K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

Yep, polarity makes no difference.

959595rotor

You may be barking up the wrong tree, the engine management computer gets its signal from the magnetic pulses from the Distributer(crank fire ) you may have the wrong Dist installed in your car,if so it will not run properly Is it a S4 or a S5 they are wired different even though they look the same ,or you may have a broken( magnetic pickup )wire inside the Dist (been there ),also to test the engine compression remove the lower air valve on the compression tester,then remove either both lead or trailing plugs remove the power wires from the coils, turn overthe engine and watch for compression readings If they are really 65lbs,each,and they do not go up,and you have tied to lube the seals,and remove the carbon by spraying the rotors with a Sea foam, .............or Varsol/ATF mix 50/ 50(been using for 30 years)into the spark plug holes.(let sit , up to three days after turning over(coils off ) It may be time for a rebuild.........Rotaries do not like to start with low compression(major flooding).....Good Luck

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

I'm not exactly clear on what the trouble is with OP's car. Did I miss the part about the symptoms OP is getting? OP?

alritzer

OK, this problem has been going on since I bought this 7. It starts easily, within 2-3 seconds. Idles pretty good but it sounds like its running on one rotor and it misses enough to make the engine vibrate. It has no power, its hard to get it moving.

I've changed the CAS, TPS, fuel pump (Walbro), ECU (I'm on 3rd), wires, fuel filter. Timing is dead on, TPS is set to 1v, fuel pressure is OK, it runs on the primary coil alone as good as it does with both. I'm going to swap the wiring tomorrow, maybe.

HAILERS2

Make sure the primary and secondary injector plugs are on right. Other than that it sounds like a bad rotor/seal. Hate to say that and probably shouldn't since I'm not there to see it. Has the traits.

IF the injector plugs are on right you might try swapping the injectors, putting the secondarys in the primary spots just to see if its an injector problem. assuming both primary and secondary are the same cc's.

Basis but has to be said: sparkplug wires on the right plugs? sorry 'bout that.

alritzer

I'll try swapping the injectors, I have several sets.

The wiring harness arrived and so did the clips/connectors so I'm going to changed the injector clips and then swap out the wiring harness. I'll give everything a once over and fire it up. If it runs the same, I'll just prepare to remove the engine and tear it down to see what madness the PO did. He told me that it had 38000 actual miles on it and had recently been rebuilt with 3mm seals and had street ported. Maybe.... but if it doesn't run correctly I can just consider it all lies.

e_deher

i would check to make sure your coils and injectors are in good working order before removing engine dude. check your compression too if you have a tester.

alritzer

Well, the wiring harness arrived and I finally got it swapped over but now I don't have any spark. I checked and I have power from the main relay to the ECU.
That's as far as I've gotten. I'll look at the older posts and see if I can figure anything out.
Maybe I can get a word of wisdom from somebody way more intelligent then me.

I think I'm working backwards.

HAILERS2

Go to the ECU and pull the plugs off.

Ohm out the coils inside the CAS from the ECU plug. Ohm out from 3G to 3H on the plug and then 3H to 3E.

Each should read approx 200 ohms or whatever the FSM Engine Electrical section says. I believe it's 200 to 220 ohms each from memory.

This will prove the wiring b/t the CAS and the ECU is correct.

EDIT: No it's supposed to be 110 to 210 ohms or anywhere inbetween those numbers will be fine.

alritzer

OK, I did and they both check out. So I guess that verifies those two circuits and the CAS.
I was really careful making sure everything was hooked up. Maybe I was sold a defective harness.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Make sure the Black/Yellow wire(s) at the coils have power w/key to on. If not then check the EGI INJ fuse.

alritzer

Thanks Satch, I'll check them in the morning.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Forgot that your car is an S5 so you have no "INJ" fuse found in an S4. Check for voltage on the B/Y wire w/key to on anyway and if that checks out okay then recheck the voltage on the G/Y wire at the coils for the cyclical 0 to 5 volt response as the engine is turned by hand w/key to on.

alritzer

I checked the black/yellow wire and it does show 12 v. The G/Y wire shows continuity from the ECU to the CAS but I haven't checked to see if it is sending the fire signal yet. This is about where I was before I swapped the harness but before it ran, although it ran really bad. If I cant get the fire signal does that point to a bad ECU. I have another ECU but I would hate to fry that one also. I have about $625 in ECUs. It looks like some people are frying their ECU and just selling it to somebody else. NICE but maybe not.

