the shelf but like everything else you get what you pay for. Don't go too cheap on the water pump -it's too important.

 

Lose the attitude.

I have three references for temperature.
Factory gauge.
Rtek datalog via a recent temp sensor.
Aftermarket electronic water temp gauge.

The higher coolant temps are verified.

Some of you need to chill the frak out.

 

Ok, so what are the differences in temperature? 10degrees?

(I feel a little silly for quibbling over ten degrees)

 

Yep, an average of 10 degrees warmer.

And yep, it is a little silly to quibble about a ten degree difference... in *most* cases.. But this is a rotary, and that ten degrees matters a bit more. Clearly you did not read the entire statement before you quoted it. If you aren't going to be helpful, you'd do right to say nothing at all. It has already been determined and I have decided to seek out an OEM pump to replace the aftermarket one I installed. This will guarantee the expected performance.

So, just how are you contributing to this thread at this late stage...?

 

Have you called Mazda for the part? N326-15-100C is still available.

 

When I called my Mazda dealer, I was told that the part was NLA and had been for some time, with no other dealer in the region showing stock for new or reman.

 

Just a thought... you could adapt an OE pump from another series of 13b or a 12a assuming one of them is available. You may need to swap the water pump housing or drill/fill mounting stud holes for fitment.