So close yet so very very far
Passenger
Posts: n/a
So close yet so very very far
My ongoing idle problem continues - Here is riddle for you rex gurus.
Here is what I have done/tested:
I adjusted the TPS to 1K
tested the BAC its at 11.3 the ECU is sending 7.6 at idle (checking with a 1/4w 10K resistor at the plug from the ECU) it clicks when when I hit it with 12volts. It has been pulled and cleaned, but does not lower the idle when I pull the plug.
Compression test good - according to my local shop
New plugs, good wires, new fuel filter/air filter, O2 sensor
Tried a used BAC - it sucked worse than mine
No error codes from ECU
I have bumped up the idle from the BAC so it won't die (and it never dies at idle - just makes me think its going to)
I still have problems with idle 500-600 & rough when the car is warm and Im using the brakes or the lights on or wheel turned ect. also if the headlights are on at idle (when warm or cold) the idle bounces from 500 to 1000 rpm but it doesnt surge at any other time. The only time that it idles correctly when warm, is if I have the AC on (thats ON) wish the AC worked but thats a dfferent problem - or if the car is cold - then it runs and idles perfectly until it warms up. So if the BAC is bad then why would the the car idle up with the AC on? Isnt that changed by the BAC valve?
Except for lousy gas milage (11-12 mpg round town) the rare hot starting problem and the fact that its an auto the car runs fine. So excluding dropping $500 bones with shipping for a new BAC What do I try next!!??! Sorry for long post
Here is what I have done/tested:
I adjusted the TPS to 1K
tested the BAC its at 11.3 the ECU is sending 7.6 at idle (checking with a 1/4w 10K resistor at the plug from the ECU) it clicks when when I hit it with 12volts. It has been pulled and cleaned, but does not lower the idle when I pull the plug.
Compression test good - according to my local shop
New plugs, good wires, new fuel filter/air filter, O2 sensor
Tried a used BAC - it sucked worse than mine
No error codes from ECU
I have bumped up the idle from the BAC so it won't die (and it never dies at idle - just makes me think its going to)
I still have problems with idle 500-600 & rough when the car is warm and Im using the brakes or the lights on or wheel turned ect. also if the headlights are on at idle (when warm or cold) the idle bounces from 500 to 1000 rpm but it doesnt surge at any other time. The only time that it idles correctly when warm, is if I have the AC on (thats ON) wish the AC worked but thats a dfferent problem - or if the car is cold - then it runs and idles perfectly until it warms up. So if the BAC is bad then why would the the car idle up with the AC on? Isnt that changed by the BAC valve?
Except for lousy gas milage (11-12 mpg round town) the rare hot starting problem and the fact that its an auto the car runs fine. So excluding dropping $500 bones with shipping for a new BAC What do I try next!!??! Sorry for long post
all i can say is check to make sure everything is tight, intake bolts, no intake leaks, all vacuum lines are on right. i hear ya on the 11-12mpg thing, my manual gets around 24 in town and 29 on the highway, the auto only gets like 11-12 in town, maybe 20 if im really lucky on the highway, what is it with the auto's??
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,594
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
check the battery and the alternator, or better yet take it to pep-boys or advanced auto or wherever and have them check it with thier goofy machine. I had a shorted out battery that did that same thing to mine. If your battery goes dead more than maybe five or ten times the plates inside the battery will warp and if they touch each other they will short. The car will still run, just not good. Your situation is exactly what mine was and it was just a bad battery. So check it out and maybe you'll get lucky and fix it for 50 bucks. If not, good luck.
Passenger
Posts: n/a
Thanks for the replies -
I actually replaced the battery 3 months ago, and it did solve a number of problems, also I used an entire can or carb cleaner trying to find vacuum leaks - the alternator puts out 14v at 1100 rpm but I haven't checked it at a low idle or with accesories on - I'll give that a shot next.
I actually replaced the battery 3 months ago, and it did solve a number of problems, also I used an entire can or carb cleaner trying to find vacuum leaks - the alternator puts out 14v at 1100 rpm but I haven't checked it at a low idle or with accesories on - I'll give that a shot next.
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Warm the engine up and then do a compression check. What your checking for is to see if the front rotor and the back rotor are withing five or so psi of each other. If the variance is more than say 15 psi, that is your problem. Also, have you set your idle with the initial set jumper in place prior to setting the idle. Makes all the difference in the world if you did not. That last piece of advice is copied from Irv, Keiths dad.
Passenger
Posts: n/a
Ok i found the post about using the intial set connector but I have three questions - 1) my car has two sets of connectors - two single wire connectors and two six wire connectors one set is blue and one is green. The hanes manual says to ground the green wire on the six pin connector - the only green wire (it has an orange stripe) is on the single single blue connector. Which one is it? they are all right behind the battery.
Second I cant turn the allen head screw on the BAC valve to save my life - I assume the one Im supposed to turn is on the front of the valve- right? Not the big black one on the back.
And now i have a error 32 - a soleniod valve switching - WTF is that?
Second I cant turn the allen head screw on the BAC valve to save my life - I assume the one Im supposed to turn is on the front of the valve- right? Not the big black one on the back.
And now i have a error 32 - a soleniod valve switching - WTF is that?
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
From: Montgomery, Al.
Pull the throttle body and make sure all the linkages are adjusted.
Also, make sure the thermovalve system is working properly. If that's fucked up no amount of TPS adjustment is going to help because you'll never be able to set it where it needs to be.
I fixed the fucked up thermovalve problem on my car by unhooking the spring on the fast idle roller linkage and wired it back with twist ties to keep it out of the way. Then I adjusted everything and it's idling fine now. Not perfect, but it no longer surges like it did because I was able to get a decent TPS adjustment in.
Also, make sure the thermovalve system is working properly. If that's fucked up no amount of TPS adjustment is going to help because you'll never be able to set it where it needs to be.
I fixed the fucked up thermovalve problem on my car by unhooking the spring on the fast idle roller linkage and wired it back with twist ties to keep it out of the way. Then I adjusted everything and it's idling fine now. Not perfect, but it no longer surges like it did because I was able to get a decent TPS adjustment in.
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