So I got a cheap FC for a nice little project. Its an 86' N/A.

Heres whats wrong with it, any help would be wonderful as I am a Nissan guy :p Keep in mind that I did search, but nothing was definite. I hear these cars have quite a few electrical problems. Is this true?

1.) It runs VERY rich, floods very easy. It doesn't burn anything, it seems to run fairly well so I think the motor is still good, but what do I know Will replacing the injectors O-Rings fix this? I know my 240SX had this problem with injector number 4, so I went ahead and ordered new o-rings. Unfortuantly it looks as though they are top feed, and that won't cause a problem. The injectors on the red rail, pasenger side, lower motor. Are they primary or secondary?

2.) It won't rev past 3700RPM. Bad ground or secondaires? I can open the left actuator by hand, and it doesn't feel stiff, the right is kind of hard to reach. How do I clean them? Do I clean the actuators, or the secondaires? How do I remove the secondaires? What if I stick them open all the time? They are extra exhaust ports? So what will it affect? Low end torque?

3.) The shifter. Previous owner installed a lighted shift ****. He didn't put it together right. Basically I have the shift lever, ****, and leather boot. No bushings whatsoever, where can I get a complete kit for under $100? Including the rubber boot, and everything?

4.) Idle, it idles fairly rough, but doesn't start.

5.) Head light motors only work when they want to.

 

To be honest, I'm pretty new to FC's. However unless I am mistaken the following website is a place that you can get the shifter bushings and rubbers boots for around 100 dollars or so.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/g4.htm

 

#1 check your Thermosensor and O2 sensor.... also could be low compression... how many miles ya got on it?

#2 Your secondary injectors arent coming on... could be ground problems. Dont remove them or anything till you find out for sure.

#3 for bushings go to your local mazda dealership... otherwise www.mazdatrix.com should have what you need.

#4 Idles ruff but wont start??? how do you know it idles ruff then??

#5 Dunno... check wiring... may need a new motor

 

Wouldn't bad sensors throw a code?

What about the O-rings? Will they cause a fuel leak INTO the motor? Or just outside on the rail.

I'm calling MazdaTrix later today.

Should have been more specific, I can get it to start. I have to pull the EGI fuse and crank it, then start it. But it shouldn't flood after its been warme dup. I drive it 30 miles to work, when I goto leave 8 hours later, its flooded. The Temp gauge gets about 2-3MM above the first line, so I guess its never warming up. What is normal on the temp gauge?

The previous owner supplied me with new motors, brackets, arms, and a new Logicon.

 

what you need to do is a full tuneup. New plugs/ wires, oil change, coolant flush (possibly change thermostat), and make sure all adjustments are properly made (tps, bac, and idle screws), fuel filter.

Then you want to do some grounding. Read the grounding posts, but really you need to reground the ecu, there are 4 grounds I beleive, Reground them and your 3800 rpm hesitation should go away.

That should allow the car to start and idle fine. As for leaky injectors, pour a little water over them with the car on to see if there are any bubbles, if not no leak, if so change the O rings. Also while you are there might as well check the pulsation dampener.


normal on the temp guage for an s4 is about 1/3 of the way up, but they are not very reliable, get a new water temp guage when you can.

If flooding continues after tune up, you can wire in a fuel cut off switch as a last resort. Make sure first that all the vacuum lines and solenoids are correctly hooked up.

As for the headlight, look for a used one, buy and sells and wreckers. Check wiring first though.

for the shifter bushing, find a nice brass or metal ring that is a little big and notch it so it can be shaped a little, It will be the cheapest best shifter bushing you ever felt, way more tight than any plastic bushings and lasts forever.

 

Leaking injectors won't cause a rich condtion, or flooding right?

 

Well, on my first engine (S4 N/A) I had a flooding problem, contantly needed to use my fuel cut switch. Injectors O-rings were leaking so I changed them and BANG, no more flooding I guess it was so bad that gas from the residual pressure in the fuel rail was pouring into my intake.

 

Oh yes, leaky injectors will definitely cause flooding.

One of my TIIs has horribly leaky injectors and the car floods like a bitch...have to use the fuel cut switch all the time unless the car sits for 30-45 miuntes in between cranks.

The o-ring replacement sounds like a good idea. I never did venture into fixing the problem yet.

 

Thanks alot guys. I will goto the auto parts store and get a new TPS, O2, and basic tune up gear. How much will all of this cost me?