And Ive been reading this http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/rewire.htm but I don't have the same relay or can't find the relay he's talkin about I kno it's pics of a s5 and I have a s4 turbo so idk I'd that makes any difference ?

 

[QUOTE=boostkeepsmesane7;10706698]And Ive been reading this http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/rewire.htm but I don't have the same relay or can't find the relay he's talkin about I kno it's pics of a s5 and I have a s4 turbo so idk If hat makes any difference ?

 

Here's a link to one of my threads when I rewired my S4 turbo, some good diagrams and links.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=789895

 

I used this diagram to rewire mine. (It's less than half way down.)

---> https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...el+pump+rewire

 

GreenBudd, I noticed in your link that arghx tells you to just eliminate the fuel pump resistor relay altogether... I didn't know this could be done. When you guys say; E to F and A to B... Do you mean E is jumped to F and A is jumped to B? Literally putting these wires together? I think you may have use the term "pigtailed".

 

Yes you can remove it and yes we mean tying the wires together, jumping them, splicing them, pigtailing.

You will notice an increase in fuel flow at idle, AFRs will be very rich as the pump now gets the full 12V even at idle. I trimmed some fuel in vacuum in the Rtek fuel tables to bring the AFRs back into range at idle and low load.

 

That 1300cc writeup is very thorough and pretty self explanatory. If you can't follow it, you may want to reconsider doing this mod yourself.

 

Cool. I didn't know that... I appreciate it GreenBudd. Sorry, OP. Hope your rewire goes well with the information provided.

 

It sounds simple and I have the relay just there's no resistor box just a relay but also it is a n/a car with a turbo II swap

 

My chassis is also N/A. So, I don't have a fuel pump resistor relay. I thought you guys were referring to the solenoid resistor. Nevermind... Got a bit mixed up.

 

Ya I saw that one that seems super simple but idk if it would work on a TII

 

Works on my TII swap.

 

Alright cool ima just do it that way because I think I have a n/a wiring harness because I can't find the relay resistor pack.

 

Where can I find a wire with a inline fuse in it. I was just gonna buy a cheap amp wire kit from walmart it comes with a 12 g power wire but comes with a 100 amp fuse and the smallest one I could find was 50 amp fuse would that still work or would autozone have a 30 amp one?

 

Series four non turbo cars did not have the fuel pump resistor/relay package behind the right hand headlight assy (bolted to that general area on the bulkhead).

If you NEVER use your rear window defroster or if it does not work and is broken..............there is a very good source of power for the fuel pump on the relay for the rear window defroster. That relay is located in the area of where the jack gets clamped down.

In that relay elect plug is a large WHITE wire that has power on it 24/7 and has a circuit breaker protecting it. That circuit breaker is on the top row of the interior fuse box. To reset that CB you just press in a red colored button on it (memory tells me that).

So you could depin that white wire and use it for a source of power and that white wire would go to a new relay your installing for control of the fuel pump.

In other words no need to run a length of wire from the engine bay to the rear of the car since a large gauge wire already exists back there............as long as you never use your rear window defroster.

 

Alright cool thanks man sounds pretty easy I was wondering wat relay that was. I'll check it out because hopefully I won't be driving my fc in the winter but I might have to for a lil bit . Lol hopefully I even get to drive it before the winter this thing hates me nothin ever wants to work lol