smog test
#1
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smog test
hello guy i been searching around about what is in fact need it for a smog check. all i could find was emissions delete info im actually trying to pass smog legally what parts do i need for a s5 t2 jdm engine besides smog pump , acv , tune up , new 454 chevy truck cat.
any help will be highly appreciated thank you
any help will be highly appreciated thank you
#2
Sharp Claws
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smog pump
ACV
rat's nest (solenoids for functionality, though you might squeak by without it)
precat(most techs won't notice if it's missing)
main cat 3 way cat with air inlet
stock airbox or a CARB legal intake with CARB sticker
the engine also needs to be timed properly
the engine also has to be running well, maintenance done, no hacked up crossed wires from the install, no vacuum leaks, no major exhaust leaks, TPS adjusted, fuel pressure within spec(a walbro may kill you here), etc, etc, etc.
if it smells awful standing behind the car when it is fully warmed up then you won't pass. even if you can smell a hint of unburnt fuel at the back of the car you won't pass. when i do my own testing i sniff the exhaust from a few feet back, any nose burning or eye watering at all you fail(saves you a test and possible gross polluter).
a clean car smells like hot air with a hint of rotten eggs.
ACV
rat's nest (solenoids for functionality, though you might squeak by without it)
precat(most techs won't notice if it's missing)
main cat 3 way cat with air inlet
stock airbox or a CARB legal intake with CARB sticker
the engine also needs to be timed properly
the engine also has to be running well, maintenance done, no hacked up crossed wires from the install, no vacuum leaks, no major exhaust leaks, TPS adjusted, fuel pressure within spec(a walbro may kill you here), etc, etc, etc.
if it smells awful standing behind the car when it is fully warmed up then you won't pass. even if you can smell a hint of unburnt fuel at the back of the car you won't pass. when i do my own testing i sniff the exhaust from a few feet back, any nose burning or eye watering at all you fail(saves you a test and possible gross polluter).
a clean car smells like hot air with a hint of rotten eggs.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 02-12-13 at 12:57 PM.
#3
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you need the relief and switching solenoids to be working, the default position on the ACV is relief, and its needs to be port air for the test.
#4
10th Mazda - 10th A.E.
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My car, first of all, has a stock based ECM, ACV and ALL the little stock solenoids and spaghetti hoses and stuff. It has an air pump with a little K&N filter because I am using a Power Flow re-usable foam filter with all my other HKS stuff. I have a blow off valve and I do not use the stock air box. I also have a front mounted intercooler. I have aftermarket cats built into a large diameter after market downpipe, high flow pre-cat and high flow main cat. My engine has a mild street port and idles at stock 750 RPM and 17-18 in of vacuum. It was de-smogged from Dec '88 to Sept '97, when all of this stuff had to be located and installed along with a slightly smaller T04E turbo rather than the T04B that was installed in its de-smogged configuration. It has passed everytime except the last time, when I had to replace the cats.
Last edited by Wms10th; 02-13-13 at 12:10 AM. Reason: spelling
#5
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Thank you guys for all the info now I just need to gather the right parts anybody out there have this parts ill buying them all lol thank you in advance guys.
Regarding fuel pressure would a fd pump will do fine or I have to put back a t2 one
Regarding fuel pressure would a fd pump will do fine or I have to put back a t2 one
#7
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