nope... not even going to try and make 300hp on the stock ecu. Just trying to get it running good with stock power. Then maybe an afc, pump, and injectors.

 

Well, then that's a different story...

I mentioned using the stock FC turbo ECU cause I know people don't have the money to do a full conversion.
It will do in a pinch, but don't expect a little more than the stock rated ~200hp to be produced.
If you're going to try pushing over 300hp, I'd recommend to get a stand-alone EMS.


-Ted

 

so like i said why is it any harder than a 13bt swap besides getting mounts for the engine?

 

Does the 13B-RE have the same twins as the 13B-REW? Wouldn't the s5 turbo be a downgrade?

 

what's the point of an re if your goal is stock power levels? Why not swap in a stock engine, which'll be much easier?

 

more potential in the long run.

 

what are you aiming for eventually? 13bt can run up to 400HP just with a hybrid.

 

Good to know -- thanks for the insight!

 

driftin, I think it was mentioned before -- the actual swap is not that hard. You're right, it's essentially a bolt-in, right? Custom motor mounts or buy from someone already making them, custom downpipe, the TII ecu will work (to a point). It bolts right to the TII tranny, so no major drivetrain adjustments needed there.

Pretty easy... right? I think it's like the 80-20 rule. 80% of the work is in 20% of the details. The little details and fab work is what makes this swap a pain. I'm not saying don't do it -- I think it's a cool swap, but it's not like you're going to just drop this in on a weekend unless you have all of your custom work already done and you know that everything already fits and you're electrical work is done, etc. etc. etc.

What are you going to do for an IC? FMIC? Custom piping. No big deal there, but are you using the stock RE intake? It has a long runner, so you will need to adapt to that or cut it off or do something there. Still no big deal, but it's part of those details.

Some connections are different (CAS, TPS), so a little electrical work will be in order.

BOV? Wastegate? If you're going to run the stock twins, you're going to use the stock components here. Something to think about.

Sticking w/ stock injectors I'd assume too? Need an FPR? What about fuel lines? They're not going to just snap in...

Got the engine out, make sure you clean up the engine bay, good time for a fresh coat of paint. Remove all the un-needed parts from the bay or the RE (emissions) etc. Clean the new engine, paint it too.

Again, the bulk of the major tasks are easy and straightforward, it's those little things that are a pain and those are the things that take the most time. Cleaning, organizing, painting, break a bolt here or there, rusted parts, etc.

I'd still do the swap though.

 

im not so sure about that when you switch to a big single turbo. it might fall right above t2 and below FD.

 

thanx trav you put it into perspective a bit more. do you know of any sites that detail how and what to do with the cas and tps. Have you done the swap yourself or seen it done by a friend? also what afm do i use for the swap? TII? also what is the diff. between an s4 and s5 TII flywheel?

 

13B-RE's were all automatic transmissions.
If you got the rear counterweight, it makes it easy - just get a lightened flywheel.
If you don't have the rear counterweight, you can either go S5 or FD stock flywheel OR S5 / FD rear counterweight + lightened flywheel.

Cosmo TPS has to be "repinned" for a stock S5 FC turbo ECU to use.

Downpipe (adapter) needs to be fabricated.

Intake pipe needs to be modified to clear the hood.

FMIC is required.

You already know the oil cooler lines need to be custom made - at least the rear one is different; the front one is the same as the FC stock one.

Can't confirm if the E-OMP plugs in - we throw those things away and pre-mix.

It's next to impossible to replace that serpentine belt - we could never find a replacement very easily in the U.S.

Good luck replacing ANY of the Cosmo unique items - i.e. water pump - Mazda does not stock them in the U.S.

I believe the upper rad hose connection is different versus the FC 13BT.

That's off the top of my head...


-Ted

 

well that answers that. guess im going 13bt prob. cheaper to swap in anyways. ill just rebuild it with the money i saved.
Thanx for the help guys.

 

if you cut it where you can make a stright shot from the intake pipe, to the hole infront of the batt to make a fmic, it clears no prob, i relocated my leading coil to help the process


Im using both stock oil cooler lines, the rear one just needs to be streched a little


no idea.. going to have to do something though for the s5 ecu though

 

I'm talking about the other intake charge pipe on the other side coming off the twin turbos. :P


I don't recommend stretching SS AN lines. :P


-Ted

 

Definitely not trying to talk you out of it.. I think it's a cool swap and will one day finally finish mine.

However, it's w/o question cheaper, faster, & easier to do a regular 13bt swap. So if any of those are a major factor, you'll do well to get the 13bt.