Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Mitch if it is a NA (non Turbo) here is what I would do if I had to drive it home.


Get the drivshaft fixed/replaced.
4 new tires
Change oil (20-50 Castrol)
New belts
New hoses
New plugs
New fuel filter
New air filter
New thermostat
New 50/50 mix
Check timing
Run some Lucas injector cleaner in it
Change/check wheel bearings
Check brakes / Bleed old fliud out


And keep in extra parts and tools in the car:
Old belts
Old hoses
Big bottle of brake fliud (car sitting that long will start leaking one day)
Extra Oil
Extra water
Good working jack
Jack stand
Make sure spare is good

And over all make sure you have some cash on you and a good cell phone.

It would be best to just have it towed home.

VortecBowtie

ok I'll check out the sensors here in a mintue when I go stick most of the new parts on her.

also, I was wondering about the type of oil, I'm strictly Castrol but NON synthetic... So 20w-50 is what I need to run in a N/A? I heard 10w-30 before. Also I bought the good stuff for a fuel injector cleaner, (BG) and I'm picking up a gallon of 110 UN-leaded tomorrow to mix in with a full tank of 91. I would run Leaded but I don't know how rotarys do, first off with that and also because it still has cats... I'll save the Leaded for my truck back home lol.


I have done everything on you list except the lower hose and belts which seem fine but I will have spares in the car with me incase.


ON A SIDE NOTE:
I have heard threads on various websites about a premix fuel. Are you guys talking about adding a lubricant to the fuel? I was thinkin of adding a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil to the tank.

I'm about to go install the hoses and drive shaft, already have the filters in. I pulled the EGI relay so I don't pump more gas in there when I squirt a bit of tranny fluid in there.

O well, if you guys have any more advice let me know. I'm set on driving this home and pretty sure everything will be in working order. However, I will test drive it all day tomorrow, and once hard (already have a race with an old SCCA retired porsche 911 . To make sure just cruising home it will be fine.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The factory owners manual recommends 5/30 or 10/30w.

I ran 10/30 on my 3300 mile vacation trip last month and all was well.

No point in running anything other than 87 octane unleaded fuel.

VortecBowtie

ok, thanks man, you've been a big help. So have you other guys also. I got all the filters changed, hoses replaced, driveshaft and exhaust installed, now I'm just waiting on the leading plugs to arive. Hopefully tomorrow morning at 10, but they did say 2 this afternoon

I'll let you guys know how it goes after i start it up and/or drive it around. I soaked the rotor walls ( don't know the actual name) with ATF today so it should have a good seal to help the 'CR' and should fire with the new plugs!

Oni

I like this thread, very interesting, I hope all goes well for you man!

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Yes, that is for a new car as well.
With our car naturally burning oil and as they get older I have always ran 20-50 castrol and never had an issue nor does it burn as much oil. And on a long road trip and in this heat I would only run 20-50. Now if you live where it gets cold, I would run 10-40 in the winter.

I also agree no need to run anything but 87 octane fuel, save that money.

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Make sure to manually turn the motor over a few times if you have not already done that.

13bturbofc

iTrader: (4)

i would also put a new waterpump and alternator and battery of course

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I admit I was hesitant to switch to the lighter weight oil (this was upon the recommendation of my mechanic- previously I used 20/50) but suffered no ill effects from doing so.
She burned just over a quart in 3300 miles- and this engine has close to 175K on it.
Ambient temps were similar (if not hotter) than they are today, high 90's.

@VortecBowtie...
No matter what weight oil you use I would definitely recommend adding a can of BG M.O.A. with it.
The day I first used it was the last day my car laid down any smoke haze (which it used to do randomly but heavily).

Also had very good results from Seafoaming the intake tract- suck it in through the brake booster vacuum line while revving the car to @2500rpm.

VortecBowtie

The motor has been turned over, gave it an ATF bath last night. I guess I'll just go with either 10w-30 or 40. If it seems like it's burning a bit I'll go 20w-50 when I change it when I get home. I don't think I'll add anything in with the oil just yet. I want to see if I even need to, or if I'll be doing it as a precaution.


When I get home I'm going to hook up the "injector cleaning machine thing" up to it and make her run off of straight BG cleaner

But thanks for the last post. I was wondering if seafoam was ok on rotarys! Just same procedure as it would be on a stroker? booster line,half a can at almost dieing idle, then shut off, let set, then start up and same thing again with the other half of the can?

johnmasters

As far as the Pre-mix: You want to use some type of 2-stroke, marine oil that has TCW3. 1/2-1oz per gallon of gasoline.

You may want to go ahead and do that lower radiator hose because that would be a real PITA on the side of the road. I had to take my air pump out to get to it.

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

As you can tell your getting alot of good info for everyone. I really would really be nervous driving that long on anything I have not driven befor much less something sitting that long. I will say one other thing I would change is the tranny and rear end gear lube, but atleast make sure to check it.

Good luck on the run, and keep us posted.
I hope your not getting this 100-103 degree heat we are.

Chad

VortecBowtie

/\ I wish it was that cool....


I drove 11-12 hours today from Co. to west Tx. I'll drive home tomorrow about mid morning, another 6 hours to go... I love this car though, I really had to wind it up in the hills through new mexico and colorado. But, on highway and cruising it was awesome, I love how everything is laid out. I got an oil change before I left...(watched the guy the whole time, literally 2 feet away lol) I gave him a tip just for me standin around him. All the fluids were fine. I only had to add just a tad of clutch fluid and coolant. I checked the fluids in every big city I got to ( roughly every 2 hours). Nothing has changed. Oil is exactly where it was when I left.

The car is running nice and cool not hot, cept for the interrior (no A/C). However, do you guys sometimes get a smell in the interrior like something is hot? My whole center console feels pretty warm but also the dash so I figured it was just the sun beating on it along with the cats being right under that center console.


I'm also getting 25 (+/- 1) Gallons to a Mile that sound about right?

When I get home tomorrow I'm resting.... But Friday I'll go up to my shop and change the diff fluid, tranny fluid, oil, flush power steering, run the enjector cleaner drip line through her, etc.... And possibly the blinker fluid.....


PS: Is there any o2 sensor simulator on the market to where I can ditch my cats for a straight pipe and the engine light wont come on>? Or will it even come on if I straight pipe the cats but leave the stock muffs and header?


Thanks again guys!
I'm lovin these FC's

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Your mileage is exactly the same as mine on the highway and conforms to Mazda's projections as well, so that's looking good.

The smell could just be the car airing itself out after such a prolonged period of sitting...?

Your O2 sensor is located in the manifold so dropping the cats won't even touch it.

Congrats.

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Yep what ^ he said.

As for exhaust or dropping your cats I would go to racingbeat.com.
They make a cat replacement pipe that has a silencer in it. This way you can gain the HP from the cat being gone but you will not get the loud exhaust noise.
My first 7 was a 86 FC, RB header, open exhaust all the way back to two Monza tips where the mufflers were. Let me tell ya, no need for a radio, but driving from FL to TN I had to use ear plugs! Never again.

Also RB exhaust is one of the only exhaust that last on our high heat producing cars.

Glad everything is working out well, good luck the rest of the way.
CHad

VortecBowtie

Well I made it the rest of the way. I made the 6 hour drive in 4 hours and 45 minutes lol. Now for the want of more power lol. I have another thread in this same catagory now.

I really appriciate all of the help guys

kontakt

Great to hear you and your rex made it in one piece!!

Did you happen to note what kind of fuel mileage you got? You may have mentioned it and I missed it.

Edit: 25... searched page for "mpg" but you had to go and spell it out.