959595rotor

to check out your Ecu open it up and remove the first board lay it over the edge and look at the second board are any of the resisters Burnt(blue now brown) if they are just take the resister code and replace it with a new one (cheap)or remove from scrap Ecu ,and solder in,I think you should check your wiring on your crank fire to see if they are connected,they control the spark,as well as fuel pulses.............................

HAILERS2

Since the ECU is getting power like you said........and the CAS wiring ohm out from the ECU plug thru the CAS reluctors and back proving them good..........pull the elect plug off the boost/pressure sensor and with the key to ON see if there is five volts on the BROWN/WHITE wire or not. IF it's just 1-3vdc not good. That is ref voltage made BY the ECu and it it isn't there in full force of approx 5vdc the ECU is bad OR one of the other sensors that uses the ref voltage is pulling the voltage down. See what YOU have on the brown/white.

blackrotary23

SUBSCRIBED:
i am having the same problem. all of the sensors and the ecu being backprobed checked out ok. it will fire up and run as long as my foot is on the pedal. if it stalls when i let off the pedal, it will not start again. it is getting spark on the trailing coil but not the leading. besides the ecu and cas.what controls spark on the coils? again, all the sensors and relays checked out fine.

alritzer

I checked for reference voltage at the brown/white wire on the boost/pressure sensor and the meter shows less than 1 v. So, I removed that ECU and swapped in another one and it shows the same thing. Before I swapped out the em harness both of the ECUs worked and I had good spark. I just had no power and the motor sounded like it was running on one rotor, but now, I have no spark and evidently, 2 dead ECUs. The newer wiring harness looked to be in good condition. I changed a couple of injector clips but everything else looked good. It would be nice to figure out what happened to the ECUs before I swap in another one.
If anybody knows somebody wanting to sell a N374............ looks like I'm in the market.

ash

alritzer

To get more attention to your post you should start your own thread.
Did your leading coil check out OK? Did you check for a firing signal from the ECU on the green/yellow wire at the leading coil? Did you have your injectors flow tested?

HAILERS2

N374 have a bad history. Beware.

No voltage on the brown/white is bad news. Two ECU doing that is an oddity.

The brown/white feeds ref voltage to : afm, boost sensor, TPS, OMP on a series five, ATP sensor on series four only, variable resistor on early series four,

So what I'm getting at is this. Remove the connectors off all the above items. Then put the key ON and check for voltage once again at the brown/white of any of the sensors just mentioned. IF you now find approx 5vdc, that means one of those sensors is dragging down the ref voltage and you MIGHT be able to figure out which by plugging them in one by one and checking the ref voltage after you reattach each one.

No ref voltage means there's no way on gods green earth the coils/ignitors will fire because they are not going to get the zero to five vdc signal coming and going.

Several things you might try on that car but that is the one that is easyist and less time consuming.

Yep. Might try starting another thread but what I've said just about covers it. No sense looking at coils etc if there is no ref voltage present in the ECU.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The OMP "might" be the root of your problem.

alritzer

The n370 I has the RTek 1.7 with the OMP eliminator chip. The OMP is not plugged in. I'm pretty sure the OMP killed the first ECU.
Unless the newest em harness has been miss wired someplace I can't imagine why both ECUs would now be dead unless they never worked properly to start with.

alritzer

Thanks for the help , I appreciate it. My bf isn't really that mechanical but he can help trouble shoot if I know where to start.

I don't know how much money I should spend trying to get this 7 to run. I've got about $5000 in a 7 that doesn't even run. I'm way past trying to get my money back by parting it out, besides, I wouldn't even know where to start.

thanks again.......... ash

I'll pull the other sensors tomorrow.

alritzer

I unplugged the sensors that use the 5 volt reference. Then I checked for the 5v at the ECU and the meter read 5v. So, then I started plugging the sensors back in. As I plugged the sensors back in I checked for the 5 volts and they all showed 5 v except the boost sensor. So, finally I found that at some point somebody miss wired the boost sensor.

At least the 5 v reference shows. Still won't start.

alritzer

I did finally get the engine to fire up. The entire "no spark" issue was do to the previous owner of the wiring harness messing up the wiring of the boost sensor. Must have been grounding out the entire system.
Once I rewired the sensor and plugged the coil back in, it fired right up. I haven't been able to take it around the block but it sure runs better.
The original problem with the "bad miss" was fixed by replacing the wiring harness and the "no spark" issue was because of the boost sensor plug.

Thanks to everybody that chimed in........ especially to Hailers and Satch.

ashley